May 28, 2025 • 56 mins
Teen skincare routine tips from dermatologists: gentle cleanser, sunscreen, and moisturizer are all you need
Two board-certified dermatologists share what really works when it comes to skincare for teens. Dr. Brooke Jeffy explains how seeing teens damage their skin with complicated routines led her to create a dermatologist-recommended skincare line for young skin.
They break down the only three products teens truly need: a gentle cleanser, a lightweight moisturizer, and broad-spectrum sunscreen. You’ll get simple tips on how to use them the right way, like washing for 30 to 60 seconds and not skipping sunscreen, even on cloudy days.
The episode also dives into popular viral skincare trends. Hear what the experts say about ice rollers, derma rollers, and the salmon sperm facial trend.
You’ll also learn why misusing the UV index to plan tanning is a major red flag, and how to build sun protection habits that last.
If you want clear, healthy skin without wasting money or risking irritation, this teen skincare episode is for you.
Mark as Played
Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:00):
Welcome to Listen to your Skin by Moon Skin, the
podcast where science meetsnature to celebrate the story of
your skin.
Your skin is a living canvas,ever evolving, deeply personal
and uniquely yours.
Each week, we'll dive into thescience of healthy skin, share
empowering stories and uncovertransformative self-care rituals
.
We're here to help you embraceevery phase of your journey with
(00:22):
confidence and care.
Hi everyone, welcome to thisweek's episode of Listen to your
Skin podcast by Moon and Skin.
I'm your host, dr Jen Haley, andtoday on the podcast I have a
friend and colleague, dr BrookeJeffy.
She is a fellow board-certifieddermatologist with a very
unique practice.
She has a concierge medicaldermatology and cosmetic
(00:44):
practice in Scottsdale, arizona,where she applies her holistic
approach to skin health.
Dr Jeffy's particularlypassionate about treating
adolescent skin and creatingroutines for a lifetime of
healthy skin, and this is whatled her to found the company
Between B-T-W-N.
It's a skincare line for tweensand teens.
(01:06):
She's a trusted media expert,mom, and loves all things
dermatology and skincare.
Welcome to the show, brooke.
Thank you so much for having me.
Yeah, I'm so glad to have you,so I know you're here in
Scottsdale, I know you have agood practice and you have a
great social media platformwhere you educate people.
What drove you to create theskincare line between and have a
(01:28):
passion for educating?
Speaker 2 (01:29):
Yeah, so there's really a lot of factors that
came together to leading to this.
So one thing is that in myemployed practice, before I
launched my own practice, Istarted to feel very much like I
wasn't able to educate mypatients on some of the things
that seem simple but really makea huge difference.
(01:51):
Like I'll give an example, if Iwas seeing an acne patient, a
younger patient, it's very easyto say, okay, let's start you on
this medical regimen and thenjust be sure you wash your face.
But how were they washing theirface?
Are they actually washing theirface?
Are they actually washing theirface?
Are they getting any benefitfrom doing that?
Taking enough time to do it?
So there started to be all theselifestyle factors that I began
(02:13):
to appreciate and that's justone simple example, but other
things too, that I felt like asI was learning more about
lifestyle factors and theirapplication to skin health that
I wasn't able to address in, youknow, short appointment times.
So that really led me to wantto create a brand, which between
(02:33):
initially sort of just startedout as going to be an
educational brand, to try toteach kids some things about
lifestyle and how to wash theirface and how to, you know,
parents to help them choose theright products.
And then it kind of evolved asI saw more and more patients and
parents asking me well, whatshould I use?
Like we used to say, okay, goget a Cetaphil cleanser, for
(02:55):
example.
There weren't that manyproducts that they had, but as
they've grown they have multipledifferent lines and it's just
more and more confusing forparents to figure out what to
purchase.
So I saw this white space in themarket.
There are certainly now in thelast couple years, a handful of
brands like myself that havereally been focused on teen and
(03:16):
tween skin health that have cometo market, but at that time
there really wasn't anythingthat was specific.
So that's really what promptedme to think, okay, there is this
white space as well.
Let's do the education pieceand let me see if I can provide
some products that really makeit simple for parents to know
(03:37):
that these products that theywould come to me for as a brand
are okay for their young kids'skin and trustworthy.
I have chosen to a certainbeauty standard in skincare
called Credo for clean beauty.
As well as just avoiding thewhole discussion about hormone
(03:58):
disruptors, I just whether ornot that's true or not chose to
leave those out of my products.
So again, just parents couldfeel comfortable with it.
Speaker 1 (04:07):
Okay, let's talk about clean beauty a little bit,
because it's a term that'sthrown around, so what do people
use it as?
How do they differentiatewhether somebody's just throwing
the term clean beauty versuswhether it's really a clean
product?
Speaker 2 (04:20):
Well, I think all of it is just throwing a term
around, because there is nostandard definition of clean
beauty.
There are some, so there's nofully 100% agreed upon standard.
Now, I mentioned that with myskincare line we did choose to
go along with one company'sstandard.
So there are a couple of thesegroups that are trying to make a
(04:43):
standard definition and one ofthem is Credo Beauty.
