October 21, 2025 • 32 mins
Now is the time to be getting our garlic, shallots and even onions planted in some places. If you can give me one good hour in the garden this month, you can set yourself up for big flavor next summer.
Today on Just Grow Something were going to walk through planting garlic and shallots and some tips on where it’s okay to even plant onion sets for a summer harvest. We’ll talk about when to plant for your location, how to prep the bed, which onions and shallots make sense to plant now, troubleshooting and I'll answer your most frequently asked questions about planting these crops. Let’s dig in.
References and Resources
Newsletter sign up: JustGrowSomethingPodcast.com/news
Episode 40: Garlic - https://justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/episode/ep-40-growing-garlic
Episode 133: Growing Onions - https://justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/episode/ep-133-growing-onions
Episode 220 Planting Onions in Fall for a Summer Harvest - https://justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/episode/planting-onions-in-fall-for-a-summer-harvest-ep-220
Episode 221 Tips for Planting Garlic by Climate Type - https://justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/episode/garlic-planting-tips-by-climate-ep-221
YouTube Video for Fall Planted Onions - https://youtu.be/qVv6AgPCvdI
Sprout Mountain Farm fall planting onions - https://www.sproutmountainfarms.com/category/untreated-onion-sets
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
(00:00):
I know many of us are sort of worn out from the summer garden
right now, and fall is just sortof trotting in really slowly in
some spaces, but now is the timeto be getting our garlic, our
shallots, and even onions into the garden in some places.
If you can give me one good hourin the garden this month, you
(00:21):
can absolutely set yourself up for really big flavor next
summer, plus a few bonuses alongthe way.
So today on Just Grow Something,we're going to walk through
planting garlic and shallots andsome tips on where it's OK to
even plant onion sets for a summer harvest.
We'll talk about when to plant for your location, how to prep
(00:42):
the bed, and details about planting, which onions and
shallots make sense to plant now, troubleshooting, and will
answer your most frequently asked questions about these
crops. Let's dig in.
Hey, I'm Karen and what started as a small backyard garden 20
years ago turned into a lifelongpassion for growing food.
Now as a market farmer and horticulturist, I want to help
(01:03):
you do the same. On this podcast, I am your
friend in the garden teaching evidence based techniques to
help you grow your favorites andbuild confidence in your own
garden space. So grab your garden journal and
a cup of coffee and get ready tojust grow something.
Quick reminder, if you are not on my e-mail list, get on that
(01:24):
list by going to justforsomethingpodcast.com/news.
I send out an e-mail each Fridayon one specific topic and I get
the chance to get into some pretty good details about
subjects that maybe don't warrant an entire episode to
themselves. Or sometimes additional details
about a topic that we covered onthe show.
But then, you know, maybe that part got cut in editing or
(01:46):
something. It's also a really easy way for
you to give me suggestions for topics or ask me questions
directly by just replying to those emails.
I read every reply that I get. So just
growsomethingpodcast.com/news and I will leave a link to that
in the show notes. So if you are completely new to
(02:09):
growing any of these crops, I'm going to leave links to full
crop specific episodes for garlic and onions, plus the very
detailed episode on planting onions in the fall in the show
description. There's a lot of good
information in those episodes and they really are worth the
listen. O this is honestly the time of
year when I am just begging for the first frost to hit and
(02:33):
please just take out all of my plants because I'm tired, right?
Our last frost date, our last normal frost date is usually
like October 20th. And so yeah, we're past that now
and we still haven't had our first frost.
And you know, looking at the 10 day forecast, it doesn't look
like it's, you know, anywhere near frosting anytime soon.
(02:58):
And so I am still picking, you know, tomatoes and Peppers and
cutting celery and cucumbers. And I'm kind of over it.
And so when we're tired like this, it might seem like, you
know, getting out there and prepping a bed or two to be able
to get these things like garlic and onions into the ground.
(03:20):
It just sounds like a lot of effort.
And maybe we're just not into it.
But trust me when I say the effort is worth it is a really
good quick win in the spring without really having to do much
at all. OK.
If you can dedicate 1 area whereyou can go through and you can
do some cleanup and you can do some bed prep and get these
(03:43):
crops in, you will absolutely bethankful for it in the spring.
And it doesn't necessarily have to be like one entire bed.
If you are trying to do more in terms of intercropping next
season, then garlic and onions and shallots are things that are
really good for tucking in alongthe ends of beds that will be
(04:04):
planted to other mixed crops in the spring.
These can also be tucked into the corners of like your raised
planters. And so you're still having
places where you can plant all of your other crops because you
will know where these are. These will already be popping up
in the spring before you're ready to plant anything else.
So it's not like you're going toforget where they are.
(04:25):
OK. And again, you can just do full
beds of these if you want to or intermix them.
There are loads and loads of options here for just getting
these out into the garden. And that also includes doing
some things in pots, if you can put them in a protected area or
if you're not quite in such a cold zone.
OK, so we're going to start withgarlic because October is kind
(04:47):
of prime time in a lot of the Northern Hemisphere for planting
garlic. Now, some of these things, if
you are in a colder zone, say maybe zone 4 or colder right
now, you might have missed the window.
Don't panic because you might still be able to do something
with these. So long as your ground is not
(05:07):
frozen by now, you very well maybe beyond your first frost.
And that's, that's OK. We just don't want the ground
solidly frozen yet, OK? We want to get them in at the
right time so that they get a chance to go ahead and, and
root. But not all is not lost if if
you think you've missed the window, OK, garlic should go
(05:31):
into the ground in the fall because it needs vernalization.
This is like a cold period. Otherwise those bulbs are not
going to differentiate. You're not going to get those
multiple cloves in the bulb. So it roughly needs like a month
or two at temperatures between 32 and 50°F in order to be able
(05:57):
to properly differentiate like that.
So this chilling naturally happens if we planted in the
fall. If you really are in an area
where it has just gotten too late to do this, you can do a
spring planting, but you're going to have to artificially
chill those cloves first. So you will need to put them
(06:18):
like in your refrigerator for a good 6 to 8 weeks prior to
planting them out in the spring.They're still going to be
smaller more than likely, but atleast you'll get those
differentiated bulbs instead of just like one giant clove, which
if you've ever planted garlic inthe spring and it didn't get
that, that vernalization period,you know exactly what I'm
(06:38):
talking about. You get like one giant clove of
garlic and that's it. You don't get the individuals OK
in terms of what type you shouldbe planting.
Hard neck garlic is really generally better for the colder
climates and the bonus to this is that you get that edible
scape in the late spring that you can cut off and you can use
that before you even harvest thegarlic.
(06:59):
Soft neck tends to be better in milder climates.
Softneck also tends to store longer.
So if you're in an area like I am where we're zone 6B, we are
practically like smack dab in the middle of the growing zones.
I can actually plant both and doboth very successfully.
(07:22):
How they grow tends to be based on what our winter temperatures
are like. So sometimes we have very, very
mild winters and our soft neck does phenomenally well and the
hard neck is just kind of so so.And then there are other years
where we have a really, really harsh winter and the hard neck
(07:43):
does phenomenally well and the soft neck just kind of does so.
So here in recent years, I thinkthe soft neck has really sort of
won out just because number one,soft neck tends to be a larger
head of garlic. So if you like a lot of cloves
in your garlic, then soft neck is the way to go if you can get
away with it in your climate. But we also do the hard neck too
(08:06):
because it generally has a stronger flavor.
So soft neck is going to store longer and it's also what you
use to make braids in most instances.
If you want to do a garlic braid, the soft neck is easier
to work with and the hard neck, although it tends to be smaller,
does tend to have a stronger flavor.
So we just like to do both. Now do you need to order
(08:30):
certified disease free garlic? Yes and no.
OK. That is the recommendation.
And if it's your first time evergrowing garlic, then I would
recommend yes. If you can do that, then by all
means do it. It's going to give you a better
level of initial success. You're not going to worry about
(08:51):
bringing a disease into your garden that you don't already
have. And you know that it has been
cured properly in order to be able to, you know, sprout
properly. You know it hasn't been sprayed
with anything that would preventit from sprouting.
This is the only problem. Well, not the only problem.
One of the problems with buying garlic in the grocery store and
(09:14):
trying to grow it, often times it is sprayed with a hormone to
keep it from sprouting and that obviously defeats the purpose if
we want them to sprout. OK, you can do better if you're
buying like certified organic bulbs in the grocery store.
But if the price of like seed garlic sends you reeling because
(09:36):
it is fairly expensive, I think this year the sources that I
have seen, they've gone up to close to, you know, $28.00 for a
pound of seed garlic, which is really, really high.
And I get it. They're certified that, you
know, they don't have a disease.And so, you know, it's a good
way to start. But if you have a farmer close
(10:00):
to you that you trust, if there is somebody at the farmers
market that you shop with or youhave ACSA through who grows
things in organic matter and youknow, they can tell you no,
we've had no diseases. Yes, this is OK for you to
plant. You likely can find seed garlic
a lot less expensively if you just get them straight from your
local farmer. So, but if you really want to
(10:21):
make sure that you're getting off to your best start, then
yes, certified disease free actual seed garlic is a really
good idea. The classic rule of thumb
basically for garlic is you wantto plant it about three to six
weeks before the ground freezes.Now it's like, oh, when is that
going to be? Because you never really know,
(10:42):
right? So just aim for when your soil
temperatures are around 50°F andthey're starting to drop.
So in my colder regions, yeah, late September, maybe early
October. If you haven't gotten your
garlic in, you really probably want to do that.
Once we get further South or we get into those warmer regions,
(11:04):
we're talking October into November.
I have planted our garlic and our onions as late as the third
week in November and had no problem with them, you know,
getting rooted in. The key here is that you really
just want enough time for the roots to get established, but
(11:24):
you don't want to plant so earlythat you're getting a ton of
leafy top growth and then you have a hard freeze that kind of
kills it off. The hard freezes obviously
aren't going to damage these bulbs, but you don't want all
that green at the top because that can actually, you know,
improve your chances or increaseyour chances of there being some
damage to the bulb underneath. The one thing to remember mostly
(11:48):
about where you plant your garlic is that garlic does not
like having its feet wet. OK, It doesn't want to be wet
all the time. So we want a sunny bed because
you are going to want the full sun.
You want to make sure that it iswell drained.
This is why raised planters, raised beds are really, really
great for this because you tend to have better drainage.
(12:11):
If you can work in some finishedcompost for organic matter and
even some fertility, that is really going to do well.
For garlic, it really likes thatorganic matter.
This is especially important if you have very heavy soil.
You want to probably prioritize drainage over fertility if you
(12:31):
have to choose between them, if you have really heavy soil,
because you know the bulbs just are not going to get to the
mature size or the right size ifthey're in really heavy, sort of
mucky, wet soil, OK. You do want to make sure though
that you are sort of rotating these crops away from other alum
(12:53):
crops. So if you have a bed where you
grew onions this year, you likely do not want to rotate in
any garlic. Now, the one caveat to this is
if you do a lot of heavy inter planting and intercropping like
I do, then you're less likely toneed to worry about rotating
these crops because we're mixingall of those crops in and
(13:15):
against each other, especially when they're in different, you
know, plant families, then we'reminimizing that disease risk.
But if you have seen anything like any type of a white rod or
basil rod or anything in any of your alliums before, then make
sure that you're rotating those beds and absolutely start with
clean seed stock. That's going to be your number
one disease prevention step. So any allium diseases
(13:38):
whatsoever, however, then yes, go for that certified seed
garlic. OK, When you go to plant garlic,
you're going to break those bulbs into their individual
cloves right before planting. This is not something that you
want to do ahead of time, and you want to try to keep as much
of that papery wrapper intact oneach one of those cloves.
(13:58):
And sometimes it's just going tocome off.
That's just how it goes, especially if you have saved
your own garlic to replant. That's another thing too.
If you have grown garlic this year and you, you know, you want
to go ahead and use your own, then that's fine.
Just make sure that you are choosing the largest, healthiest
(14:20):
cloves that you have and then save the smaller ones for use in
your kitchen. OK, so just like when we're
saving seeds and we we see the specimen that is the biggest and
the best and the most beautiful,and that is the one that we save
our seeds from because that's the genetics that we're trying
to reproduce. Same thing goes with the garlic.
(14:41):
If you're planting from very small bulbs or small cloves,
then you're likely going to get small garlic.
So pick the biggest and the bestto go ahead and plant those.
Make sure that you plant with the pointy end up.
You want that basil plate where the the root system is to be
facing down, and then you're going to cover each one of those
(15:03):
cloves with about one to two inches of soil, which is going
to put it roughly about two to three inches deep, depending on
how you have prepped your bed. If you do it all in a furrow and
you drop them down and then you cover up, then yeah, it's going
to be about two to three inches.If you just poke holes, which is
what I tend to do, and drop themin, then you're looking at about
(15:25):
two inches or so down and then just patting it covered up.