So we did decide with Betweento, you know, follow those
standards.
But those are still just kindof you know, arbitrary standards
out there that have to beagreed upon.
So a company can mean anything.
It can mean referring to theiringredients that they're
defining as clean, whether ornot that's true or not.
(05:04):
It can refer to, like, theirsustainability practices.
So the bottom line is it cankind of mean anything to the
brand.
Speaker 1 (05:12):
Right, yeah, so okay.
So what, how do you spell Credo?
C-r-e-d-o?
So they would look for that onthe label.
Speaker 2 (05:20):
Yes, there are some brands that would say that
they're Credo beauty compliant.
Credo is also a website andthey sell brands that meet their
standards.
Speaker 1 (05:29):
Okay, and how is that different from like Leaping
Bunny standards?
Speaker 2 (05:33):
So Leaping Bunny is more of a cruelty-free standard,
at least from what I understand.
That's how I understand it too.
Speaker 1 (05:40):
Yeah so there's cruelty-free.
Speaker 2 (05:42):
That's another certification that a brand might
put forth as something thatthey feel is important.
Yeah, so there's cruelty free.
That's another, you know,certification that a brand might
put forth as something thatthey feel is important.
Speaker 1 (05:49):
Okay.
I think that's so important forpeople to hear about clean
beauty because it's so easy tojust pronounce that you're all
of these things.
I mean we see it all the timeas dermatologists.
I was blown away when I was atthe Science of Skincare Summit
last year and realized that Ithink about 17% of social media
information is coming fromdermatologists.
And just for those of you whodon't know, we went to high
(06:12):
school, then four years ofcollege, four years of medical
school, four years of juststudying skin, basically, and
then years and years ofpracticing just skin.
And someone can give outinformation nowadays and people
say, oh, I saw it on theinternet.
I'm like what in the world?
I mean, the first thing Ilearned in college was to look
at the source, and no one'slooking at the source anymore.
Like, who are people gettinginformation from and why would
(06:35):
we trust it?
Like, what's their background?
I mean, over 20 years, I'veseen so many trends come and go,
so I get it.
It's really hard as adermatologist who's in such a
busy practice, but when you seepeople following good guidelines
and good science-backedskincare regimens and then
they're destroying their skin athome with other things that
(06:55):
they find online, it can bequite disturbing.
So what are some of thosethings that you see people doing
, or that you saw some of thetweens and the teens doing that
were disrupting your acnerecommendations?
Speaker 2 (07:07):
Sure, I mean, one thing is just multi-step
regimens.
So there are.
You know, kids are seeinginfluencers and who they deem
are their peers online and, justlike what you said, they feel
like, oh, this is someone Ishould trust.
Or they're just constantlyseeing in social media so they
feel like, oh, this is somethingI should be doing.
(07:28):
But one huge thing that I seeis multi-step regimens.
That is harmful.
So I've seen kids doing 12steps in a routine, which who
knows how they're.
You know these products areinteracting, what sort of
benefit you can get, and reallyit's just a path to irritation.
(07:49):
But that's a huge one.
Also, the wrong products.
Kids shouldn't be usingproducts that have retinol, for
example.
So we'll very commonly seebreakouts, irritation, rashes,
when they're using theseproducts that just really are
not meant for them.
But to your point about wantingto vet sources, when I am
(08:11):
talking to parents or seeing mypatients with acne, I'm always
talking to them about like, whyare you using these products?
And when it comes up that youknow they've chosen this product
because of something thatthey've seen online, you know I
talk to both of them and try toeducate them and like, look,
this is a great opportunity tohave a discussion about how to
vet sources.
You know who should you begetting your information from in
(08:34):
terms of skincare, and you knowthat's probably dermatologists,
maybe cosmetic chemists, maybesome estheticians.
But you know it's not yourfriend or it's not this
influencer that's just gettingsent PR boxes so that they can
do these, get ready with mevideos and gain followers.
(08:54):
So I do.
I do like it for a conversationstarter in terms of helping
parents and kids understand howto vet sources.
Speaker 1 (09:03):
Right, yeah.
What's the intention behind whysomeone is doing something?
Is it to educate you and empoweryou to have healthy skin?
Is it just to sell you a bunchof stuff?
That's a good question to ask.
Okay, so, besides usingmultiple steps which can destroy
the skin barrier, which wedon't know how all the
ingredients interact with eachother?
(09:24):
This is so interesting to mebecause when I was 10, 12, and I
was babysitting, I would takeall of my money and buy skincare
and at the very most, I wouldbe able to afford one or two
products.
I don't even know how they'reaffording 12 products.
It seems kind of crazy.
The world we live in.
It's just changed so much,right?
Speaker 2 (09:45):
Yes, and I think you were ahead of your time.
I mean, if you were eveninterested in skincare, I mean
that's definitely not what I wasreally into spending my money
in.
But you're exactly right, it'sit's.
It's amazing now that thesebrands that have gone viral and
have these very expensiveproducts like Drunk Elephant,
for example, glow Recipe youknow they have expensive
products and parents are willingto buy them.
(10:07):
I guess or their kids areconvincing them or and they just
feel like that's a good way tospend their money.
I mean, it's just a veryinteresting twist, you know, on
what they're, what they'rewanting to spend their money on,
and it is definitely skincare.
I mean we've seen an explode.
There's been an explosion inthat segment of the Gen Alpha,
kids wanting to buy skincare andfragrance too.
Speaker 1 (10:29):
That's another big growing area, think so, I mean
obviously, as a parent, yousometimes want to, you know
purchase something your childwants.
Speaker 2 (10:49):
But a lot of times parents in my experience they
don't realize that there arenegative consequences of some of
these products that their childmight want.
But it's tough because, youknow, not every mom is a
dermatologist, so they're justgoing by like, oh, my kiddo saw
this, she wants it.
I mean, it's no different thanlike when I was growing up, and
(11:09):
you know there's popular kidsthat you know I was not the
popular one.
So it was like there are thesekids out there and you know they
have a cool brand of purse orjeans and I wanted that and you
know, maybe eventually I'dconvince my mom to get me one of
those things.
But those were not productsthat could hurt me.
You know that's a good point.
Speaker 1 (11:30):
Yeah, well, yeah, it can hurt your bank account, but
it doesn't hurt your body likemisusing skincare, right?
Yeah, that's really reallyinteresting.
I have boys, so I don't havethis problem at all.
I mean they're 18 and 20 now,so I don't have this problem at
all.
I mean they're 18 and 20 nowand at the very most, if I can
get them to use some likesalicylic acid pads to wash
their face, that was it.
You know, like really not anissue at all.
(11:57):
So okay, so what do what?
What's a basic skincare regimenfor someone who's, let's just
say, 10, 11, even as young as 10, 11, starting to get some acne
not so bad that they needprescriptions up until 15 or 16,
you know where they're notreally thinking about anti-aging
per se.
Like what is a basic regimen?
And like, how do you get themrolling on this?
Speaker 2 (12:16):
Yeah.
So I think that the products youwant to try to steer your kids
to in that age group arecleansers, moisturizers and
sunscreens.
They really do not need allthese ancillary products, these
facial mists that are popular,the serums I mean there may be
some of those things in thosecategories that are okay, but
(12:37):
largely you want to steer themto those categories.
So when I have parents who havekids that want certain brands,
I say, okay, if they really wantthat and you want to spend the
money on that, that's fine, butstick to those core categories
and then you can feel relativelysafe.
It's another conversation,though, about like are those
(13:01):
truly great products for theirskin?
Because a lot of these moretrendy products they have a lot
of potential allergens in themfragrances, essential oils,
things like this, which maybeare okay if there's a few.
But I mean you'll see some ofthese ingredient lists where
it's just way too many, I think,potential allergens than what a
(13:22):
child's skin needs to beexposed to.
So and then it's also talkingto them about how to use these
products.
So are they actually gettingthe benefit of cleansing their
face?
How should they cleanse?
Well, want to definitely besure they're using enough
product.
So again, that kind of dependsa little bit on the formulation,
but being sure that they'recleansing for 30 to 60 seconds
(13:45):
and then rinsing really well.
A lot of times when I talk tomy patients I end up finding out
they put it on barely, you know, barely enough, and then they
do it for like a split secondand then it's washed off.
I mean, so that is not enoughfor the cleanser to break down
the oil, get rid of the debris,to keep their skin healthy and
hopefully prevent thosebreakouts from worsening.
(14:08):
The other thing that we don'ttalk about enough is sunscreen.
I mean that is really the key,and I think all dermatologists
would agree with this.
That is really the key tokeeping the skin looking young,
keeping the skin barrier lookingnice and healthy, being able to
work optimally.
The skin looking young, keepingthe skin barrier looking nice
and healthy, being able to workoptimally, and that really those
are the.
That's the product that I wantto be viral and have all sorts
(14:30):
of viral brands of right,because that is definitely not
something that most of mypatients come in saying that
they use, and I think that isreally important, starting at a
young age.
How old were you when youstarted using sunscreen.
Oh my gosh.
I'm a terrible example becauseI was the person that worked in
a tanning salon when I was incollege and high school.
(14:54):
So now I spend all of my timesearching my skin for skin
cancers and trying to reversethe damage that I did right.
So I would say that my sonthough I have a 15-year-old son
I have really tried his entirelife to keep him covered.
You know understanding theimportance of sunscreen, but
it's a struggle in those teenyou know those years because
(15:17):
they're trying to be independent.
They don't understand theconsequences.
It's very hard to get themconsistent, but I think if you
can approach it like, your skinwill be clear.
If you have acne, this is animportant part of treatment
actually then you can make someheadway.
Speaker 1 (15:33):
Yeah, I think that's an important point because kids
don't think about consequences,like our brain is not fully
developed until we're 26.
So I'm constantly telling mysons I go, the reason we send
young men to war is becausesomebody will say, charge, and
you'll just go charge, I go.
You say that to a 30-year-oldman, they're going to be like
hold on, let's think about this.
If we charge, this might happenand this might happen.