If you are in a very cold zone or you have soil that is really
prone to frost heave, meaning asthat freeze thaw cycle continues
through the winter, it tends to push things up out of the
ground, you might need to plant a little bit more deep.
(15:47):
So 3 to 4 inches might actually be how you want to plant your
garlic. OK.
If you're in a milder zone, thenyeah, shallower is fine.
One to two inches is going to beOK.
You just want to space them about four to six inches apart
in rows that are about 8 to 12 inches apart.
(16:07):
Or you can do it in a grid like the square foot gardening method
or whatever and just do them in,in, in blocks that way.
And that's what I tend to do. I just, I just space them, you
know, four or six. Usually it's about 6 inches
across because I have a dibbler that my husband built for me
where each little, I don't know spacer I guess is 6 inches from
(16:30):
each other and the whole thing is 4 feet wide if I remember
correctly. So I just go 6 inches by 6
inches all the way down. That's how I do my onions the
same way. OK, so it's, it's just because
I'm planting so many, it makes sense for me just to use the
same dibbler and just to do the same thing over and over again.
(16:51):
In terms of water, you just wantto water once basically after
you're planting it just to set up of the soil.
And then you know, if you're in a very dry zone through the
winter times, then you might need to water occasionally.
You, you know it since it's not actively growing.
(17:12):
Again, we don't want that to be super saturated all the time.
We don't want their feet wet, but you don't want it to be bone
dry either. So if either your your soil
conditions are really dry, unusually for you for, for the
winter, then you might want to once, once a month give it some
water. Otherwise, generally speaking,
you can just let you know the rainfall or the snowfall take
(17:34):
care of it for you in the in thewinter time.
The one thing that you also do though, is you want to mulch.
OK, This is your insurance policy whether especially if you
were in a cold area, if you werein a very warm area, you may not
necessarily need to mulch, but you know me and my feelings on
(17:54):
mulch. This is going to protect your
soil no matter what. So 3 or 4 inches of clean straw
or shredded leaves over the bed immediately after planting is
really going to help buffer those winter temperature swings.
So it's going to prevent that sort of freeze thaw heating.
It is also going to help to keepthose spring weeds at Bay
(18:16):
because we don't want that competition with our garlic when
they're just starting to sprout in the springtime.
OK. If you are in a very, very cold
area, then you likely want to add as much as 6 inches of straw
to help with keeping it insulated.
But you are going to have to pull it back in the spring to
(18:38):
help warm that soil up and just leave a thin layer to suppress
those weeds, OK. You might see a little bit of
growth on these depending on when you plant them, and a
little bit of growth is fine. We don't want there to be like 4
inches or 6 inches of growth before we start to see our
really hard freezes. So if that does happen, that's
(18:59):
an indication for you the next time that maybe you want to wait
and plant a little bit later. Once we get to the spring and
you start seeing those shoots coming up and they're about 6 to
8 inches tall, that is when we saw a top dress or side dress
with some sort of a nitrogen source and then keep that
moisture sort of steady as the bulbs start to grow.
(19:21):
And then we want to back off thewater as we approach the
harvest. So if you go back and listen to
that garlic episode, it's going to have a lot more information
about, you know, how what to do in the spring and how to harvest
and those types of things. We're just worried right now
about getting them in the groundand getting them off to a really
good start. Yeah, let's talk onions and
shallots. And if you're wondering what the
(19:42):
difference is between onions andshallots, because I never really
had an idea before, basically onions grow individually,
whereas shallots grow in clusters similar to garlic.
Like, you know, you see the individual cloves of garlic,
that's sort of how shallots grow.
(20:02):
They kind of grow in these clumps.
Shallots generally have a milder, a little bit more
delicate flavor compared to onions, which tend to be a
little bit sharper. And then of course, because
they're growing in this little cluster, shallots have more of a
teardrop shape and they have a light purplish flesh where, you
know, onions are typically roundor maybe kind of, you know,
(20:25):
squat. And they can obviously vary in
color. You got purple, red to yellow to
white, all of these things. OK, most people will go ahead
and plant shallots in the fall. The sets can be planted
basically after your first frostso that you get a late spring to
early summer harvest in a lot ofclimates.
(20:46):
These are ones where you want tospace them about 3 to 6 inches
apart in rows that are 12 to 18 inches apart.
This is very, very similar to how we plant our garlic.
So again, I'm just going to do 6by 6 for my entire grid.
But if you're planting these in little pockets of your raised
beds or in beds that are going to be mixed then later on down
(21:06):
the road, then just do them, youknow, 3 to 6 inches apart in
whatever way that you can. The beautiful thing about all of
these things, the alums, they don't need any pollination.
They're not, you know, necessarily needing to be up
against others of their kind in order to be able to grow.
So you can pop them in wherever you want, just so long as
they're not too close together, you're not worried about how
(21:26):
them being too far apart. OK.
Now, if you do have really, really severe winters, then
shallots can be a little bit sensitive to this.
So if you are like zone 4 or colder, then you might consider
extra mulch or just waiting until the spring because you
absolutely can do this in the spring too.
(21:47):
I just like to get a jump on things.
It's one less thing that I have to worry about in the spring and
that is why I also do my onions.So for bulbing onions, the large
bulbing onions, most resources are going to recommend doing
them in the spring. But fall planting does have a
(22:07):
niche. OK, you can absolutely do some
bunching onions, right? They're all that.
There are like perennial and multiplier types.
That's the Egyptian walking onion is one of them.
But I do full blown onion sets in the fall and I basically
treat them the exact same way I do shallots or I do garlic.
(22:30):
And in some areas this is going to work for you.
In other areas, it's just going to give you like early green
onions. Or if they go a little bit
further, then you might get whatwe refer to as spring onions,
which means they're not really getting to that full size
maturity that you normally wouldharvest for a big summer bulb.
(22:50):
But these are still very good, like you still get like the
green top that you can use for green onions and you get an
immature onion that's maybe justnot huge, but it's fresh and you
can use it right away. So we do both, right?
I will plant onion sets right now in the fall in the exact
same manner that I do the shallots and I do the the
(23:14):
garlic. So I'm trying to get them in,
you know, four to six weeks before the first really kind of
hard freeze. Usually this is around now in,
you know, warmer areas it it might be later.