(15:54):
So I think boys just get up,they run out the door and they
don't always think about puttingon skincare.
Meanwhile, having 6, 7, 8, 12steps in a skincare regimen is
almost a status symbol for girls.
It's sort of like the longevitylifestyle is a status symbol
for celebrities and you know,and that whole health
optimization world.
So it's an interestingdichotomy, for sure, when you're
(16:18):
looking at skincare products.
Okay, so I want to talk aboutthe cleanser first.
So with cleanser, are you anadvocate of twice-a-day
cleansing?
And if someone can only do itonce, what would you choose?
Speaker 2 (16:28):
Certainly if they can only do it once, it's bedtime.
Speaker 1 (16:31):
I agree, yeah.
Speaker 2 (16:32):
Yes, many reasons that that is important.
If they're willing to do ittwice, great, do it in the
morning.
I do think it's important, ifsomeone is struggling with early
acne starting to appear, thatthey should think about trying
to make that second morningcleanse happen.
Okay.
Speaker 1 (16:50):
And then why not retinol?
If someone is struggling withacne, especially comedones,
which are blackheads andwhiteheads, we have always gone
to retinoids.
Whether it's prescriptionstrength, always gone to
retinoids.
Speaker 2 (17:05):
Whether it's prescription strength tretinoin
or retinol, so why are you not?
I am only not retinoid.
If a child has normal skin, gotit Okay.
Speaker 1 (17:11):
That's important to hear.
Not everyone needs the sameskincare.
Speaker 2 (17:15):
Exactly.
Of course, this conversationabout avoiding active
ingredients like retinol, forexample, definitely means when a
child has normal skin, okay.
So certainly retinoids we useto treat acne, even at a young
age if it's indicated.
But most kids you know I'mtalking about the tween age
(17:37):
group, for example their skin isreally sensitive, so if their
skin is normal, it's notbreaking out.
They are going to reallystruggle to tolerate retinoids
and we know this asdermatologists too.
I mean a lot of times you'rehaving to implement, even in
adults, strategies to help thembe able to tolerate the retinoid
.
Right, you don't justnecessarily go and have someone
use it every day right out ofthe gate.
(17:57):
You might be doing, you know,alternating it, cycling it with
other, you know other products,so that maybe they're just using
it a couple times a week, forexample, and you're optimizing
moisturization so the skinbarrier stays healthy and
hydrated.
So but I will say like the mostsignificant reactions I've seen
(18:18):
from kids are when they areusing retinoid products.
Again, kids with normal skinwho come into me.
Their skin was fine, mom bringsthem in now because they have a
rash or they're breaking outhorribly and it is because they
just started using some kind ofretinol containing product that
they thought looked cool.
Speaker 1 (18:35):
Right, and they're using too much too often.
Too much too frequently andchanging things up so quickly.
Speaker 2 (18:41):
Right and they're not getting any benefit from it.
I mean, if their skin was clearbefore, we're not trying to
treat acne?
Kids have all the collagen theycan have at that age.
They don't need retinol to keeptheir collagen at that point
Not starting to break down untilthe 20s, 30s, potentially right
.
So they don't need it for thecollagen anti-aging benefit.
(19:02):
So it's just all risk, nobenefit in a kiddo with normal
skin.
Speaker 1 (19:05):
Yeah, totally agree.
I couldn't agree more.
Okay, what about vitamin C?
When do you think kids shouldstart vitamin C?
You think they should wait tilltheir 20s.
Is there really any benefit inyour teens to starting vitamin C
?
Speaker 2 (19:17):
So vitamin C can be a useful antioxidant in
sunscreens.
So I am not opposed to a childusing a sunscreen that has
antioxidant in it.
I think that's great.
But I think that there areproblems when a child uses
something like a 15% ascorbicacid, because that can be very
irritating and again, it's justnot something they're getting
(19:40):
any benefit from.
I mean, I guess it may bedifferent if they have a lot of
acne and they have pigment andmaybe you're trying to improve
that to some degree.
But again, I'm talking moreabout a child who has normal
skin and making the correctdecisions.
Speaker 1 (19:54):
you know for that group Okay so, tween normal skin
and making the correctdecisions you know for that
group.
Okay so, tween normal skin washin the morning.
Basically put I like people toput the cleanser on, massage it
in for about a minute, brushyour teeth and then rinse, and
then who should use moisturizer,who should not use moisturizer
and what should they look for ina moisturizer when they're a
tween?
Speaker 2 (20:13):
Yeah, so that's, and I'd also like to say that, like,
choosing a cleanser and amoisturizer should really both
be based on skin type and forkids, most of the time that's
going to be erring on the sideof products that are geared for
sensitive skin.
So in terms of a moisturizer,they're going to probably prefer
lighter weight products.
(20:34):
I mean just as a preferencepoint.
But looking for products, Imean in most major brands these
days they tell you really whatthe skin type is for.
So if they lean to normal, tosensitive skin, they can make
some good decisions.
What if it says all skin types?
I think all skin types isprobably acceptable too.
You just wouldn't want to gowith a product that says it's
(20:56):
for really oily or acne proneskin If you're a child and you
have normal skin.