Again, the same thing with the onions and the shallots is you
(23:35):
want the sets to establish some roots but you don't want them to
start to develop like any top growth before the winter.
I have planted again these sets as late as mid November in our
warmer years like what we're having now and had no problem.
It's really more about the soil temperature at this stage of the
game and less about the air temperatures and the daylight
(23:56):
hours. We just want them to get some
root growth on them before they go completely dormant.
And in my experience, you may see some top growth depending on
the air temperatures through thewinter.
OK, I actually have a YouTube video titled Fall Planting
Onions, I think, and I will linkto that one in the show notes
(24:18):
also. And you can see in that video, I
show the onions in January and you can see they have, you know,
long green tops on them, but they haven't been damaged.
They're, they're OK. So essentially you want to do
the same thing with your onions,your bold onions, as you do with
your garlic. You do want to mulch.
And again, that the mulch is going to be heavier the colder
(24:40):
your area is. And in some instances when they
come up in the spring, they, they may end up bolting
depending on what area of the country you're in or what zone
you are in. And that is OK.
They are still usable. But This is why I do both.
So I will plant the sets in the fall, and then I will plant from
seedlings in the spring. So I will start seedlings
(25:03):
indoors and I will transplant those out.
And that way I'm sort of, once again, covering all my bases to
make sure that I get what I needin terms of my onions.
OK, So what about some troubleshooting?
There are three easy ways that you can kind of, you know, cause
problems with any of these crops.
And the first one is planting too early because you're going
(25:23):
to get a lot of top growth that winter kills, and the
possibility of you damaging thatbulb underneath is much higher.
The other way is to plant too late and you're going to get
poor rooting, which means that they may not survive the winter
because they have no way to takeup any water or anything during
the winter time. They're just going to kind of
sit there and rot. The other thing is you can get
(25:45):
that frost heaving if it doesn'tget a chance to root in at all.
As your soil goes through that freeze thaw cycle, they're more
likely to pop up out of the ground and be damaged.
And then the third way is that soggy soil.
None of these crops like having their feet wet.
So you know, make sure that it'swell draining soil.
Try to plant when you know you're not getting a solid rain
(26:07):
going on in some areas. I know winter tends to be your
rainy season. So if you can get them in the
ground before that starts happening, that's your best
idea. Just use your timing cues and in
terms of, you know, the temperatures and, and when you
think your your frost or your ground is going to start to
freeze and use that as your guide as to when to get these
(26:28):
in. Again, mulch and winter care for
your onions is essentially the same as your garlic.
So when you're overwintering onions, you want to mulch to
help insulate these bulbs. It's also going to retain the
moisture. It's going to suppress the
weeds. The best mulch options kind of
depend on your climate and what materials you have available to
you. I always use straw.
(26:49):
We've also done shredded leaves.If you live somewhere where pine
trees are prevalent, pine needles are fine.
If you're in really cold zones, I definitely suggest the straw
and the shredded leaves. They tend to have the best
insulation. If you're in a warmer zone, you
may not need much mulch at all for any kind of cold protection,
mainly just for weed prevention.OK, So again, 3 to 4 inches,
(27:12):
just like with our garlic, if you are in a colder climate,
even more if you need to and you're going to have to pull
that back. And then, you know, if you're in
a zone like 7 through 9, two inches is probably plenty.
If you are in zones 3 through 6,your onion sets are going to
remain dormant during the winterand they're going to start
resuming growth very slowly in the early spring as the soil
(27:36):
starts to warm and then they're suddenly going to take off.
So if you can keep the soil lightly moist through the
spring, especially as the weather warms, then you're going
to be better off. If you're in zone 7 through 11,
your seedlings, your onion seedlings are going to continue
to grow over the winter and it'sgoing to put on more growth as
(27:56):
the spring approaches. So again, water regularly, but
we don't want to over saturate the soil.
And then as far as feeding them,once that spring growth resumes,
then you're going to want to side dress just like with the
garlic, with a nitrogen rich fertilizer of some sort, blood
meal, composted manure, feather meal.
(28:17):
And that's going to promote thatleafy growth.
You do want to stop feeding thatnitrogen once those bulbs start
to swell. If you see bulbs starting to
heave up after it starts to thawin a little bit in the in the
winter, toss some extra mulch onthe bed, you know, in the
spring. Then you can decide if you want
to pull that mulch aside to warmup the soil or if you just want
(28:39):
to leave a thinner layer to keepthe weeds down.
But you know, that's, that's theperfect way to to approach it.
OK so can you plant grocery store garlic?
Yes, but avoid it if it's if it's not organic for sure
because it likely has been treated to prevent that
(29:00):
sprouting. It can possibly carry diseases.
So if you are new to this game, please use certified seed or
garlic bulbs from a trusted grower.
If you've missed this fall window then plant in the early
spring, right? Consider pre chilling those
cloves, so about 6 to 8 weeks inthe refrigerator to at least get
(29:21):
that differentiation of the bulbs.
You still might expect some smaller bulbs.
Mulch, mulch, mulch. Please 3 to 4 inches of straw or
shredded leaves. If you are in a really cold
region, then make sure that you are mulching heavier.
And at this point, once you get a good crop of garlic, then you
can hold those like your biggestand best healthiest bulbs from
(29:46):
the harvest to go ahead and plant again the next year.
If you haven't seen any diseases.
Now, can you grow your own sets,onion sets?
The answer is yes. Those onion sets are simply
onion seeds that were grown right into a little seedling and
they were allowed to start to form that little bulb and then
(30:08):
they were bent over and basically pinched off to prevent
them from continuing to grow. This is sort of forcing them
into a dormancy and making them essentially going to be a second
year onion when you plant them. So if you want to try doing your
own, you can save some of your spring seedlings if you grow
(30:32):
them from seed, plant half of them, allow the others to
continue to grow a little bit. Or you can plant them really,
really close together out in thegarden if you want.
And then once they get to, you know, a nice little, I don't
know what size you would call that.
I mean like a Pearl onion, right?
Once they get to that size, pinch them over and get them to
stop growing, pull them and let them dry and then you have your
(30:56):
own sets to plant in the fall. I know it can be difficult to
find sets to plant. I will leave a link in the show
notes to where we always get ours and I've had great, great
luck with it. I just encourage you, you know,
garlic and onions both, it is sort of low effort because you
get to throw it in the ground and then just give it minimal
attention over the winter time and it's going to start bouncing
(31:18):
back up for you in the spring. It's like a no brainer.