Speaker 1 (21:02):
Okay, okay, that's really good.
So what is your moisturizer?
I have in it.
Speaker 2 (21:08):
My moisturizer is pretty simple.
It has glycerin primarily.
It has centella asiatica.
It has centella asiatica.
I love centella asiatica.
Speaker 1 (21:20):
I always struggle to pronounce.
Yeah, it's go to cola also.
It's been on my radar eversince I read an article, maybe
10 years ago, about how it canhelp reverse stretch marks,
because we don't have a lot ofthings in dermatology that help
put things back in the skinwe're really good with lasers
and we're good with things tolighten the skin and things to
remove pigmentation or, you know, remove dead skin cells, but we
(21:41):
have a hard time puttingelastic tissue or collagen back
in the skin right.
And there was it was I think itwas oral in that study they did
like a dropper full of Gotu-Colato help with striae which are
stretch marks.
But now we're seeing studieswith mandelic acid on centella
asiatica helping withdermatoporosis or thinning of
(22:01):
the collagen in the skin.
So I love centella asiatica.
It's such a great ingredientyeah, I know that's interesting.
Speaker 2 (22:07):
I didn't know that about the striae.
That's, that's interesting andit grows.
Speaker 1 (22:12):
This is really cool.
So where it grows in Africa,the tigers.
When tigers are wounded, theywill roll around in it to help
healing.
Speaker 2 (22:22):
I just learned this, yesterday actually.
Speaker 1 (22:26):
We probably saw it on the same place.
Was it an article or?
Speaker 2 (22:30):
it was somewhere I was actually at, an Elta MD
sunscreen talk and their newestsunscreen, the UV Skin Recovery,
has it in there and they weresharing that same story.
So very funny, I did not knowthat until yesterday, yeah.
Speaker 1 (22:46):
I heard it like a week or two ago.
I thought it was so interesting.
I mean, all the best things arein nature.
We just don't want to depletenature in finding these
resources, like we were talkingabout offline.
Okay, so you've got centellaasiatica.
Speaker 2 (22:57):
You've got glycerin, which is a very nice moisturizer
with low allergens, very lowallergens um, glucomannan is in
there, which is a supportive ofthe skin microbiome, and then
there is a very lowconcentration of niacinamide oh,
I love niacinamide, yeah, whichI think is great, but I do
(23:18):
think there are products forkids that are not appropriate
because they have too muchniacinamide, like you know.
Above 5%, I think, is a littleaggressive for kids.
It can be.
Speaker 1 (23:28):
It's so interesting because it can be inflammatory
when it's high percentage, butwhen it's low it's
anti-inflammatory.
Speaker 2 (23:34):
Anti inflammatory when it's high percentage, but
when it's low it'santi-inflammatory.
Speaker 1 (23:37):
Anti-inflammatory exactly and can be just like a
super gentle exfoliant, LikeGoldilocks, like more is not
better.
That's.
That's the main thing I thinkkids need to get out of this
conversation is more is notbetter.
It's just more irritating andit makes your skin more angry
and confused.
Speaker 2 (23:50):
Yeah, and then you know we are learning more and
more right about the damage thatchronic inflammation causes in
our body right and in our youknow, in our skin barrier as
well.
So, even if you're not seeinglike some kind of dramatic rash,
if you're using a product thatkind of is not appropriate for
(24:10):
your skin type you're young,you're using a retinol that you
don't need.
Maybe it's causing a little lowlevel like inflammation and
inflammation even and damage toyour collagen.
You know, we don't know theanswer to all of that, but I
think it's good practice to besure that you're using something
that's appropriate.
Okay, so niacinamide, centella,glycerin, glucomannan, those are
(24:32):
kind of the main ingredients inthe moisturizer Morning and
night, just night.
Speaker 1 (24:37):
What do you?
How do people know what to use?
Right, because a lot of acne oroily patients and even myself I
tend to be pretty oily I don'tuse a moisturizer during the day
.
Once in a while I'll use amoisturizer with kojic acid
because kojic acid can help withparticulate matter.
So if I'm in like a place ofhigh toxins or pollution, like
LA or New York, I willdefinitely put on a moisturizer
(24:59):
with kojic acid to kind of helpchelate that particulate matter.
But for the most part I tend torun oily so I don't use a
moisturizer during the day.
So I know that a lot ofteenagers they are hesitant to
use a moisturizer too.
Do you find it benefits theirskin to use a moisturizer, or
not.
Speaker 2 (25:17):
I mean, I definitely think everyone is everyone's
preference, and how it reacts ontheir skin is different.
I do think that they should bemoisturizing, probably at least
once a day, but maybe maybe it'sjust once a day.
And then too, I wonder and withyou as well, like if you're,
I'm sure you're using asunscreen every day, and so I
feel naked without a sunscreen.
Speaker 1 (25:39):
I would be more comfortable sitting here naked
with you than I would withoutsunscreen.
Speaker 2 (25:42):
I just wear tinted sunscreen and I'm lazy, so
that's my makeup.
Yeah, same.
But you know, depending on whatsunscreen you're using, it
might have a little bit of somemoisturizing and characteristic
too.
So, just because you're notusing a dedicated moisturizer,
you probably are getting I mean,most moisturizers, most
sunscreens now will have likesome element of moisturizing,
especially if you're like anadult woman using it.
For you know that last step.
(26:03):
So it may be that you'regetting a little bit of moisture
there in the morning, but Ithink you know.
Again, in terms of kids, Ithink the routine is also
important.
So you know, if they only wantto use their moisturizer at
night, that's fine, but I dothink that they should probably
be using it once a day.
I mean, they are washing theirface, they are exposing it to
(26:24):
the elements.
So I think a light moisturizeronce a day is usually helpful
and tolerated really well.
Speaker 1 (26:32):
So really it sounds like you're advocating three
steps, two to three steps.
So cleanse in the morning for60 to 90 to two minutes.
One to two minutes, basically,let the actives get in your
pores, remove the dead skincells, remove the dirt, remove
all the toxins that built up inyour skin for the day, and then
moisturizer and, if I find, ifsomeone's oily in their T-zone,
(26:54):
just apply it on the outside.
And the neck?
The neck is part of our facewhich people overlook.
Great point 30 years from now,our skin looks really different.
Right and then sunscreen.
So what do people look for inthe sunscreen?
Speaker 2 (27:06):
Yeah, so with the sunscreen, you know, I think for
younger skin there, and youknow there's a lot of
controversy about sunscreen andI don't know how much we want to
get into that.
But anything you want.
But I think you know mostparents feel more comfortable
with that.
I speak with with a mineralsunscreen and there are just
great formulations now that areprimarily zinc containing
(27:28):
sunscreen.
So that's usually what Irecommend.
But if someone is verysensitive to the feel of it
because, again, a sunscreen isonly as good as if it's actually
getting applied to the skin soI mean I think all of us will
generally tell patients whateveryou're willing to use is the
best sunscreen.
But, like for a kid who mightbe struggling with a little bit
(27:50):
of acne, maybe they don't likethe feel necessarily of a
mineral only sunscreen Althoughagain, there's so many great
ones out there now.
But a chemical sunscreen Ithink is fine If that's what
they're willing to use.
Speaker 1 (28:03):
Is SPF 70 better than SPF 30?
Speaker 2 (28:07):
You get the majority of protection in the SPF 30.
I generally say 30 is theminimum you want to use for
day-to-day use.
If you're going to be at thebeach, I do think you get a
little, or the pool here inArizona.
You do get a little bit moreincremental benefit if you bump
up to a higher SPF, but the bulkof that protection is happening
at 30.
Speaker 1 (28:26):
Yeah, because if it's applied correctly, it's
blocking 98% of the raise.
If it's applied correctly.
Speaker 2 (28:33):
And that's obviously another conversation about the
amount that you're using, theamount that you're.
You know the reapplicationfrequency that you're doing.
How do you recommend people?
Speaker 1 (28:43):
apply sunscreen.
I could tell you how Irecommend it Sure.
Okay.
So I typically over the years,especially when I lived and
worked in Colorado and Utahwhere we didn't have tinted
windows in the car they weren'tallowed.
So I saw tons of skin cancerson the left side of the face and
in men behind the ear, on theneck, which we still always do
right, because most of us whenwe apply sunscreen we put it on
(29:07):
centrally and blend it outwards,so it's thickest centrally and
then it kind of dissipates andwe get thinner amounts applied
outwards.
So I tend to like, whilesomeone's in their bra, apply it
starting at the base of theneck, bring it in from the
outside of the face to thecentral part of the face and
then you'll see the gaps on thecentral part of your face.
And I apply it all the way upto the eyelids, on the eyelids
(29:29):
to the eyelid margin, especiallygetting the area of the medial
canthus, like that area againstthe nose, because we know that
the sun coming in throughsunglasses will bounce off the
sunglasses and hit that area andwe see a lot of cancers there.
So we see these patterns onpeople year after year.
So we see the gaps of where thesunscreen was not applied
properly and people are gettinghit a little bit extra with more
(29:51):
dna mutations.
Um, so that's kind of how Irecommend people apply it and
then still wear a hat becauseit's a backup plan.
It's not.
It gives people sometimes afalse sense of security and then
they stay out in the sun longer.
So there's a little bit of acatch-22.
Speaker 2 (30:09):
Yeah, I know that's.
Those are all definitely goodpoints and very similar to what
I tell my patients.
I mean, when I'm in the mirrorapplying my sunscreen, I
definitely keep these thingsthat.
I mean you'll see me likeputting a ton of it on the upper
cutaneous lip because I see somuch, like you know, problems
there.
And like the eyelids, like yousaid, because people I think
don't realize that you should beprotecting those.
(30:31):
But yeah, that's definitely agood conversation to have and a
good strategy.
I like what you're, you knowwhat you're telling people.
It's similar.
But I do think we all probablysee those tendencies.
And then the hat is importanttoo, right, because I mean we
get a lot of exposure on thescalp and it's really hard to
protect that area.