Just make sure you're picking a sunny, well drained bed and
you're losing, you know, clean seed.
You're planting them at the appropriate depth and the
appropriate width away from eachother and you're basically done
until spring, OK? Just make sure that you're
giving everybody a little mulch blanket too.
So don't forget just growsomethingpodcast.com/news to
(31:41):
get on my e-mail list. You never know what topic I'm
going to show up on Fridays in your inbox with, and all of the
links to all the different episodes that I referenced today
are all going to be in the show notes for you as well.
Until next time, my gardening friends, keep on cultivating
that dream garden, and we'll talk again soon.
I know many of us are sort of worn out from the summer garden
right now, and fall is just sortof trotting in really slowly in
some spaces, but now is the timeto be getting our garlic, our
shallots, and even onions into the garden in some places.
If you can give me one good hourin the garden this month, you
(00:21):
can absolutely set yourself up for really big flavor next
summer, plus a few bonuses alongthe way.
So today on Just Grow Something,we're going to walk through
planting garlic and shallots andsome tips on where it's OK to
even plant onion sets for a summer harvest.
We'll talk about when to plant for your location, how to prep
(00:42):
the bed, and details about planting, which onions and
shallots make sense to plant now, troubleshooting, and will
answer your most frequently asked questions about these
crops. Let's dig in.
Hey, I'm Karen and what started as a small backyard garden 20
years ago turned into a lifelongpassion for growing food.
Now as a market farmer and horticulturist, I want to help
(01:03):
you do the same. On this podcast, I am your
friend in the garden teaching evidence based techniques to
help you grow your favorites andbuild confidence in your own
garden space. So grab your garden journal and
a cup of coffee and get ready tojust grow something.
Quick reminder, if you are not on my e-mail list, get on that
(01:24):
list by going to justforsomethingpodcast.com/news.
I send out an e-mail each Fridayon one specific topic and I get
the chance to get into some pretty good details about
subjects that maybe don't warrant an entire episode to
themselves. Or sometimes additional details
about a topic that we covered onthe show.
But then, you know, maybe that part got cut in editing or
(01:46):
something. It's also a really easy way for
you to give me suggestions for topics or ask me questions
directly by just replying to those emails.
I read every reply that I get. So just
growsomethingpodcast.com/news and I will leave a link to that
in the show notes. So if you are completely new to
(02:09):
growing any of these crops, I'm going to leave links to full
crop specific episodes for garlic and onions, plus the very
detailed episode on planting onions in the fall in the show
description. There's a lot of good
information in those episodes and they really are worth the
listen. O this is honestly the time of
year when I am just begging for the first frost to hit and
(02:33):
please just take out all of my plants because I'm tired, right?
Our last frost date, our last normal frost date is usually
like October 20th. And so yeah, we're past that now
and we still haven't had our first frost.
And you know, looking at the 10 day forecast, it doesn't look
like it's, you know, anywhere near frosting anytime soon.
(02:58):
And so I am still picking, you know, tomatoes and Peppers and
cutting celery and cucumbers. And I'm kind of over it.
And so when we're tired like this, it might seem like, you
know, getting out there and prepping a bed or two to be able
to get these things like garlic and onions into the ground.
(03:20):
It just sounds like a lot of effort.
And maybe we're just not into it.
But trust me when I say the effort is worth it is a really
good quick win in the spring without really having to do much
at all. OK.
If you can dedicate 1 area whereyou can go through and you can
do some cleanup and you can do some bed prep and get these
(03:43):
crops in, you will absolutely bethankful for it in the spring.
And it doesn't necessarily have to be like one entire bed.
If you are trying to do more in terms of intercropping next
season, then garlic and onions and shallots are things that are
really good for tucking in alongthe ends of beds that will be
(04:04):
planted to other mixed crops in the spring.
These can also be tucked into the corners of like your raised
planters. And so you're still having
places where you can plant all of your other crops because you
will know where these are. These will already be popping up
in the spring before you're ready to plant anything else.
So it's not like you're going toforget where they are.
(04:25):
OK. And again, you can just do full
beds of these if you want to or intermix them.
There are loads and loads of options here for just getting
these out into the garden. And that also includes doing
some things in pots, if you can put them in a protected area or
if you're not quite in such a cold zone.
OK, so we're going to start withgarlic because October is kind
(04:47):
of prime time in a lot of the Northern Hemisphere for planting
garlic. Now, some of these things, if
you are in a colder zone, say maybe zone 4 or colder right
now, you might have missed the window.
Don't panic because you might still be able to do something
with these. So long as your ground is not
(05:07):
frozen by now, you very well maybe beyond your first frost.
And that's, that's OK. We just don't want the ground
solidly frozen yet, OK? We want to get them in at the
right time so that they get a chance to go ahead and, and
root. But not all is not lost if if
you think you've missed the window, OK, garlic should go
(05:31):
into the ground in the fall because it needs vernalization.
This is like a cold period. Otherwise those bulbs are not
going to differentiate. You're not going to get those
multiple cloves in the bulb. So it roughly needs like a month
or two at temperatures between 32 and 50°F in order to be able
(05:57):
to properly differentiate like that.
So this chilling naturally happens if we planted in the
fall. If you really are in an area
where it has just gotten too late to do this, you can do a
spring planting, but you're going to have to artificially
chill those cloves first. So you will need to put them
(06:18):
like in your refrigerator for a good 6 to 8 weeks prior to
planting them out in the spring.They're still going to be
smaller more than likely, but atleast you'll get those
differentiated bulbs instead of just like one giant clove, which
if you've ever planted garlic inthe spring and it didn't get
that, that vernalization period,you know exactly what I'm
(06:38):
talking about. You get like one giant clove of
garlic and that's it. You don't get the individuals OK
in terms of what type you shouldbe planting.
Hard neck garlic is really generally better for the colder
climates and the bonus to this is that you get that edible
scape in the late spring that you can cut off and you can use
that before you even harvest thegarlic.
(06:59):
Soft neck tends to be better in milder climates.
Softneck also tends to store longer.
So if you're in an area like I am where we're zone 6B, we are
practically like smack dab in the middle of the growing zones.
I can actually plant both and doboth very successfully.
(07:22):
How they grow tends to be based on what our winter temperatures
are like. So sometimes we have very, very
mild winters and our soft neck does phenomenally well and the
hard neck is just kind of so so.And then there are other years
where we have a really, really harsh winter and the hard neck
(07:43):
does phenomenally well and the soft neck just kind of does so.