(30:51):
I do always tell my patients youknow, kids too like the more
you can rely on just the sun,protective clothing and being
covered, because you know youdon't have to reapply that, you
don't have to worry about itbeing messy and getting all over
the place and then just try tofocus the sunscreen where you
can't cover.
But obviously there's stillareas that you have to use it on
(31:13):
and you're right, most peopledon't reapply it enough that you
have to use it on, and you'reright.
Most people don't reapply itenough, they don't put it on
thick enough.
We use it way too sparsely.
Women and kids if they're usinglike a tinted sunscreen, you
can't rely on that for enoughSPF because we don't layer on
our makeup to the extent that weneed to.
(31:34):
I think I said tinted sunscreen.
Tinted sunscreen is usuallyokay, but I mean, if you're
relying on foundation with SPF,you're not putting it on thick
enough to get that true SPFbenefit.
So I definitely prefer asunscreen first and then, you
know, foundation, if that's whatyou're going to do.
Speaker 1 (31:52):
Oh, that's great, I was going to ask you that.
Okay.
So tinted sunscreen is okayalone.
But if you're doing foundation,that's not okay alone, then do
tinted sunscreen first, then afoundation or any sunscreen,
then a foundation.
Exactly, okay Got it.
Exactly.
Okay, yeah, that's reallyreally.
Um, I lost my train of thought,but I was thinking of something
(32:12):
when you were talking that Iwas like, oh my gosh, that's
such a, that's such aneye-opening thing about, um,
with the makeup and the tintedsunscreen.
And I always tell, oh, Iremember.
I always tell the teenagerslike when they go, oh, I'm gonna
look so dorky when I go hikingwith my friends, I say, well,
it's better to look dorky onehour a day than it is to look
really bad for the rest of yourlife.
(32:32):
Then then you can look hot onthe weekends, right, when you
get dressed up.
Speaker 2 (32:37):
I know, but it is, it is so hard because, again, they
just can't, they, they reallystruggle.
We've already talked about this, but they just really struggle
to appreciate those consequences.
So trying to show them picturesof skin that's had way too much
exposure and you know skincancers removed and all this
stuff, and I mean you gotta, wegotta, keep trying, though,
(32:57):
right?
Speaker 1 (32:58):
yeah, so I mean.
I think, for anyone listening,though, the key important
components is to save your moneyand not get so many products,
because it just will lead toirritated, angry skin, and you
just need a couple steps in themorning.
And it's good to get thatroutine down, because as you get
older, you're going to wantmore for your skin.
So, cleanser, moisturizer,sunscreen in the morning,
(33:21):
cleanser, moisturizer at night,um, maybe add in a vitamin c in
the morning if you're in the sunor a high pollution area.
I don't love ellis, the gorbicacid.
I prefer, like thd, ascorbateor sodium ascorbyl phosphate or
a more stable form of vitamin C.
And what else Do they need?
Eye creams, any of that kind ofstuff?
Speaker 2 (33:40):
No, but I was going to say you know a lot of
sunscreens now they incorporatein an antioxidant like vitamin C
or vitamin E, so it may be thatyou don't necessarily have to
do, when you're younger, thatseparate vitamin C component, um
, but I do agree that youdefinitely.
If you're going to be usingvitamin c's, you probably want
(34:01):
those more uh stable, uh stableversions.
Speaker 1 (34:05):
Sorry, you asked me a question at the end and I
backtracked I was wondering ifthey like, if they need eye
cream, or if someone has acne,where do they put it in that
step?
Because it's often obvious tous to go from thinnest product
to thickest product.
I think it's not obvious formost people like what order of
steps to go in.
Speaker 2 (34:24):
Yeah, so I definitely do not think that kids
necessarily need a dedicated eyecream.
I honestly am not sure thatmost adults do.
I mean, a lot of times we canget those same ingredients that
are in our facial products andjust extend it up to include the
eyelid skin and the neck.
Speaker 1 (34:43):
And the chest, I agree 100%.
Speaker 2 (34:45):
I don't necessarily think you.
I mean unless, like you, havepuffiness and you want a
caffeine product that you knowyou don't have caffeine in the
rest of your skincare.
Maybe then it makes sense.
But I think that's a lot ofoverhyped, a lot, and kids
definitely don't need it.
In terms of order, like if a kidis starting to break out, I
think the most important thingsare to be sure that they're
(35:08):
dialed in with the consistency,okay, of cleansing and using
sunscreen, maybe moisturizer, ofcleansing and using sunscreen,
maybe moisturizer, depending onwhat's going on and what their
preferences are, but theconsistency of that for a while,
because a lot of times they'renot.
Maybe they're washing their faceonce a week, so it's dialing in
(35:28):
that consistency and then, ifthey're still having problems,
adding in actives that makesense for what's going on.
So let's say that they'restarting to get some, you know,
whiteheads and blackheads.
Maybe they want to add in acleanser that has salicylic acid
that still keeps it prettygentle but it's going to deep
(35:48):
clean those pores a little bitmore.