So here in recent years, I thinkthe soft neck has really sort of
won out just because number one,soft neck tends to be a larger
head of garlic. So if you like a lot of cloves
in your garlic, then soft neck is the way to go if you can get
away with it in your climate. But we also do the hard neck too
(08:06):
because it generally has a stronger flavor.
So soft neck is going to store longer and it's also what you
use to make braids in most instances.
If you want to do a garlic braid, the soft neck is easier
to work with and the hard neck, although it tends to be smaller,
does tend to have a stronger flavor.
So we just like to do both. Now do you need to order
(08:30):
certified disease free garlic? Yes and no.
OK. That is the recommendation.
And if it's your first time evergrowing garlic, then I would
recommend yes. If you can do that, then by all
means do it. It's going to give you a better
level of initial success. You're not going to worry about
(08:51):
bringing a disease into your garden that you don't already
have. And you know that it has been
cured properly in order to be able to, you know, sprout
properly. You know it hasn't been sprayed
with anything that would preventit from sprouting.
This is the only problem. Well, not the only problem.
One of the problems with buying garlic in the grocery store and
(09:14):
trying to grow it, often times it is sprayed with a hormone to
keep it from sprouting and that obviously defeats the purpose if
we want them to sprout. OK, you can do better if you're
buying like certified organic bulbs in the grocery store.
But if the price of like seed garlic sends you reeling because
(09:36):
it is fairly expensive, I think this year the sources that I
have seen, they've gone up to close to, you know, $28.00 for a
pound of seed garlic, which is really, really high.
And I get it. They're certified that, you
know, they don't have a disease.And so, you know, it's a good
way to start. But if you have a farmer close
(10:00):
to you that you trust, if there is somebody at the farmers
market that you shop with or youhave ACSA through who grows
things in organic matter and youknow, they can tell you no,
we've had no diseases. Yes, this is OK for you to
plant. You likely can find seed garlic
a lot less expensively if you just get them straight from your
local farmer. So, but if you really want to
(10:21):
make sure that you're getting off to your best start, then
yes, certified disease free actual seed garlic is a really
good idea. The classic rule of thumb
basically for garlic is you wantto plant it about three to six
weeks before the ground freezes.Now it's like, oh, when is that
going to be? Because you never really know,
(10:42):
right? So just aim for when your soil
temperatures are around 50°F andthey're starting to drop.
So in my colder regions, yeah, late September, maybe early
October. If you haven't gotten your
garlic in, you really probably want to do that.
Once we get further South or we get into those warmer regions,
(11:04):
we're talking October into November.
I have planted our garlic and our onions as late as the third
week in November and had no problem with them, you know,
getting rooted in. The key here is that you really
just want enough time for the roots to get established, but
(11:24):
you don't want to plant so earlythat you're getting a ton of
leafy top growth and then you have a hard freeze that kind of
kills it off. The hard freezes obviously
aren't going to damage these bulbs, but you don't want all
that green at the top because that can actually, you know,
improve your chances or increaseyour chances of there being some
damage to the bulb underneath. The one thing to remember mostly
(11:48):
about where you plant your garlic is that garlic does not
like having its feet wet. OK, It doesn't want to be wet
all the time. So we want a sunny bed because
you are going to want the full sun.
You want to make sure that it iswell drained.
This is why raised planters, raised beds are really, really
great for this because you tend to have better drainage.
(12:11):
If you can work in some finishedcompost for organic matter and
even some fertility, that is really going to do well.
For garlic, it really likes thatorganic matter.
This is especially important if you have very heavy soil.
You want to probably prioritize drainage over fertility if you
(12:31):
have to choose between them, if you have really heavy soil,
because you know the bulbs just are not going to get to the
mature size or the right size ifthey're in really heavy, sort of
mucky, wet soil, OK. You do want to make sure though
that you are sort of rotating these crops away from other alum
(12:53):
crops. So if you have a bed where you
grew onions this year, you likely do not want to rotate in
any garlic. Now, the one caveat to this is
if you do a lot of heavy inter planting and intercropping like
I do, then you're less likely toneed to worry about rotating
these crops because we're mixingall of those crops in and
(13:15):
against each other, especially when they're in different, you
know, plant families, then we'reminimizing that disease risk.
But if you have seen anything like any type of a white rod or
basil rod or anything in any of your alliums before, then make
sure that you're rotating those beds and absolutely start with
clean seed stock. That's going to be your number
one disease prevention step. So any allium diseases
(13:38):
whatsoever, however, then yes, go for that certified seed
garlic. OK, When you go to plant garlic,
you're going to break those bulbs into their individual
cloves right before planting. This is not something that you
want to do ahead of time, and you want to try to keep as much
of that papery wrapper intact oneach one of those cloves.
(13:58):
And sometimes it's just going tocome off.
That's just how it goes, especially if you have saved
your own garlic to replant. That's another thing too.
If you have grown garlic this year and you, you know, you want
to go ahead and use your own, then that's fine.
Just make sure that you are choosing the largest, healthiest
(14:20):
cloves that you have and then save the smaller ones for use in
your kitchen. OK, so just like when we're
saving seeds and we we see the specimen that is the biggest and
the best and the most beautiful,and that is the one that we save
our seeds from because that's the genetics that we're trying
to reproduce. Same thing goes with the garlic.
(14:41):
If you're planting from very small bulbs or small cloves,
then you're likely going to get small garlic.
So pick the biggest and the bestto go ahead and plant those.
Make sure that you plant with the pointy end up.
You want that basil plate where the the root system is to be
facing down, and then you're going to cover each one of those
(15:03):
cloves with about one to two inches of soil, which is going
to put it roughly about two to three inches deep, depending on
how you have prepped your bed. If you do it all in a furrow and
you drop them down and then you cover up, then yeah, it's going
to be about two to three inches.If you just poke holes, which is
what I tend to do, and drop themin, then you're looking at about
(15:25):
two inches or so down and then just patting it covered up.
If you are in a very cold zone or you have soil that is really
prone to frost heave, meaning asthat freeze thaw cycle continues
through the winter, it tends to push things up out of the
ground, you might need to plant a little bit more deep.
(15:47):
So 3 to 4 inches might actually be how you want to plant your
garlic. OK.
If you're in a milder zone, thenyeah, shallower is fine.
One to two inches is going to beOK.
You just want to space them about four to six inches apart
in rows that are about 8 to 12 inches apart.
(16:07):
Or you can do it in a grid like the square foot gardening method
or whatever and just do them in,in, in blocks that way.
And that's what I tend to do. I just, I just space them, you
know, four or six. Usually it's about 6 inches
across because I have a dibbler that my husband built for me
where each little, I don't know spacer I guess is 6 inches from
(16:30):
each other and the whole thing is 4 feet wide if I remember
correctly. So I just go 6 inches by 6
inches all the way down. That's how I do my onions the
same way. OK, so it's, it's just because
I'm planting so many, it makes sense for me just to use the
same dibbler and just to do the same thing over and over again.
(16:51):
In terms of water, you just wantto water once basically after
you're planting it just to set up of the soil.
And then you know, if you're in a very dry zone through the
winter times, then you might need to water occasionally.
You, you know it since it's not actively growing.
(17:12):
Again, we don't want that to be super saturated all the time.
We don't want their feet wet, but you don't want it to be bone
dry either. So if either your your soil
conditions are really dry, unusually for you for, for the
winter, then you might want to once, once a month give it some
water. Otherwise, generally speaking,
you can just let you know the rainfall or the snowfall take
(17:34):
care of it for you in the in thewinter time.
The one thing that you also do though, is you want to mulch.
OK, This is your insurance policy whether especially if you
were in a cold area, if you werein a very warm area, you may not
necessarily need to mulch, but you know me and my feelings on
(17:54):
mulch. This is going to protect your
soil no matter what. So 3 or 4 inches of clean straw
or shredded leaves over the bed immediately after planting is
really going to help buffer those winter temperature swings.
So it's going to prevent that sort of freeze thaw heating.
It is also going to help to keepthose spring weeds at Bay
(18:16):
because we don't want that competition with our garlic when
they're just starting to sprout in the springtime.
OK. If you are in a very, very cold
area, then you likely want to add as much as 6 inches of straw
to help with keeping it insulated.
But you are going to have to pull it back in the spring to
(18:38):
help warm that soil up and just leave a thin layer to suppress
those weeds, OK. You might see a little bit of
growth on these depending on when you plant them, and a
little bit of growth is fine. We don't want there to be like 4
inches or 6 inches of growth before we start to see our
really hard freezes. So if that does happen, that's
(18:59):
an indication for you the next time that maybe you want to wait
and plant a little bit later. Once we get to the spring and
you start seeing those shoots coming up and they're about 6 to
8 inches tall, that is when we saw a top dress or side dress
with some sort of a nitrogen source and then keep that
moisture sort of steady as the bulbs start to grow.
(19:21):
And then we want to back off thewater as we approach the
harvest. So if you go back and listen to
that garlic episode, it's going to have a lot more information
about, you know, how what to do in the spring and how to harvest
and those types of things. We're just worried right now
about getting them in the groundand getting them off to a really
good start. Yeah, let's talk onions and
shallots. And if you're wondering what the
(19:42):
difference is between onions andshallots, because I never really
had an idea before, basically onions grow individually,
whereas shallots grow in clusters similar to garlic.
Like, you know, you see the individual cloves of garlic,
that's sort of how shallots grow.
(20:02):
They kind of grow in these clumps.
Shallots generally have a milder, a little bit more
delicate flavor compared to onions, which tend to be a
little bit sharper. And then of course, because
they're growing in this little cluster, shallots have more of a
teardrop shape and they have a light purplish flesh where, you
know, onions are typically roundor maybe kind of, you know,
(20:25):
squat. And they can obviously vary in
color. You got purple, red to yellow to
white, all of these things. OK, most people will go ahead
and plant shallots in the fall. The sets can be planted
basically after your first frostso that you get a late spring to
early summer harvest in a lot ofclimates.
(20:46):
These are ones where you want tospace them about 3 to 6 inches
apart in rows that are 12 to 18 inches apart.
This is very, very similar to how we plant our garlic.
So again, I'm just going to do 6by 6 for my entire grid.
But if you're planting these in little pockets of your raised
beds or in beds that are going to be mixed then later on down
(21:06):
the road, then just do them, youknow, 3 to 6 inches apart in
whatever way that you can. The beautiful thing about all of
these things, the alums, they don't need any pollination.
They're not, you know, necessarily needing to be up
against others of their kind in order to be able to grow.
So you can pop them in wherever you want, just so long as
they're not too close together, you're not worried about how
(21:26):
them being too far apart. OK.
Now, if you do have really, really severe winters, then
shallots can be a little bit sensitive to this.
So if you are like zone 4 or colder, then you might consider
extra mulch or just waiting until the spring because you
absolutely can do this in the spring too.
(21:47):
I just like to get a jump on things.
It's one less thing that I have to worry about in the spring and
that is why I also do my onions.So for bulbing onions, the large
bulbing onions, most resources are going to recommend doing
them in the spring. But fall planting does have a
(22:07):
niche. OK, you can absolutely do some
bunching onions, right? They're all that.
There are like perennial and multiplier types.
That's the Egyptian walking onion is one of them.
But I do full blown onion sets in the fall and I basically
treat them the exact same way I do shallots or I do garlic.
(22:30):
And in some areas this is going to work for you.
In other areas, it's just going to give you like early green
onions. Or if they go a little bit
further, then you might get whatwe refer to as spring onions,
which means they're not really getting to that full size
maturity that you normally wouldharvest for a big summer bulb.
(22:50):
But these are still very good, like you still get like the
green top that you can use for green onions and you get an
immature onion that's maybe justnot huge, but it's fresh and you
can use it right away. So we do both, right?
I will plant onion sets right now in the fall in the exact
same manner that I do the shallots and I do the the
(23:14):
garlic. So I'm trying to get them in,
you know, four to six weeks before the first really kind of
hard freeze. Usually this is around now in,
you know, warmer areas it it might be later.
Again, the same thing with the onions and the shallots is you
(23:35):
want the sets to establish some roots but you don't want them to
start to develop like any top growth before the winter.
I have planted again these sets as late as mid November in our
warmer years like what we're having now and had no problem.
It's really more about the soil temperature at this stage of the
game and less about the air temperatures and the daylight
(23:56):
hours. We just want them to get some
root growth on them before they go completely dormant.
And in my experience, you may see some top growth depending on
the air temperatures through thewinter.
OK, I actually have a YouTube video titled Fall Planting
Onions, I think, and I will linkto that one in the show notes
(24:18):
also. And you can see in that video, I
show the onions in January and you can see they have, you know,
long green tops on them, but they haven't been damaged.
They're, they're OK. So essentially you want to do
the same thing with your onions,your bold onions, as you do with
your garlic. You do want to mulch.
And again, that the mulch is going to be heavier the colder
(24:40):
your area is. And in some instances when they
come up in the spring, they, they may end up bolting
depending on what area of the country you're in or what zone
you are in. And that is OK.
They are still usable. But This is why I do both.
So I will plant the sets in the fall, and then I will plant from
seedlings in the spring. So I will start seedlings
(25:03):
indoors and I will transplant those out.
And that way I'm sort of, once again, covering all my bases to
make sure that I get what I needin terms of my onions.
OK, So what about some troubleshooting?
There are three easy ways that you can kind of, you know, cause
problems with any of these crops.
And the first one is planting too early because you're going
(25:23):
to get a lot of top growth that winter kills, and the
possibility of you damaging thatbulb underneath is much higher.
The other way is to plant too late and you're going to get
poor rooting, which means that they may not survive the winter
because they have no way to takeup any water or anything during
the winter time. They're just going to kind of
sit there and rot. The other thing is you can get
(25:45):
that frost heaving if it doesn'tget a chance to root in at all.
As your soil goes through that freeze thaw cycle, they're more
likely to pop up out of the ground and be damaged.
And then the third way is that soggy soil.
None of these crops like having their feet wet.
So you know, make sure that it'swell draining soil.
Try to plant when you know you're not getting a solid rain
(26:07):
going on in some areas. I know winter tends to be your
rainy season. So if you can get them in the
ground before that starts happening, that's your best
idea. Just use your timing cues and in
terms of, you know, the temperatures and, and when you
think your your frost or your ground is going to start to
freeze and use that as your guide as to when to get these
(26:28):
in. Again, mulch and winter care for
your onions is essentially the same as your garlic.
So when you're overwintering onions, you want to mulch to
help insulate these bulbs. It's also going to retain the
moisture. It's going to suppress the
weeds. The best mulch options kind of
depend on your climate and what materials you have available to
you. I always use straw.
(26:49):
We've also done shredded leaves.If you live somewhere where pine
trees are prevalent, pine needles are fine.
If you're in really cold zones, I definitely suggest the straw
and the shredded leaves. They tend to have the best
insulation. If you're in a warmer zone, you
may not need much mulch at all for any kind of cold protection,
mainly just for weed prevention.OK, So again, 3 to 4 inches,
(27:12):
just like with our garlic, if you are in a colder climate,
even more if you need to and you're going to have to pull
that back. And then, you know, if you're in
a zone like 7 through 9, two inches is probably plenty.
If you are in zones 3 through 6,your onion sets are going to
remain dormant during the winterand they're going to start
resuming growth very slowly in the early spring as the soil
(27:36):
starts to warm and then they're suddenly going to take off.
So if you can keep the soil lightly moist through the
spring, especially as the weather warms, then you're going
to be better off. If you're in zone 7 through 11,
your seedlings, your onion seedlings are going to continue
to grow over the winter and it'sgoing to put on more growth as
(27:56):
the spring approaches. So again, water regularly, but
we don't want to over saturate the soil.
And then as far as feeding them,once that spring growth resumes,
then you're going to want to side dress just like with the
garlic, with a nitrogen rich fertilizer of some sort, blood
meal, composted manure, feather meal.
(28:17):
And that's going to promote thatleafy growth.
You do want to stop feeding thatnitrogen once those bulbs start
to swell. If you see bulbs starting to
heave up after it starts to thawin a little bit in the in the
winter, toss some extra mulch onthe bed, you know, in the
spring. Then you can decide if you want
to pull that mulch aside to warmup the soil or if you just want
(28:39):
to leave a thinner layer to keepthe weeds down.
But you know, that's, that's theperfect way to to approach it.
OK so can you plant grocery store garlic?
Yes, but avoid it if it's if it's not organic for sure
because it likely has been treated to prevent that
(29:00):
sprouting. It can possibly carry diseases.
So if you are new to this game, please use certified seed or
garlic bulbs from a trusted grower.
If you've missed this fall window then plant in the early
spring, right? Consider pre chilling those
cloves, so about 6 to 8 weeks inthe refrigerator to at least get
(29:21):
that differentiation of the bulbs.
You still might expect some smaller bulbs.
Mulch, mulch, mulch. Please 3 to 4 inches of straw or
shredded leaves. If you are in a really cold
region, then make sure that you are mulching heavier.
And at this point, once you get a good crop of garlic, then you
can hold those like your biggestand best healthiest bulbs from
(29:46):
the harvest to go ahead and plant again the next year.
If you haven't seen any diseases.
Now, can you grow your own sets,onion sets?
The answer is yes. Those onion sets are simply
onion seeds that were grown right into a little seedling and
they were allowed to start to form that little bulb and then
(30:08):
they were bent over and basically pinched off to prevent
them from continuing to grow. This is sort of forcing them
into a dormancy and making them essentially going to be a second
year onion when you plant them. So if you want to try doing your
own, you can save some of your spring seedlings if you grow
(30:32):
them from seed, plant half of them, allow the others to
continue to grow a little bit. Or you can plant them really,
really close together out in thegarden if you want.
And then once they get to, you know, a nice little, I don't
know what size you would call that.
I mean like a Pearl onion, right?
Once they get to that size, pinch them over and get them to
stop growing, pull them and let them dry and then you have your
(30:56):
own sets to plant in the fall. I know it can be difficult to
find sets to plant. I will leave a link in the show
notes to where we always get ours and I've had great, great
luck with it. I just encourage you, you know,
garlic and onions both, it is sort of low effort because you
get to throw it in the ground and then just give it minimal
attention over the winter time and it's going to start bouncing
(31:18):
back up for you in the spring. It's like a no brainer.
Just make sure you're picking a sunny, well drained bed and
you're losing, you know, clean seed.
You're planting them at the appropriate depth and the
appropriate width away from eachother and you're basically done
until spring, OK? Just make sure that you're
giving everybody a little mulch blanket too.
So don't forget just growsomethingpodcast.com/news to
(31:41):
get on my e-mail list. You never know what topic I'm
going to show up on Fridays in your inbox with, and all of the
links to all the different episodes that I referenced today
are all going to be in the show notes for you as well.
Until next time, my gardening friends, keep on cultivating
that dream garden, and we'll talk again soon.
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