Maybe they want to do anover-the-counter retinoid that
is for acne, like a dappling ordifferin as the brand name, and
so that would go on after theycleanse and then before their
moisturizer.
Um, so those are two greatover-the-products
(36:10):
over-the-counter products that Iwill I think are fairly mild
and tolerable, that can beeasily added into skincare, a
skincare regimen for a kid who'sstarting to break out.
Speaker 1 (36:24):
Yeah, I agree.
I think that's a really goodpoint.
Okay, so let's do some mythbusters, yes, okay, what are the
top three things you hear aboutthat people have heard on
social media that are completelyfalse or more false than true?
Let's just say more false thantrue because we don't really
live in a world whereeverything's so black and white.
What do you think of red lightmasks?
(36:47):
Let's do that one.
Speaker 2 (36:49):
I was thinking.
That was the top thing thatcame to my head as I was
thinking of others.
I do think red light can behelpful, but I do think you have
to be really consistent with itand I do think the benefits are
fairly mild.
But I do think there's somereasonable evidence suggesting
some benefit with consistencywith a product that is
(37:11):
reasonably powered.
Speaker 1 (37:13):
I agree, I fully agree.
I mean to boost mitochondria.
It's just that the devicesaren't regulated and we don't
always know what's the rightdistance, what's the fluence,
what are the settings of the redlight?
I use a panel personallybecause I want to treat all my
body the same.
But there's a sweet spot, likethere's a biphasic curve, where
not enough red light will notstimulate mitochondria and then
(37:34):
too much will actually producetoo much reactive oxygen species
and then you're getting moreinflammation than you wanted in
the first place.
So I agree, I'm not a fan ofthe mask so much because my face
isn't separate from the rest ofme.
Speaker 2 (37:50):
Yeah, I mean, and at least if you're doing a mask,
you're treating your whole face.
I'm definitely not a fan ofthese wands that, like spot
treat an area.
Speaker 1 (37:55):
Tell me what that is about.
Speaker 2 (38:03):
I mean, I guess it's just a way to have a less
expensive product that still canbe sold as a red light.
Yeah, you can get these littlered lights that are just wands
that you, you know hold Maybeyou know hold to treat the
specific spots.
So I mean, imagine how longthat's going to take to like
treat your entire face if that'swhat you're trying to use it
for.
So, at least a mask, you'recovering a whole area.
But yeah, you can now getproducts that brands have, like
their neck version and theirhand gloves.
(38:25):
But I agree, the panel is nice,um, but those are obviously
more expensive.
Speaker 1 (38:30):
I've had the same one for five years and I haven't
replaced a light bulb yet.
Wow, that crazy.
And I do it every morning forabout 15 minutes.
Um, but I think it's a bonusadd-on.
I mean, we want to go back toprioritizing things, so probably
sunscreen and cleanser arealways going to be our top two
things, and then we add littlethings at a time.
(38:51):
These are not necessities.
They're sort of like dessertafter a healthy meal, right like
?
I don't think I wouldn'tprescribe red light for people,
for teens especially, you know,I just wouldn't, okay.
So what about derma rollers?
What do you think about dermarollers or at-home microneedling
devices?
Speaker 2 (39:07):
Not a fan.
Speaker 1 (39:08):
Of either, or just the derma roller.
Speaker 2 (39:12):
I am not a fan.
I think of either, butdefinitely not the roller.
I just think it introduces toomuch potential to tear your skin
and even with like the stampingversions of these, I think that
there's a lot of risk in termsof like cleaning it being sure
that there's, you know,infection risk is controlled.
(39:34):
It just makes me a little bitnervous.
Speaker 1 (39:37):
I agree, because what we're trying to do in these,
you probably get sent a lot.
I get sent a lot of thesethings.
Yeah, just to know we're tryingto do in these, you probably
get sent a lot.
I get sent a lot of thesethings.
Yeah, Just to know we're notselling out.
You know we can get paid a lotof money to advocate these
things and I just won't.
Because with microneedlingwe're doing controlled trauma in
the skin to stimulate collagen,but too much trauma is always
(39:59):
going to be a scar, which is why, like with laser treatments,
over the years I've seen so manypeople with terrible scarring
because they've had really badlasers.
So, while something can giveyou really good results, if it's
not done properly it can causescarring which is not really
reversible.
Um, okay, what about?
What about those cold rollers,those ice rollers?
Speaker 2 (40:22):
I'm okay with those as long as you're.
I mean again, there's alwaysrisk with everything that we do.
I mean you could certainlyreally traumatize your skin if
you hold one of those too longon a certain spot, but, you know
, for puffiness around the eyes.
I mean, I struggle with that.
So sometimes, if it's a morningand I'm getting up early, I'll
(40:43):
do a little bit of that.
Um, acne, I mean I do think ifyou have a really inflamed acne
bump, that it can be helpful.
Okay, um, and you know it's, Ithink it's pretty safe and easy.
Speaker 1 (40:54):
Um, so I am, I like those yeah, not so harmful and
maybe some results.
So we're really like anti-harm.
If there's a risk of harm we'rekind of against it.
Okay, yeah, I don't.
You know what I do forpuffiness, I just do I'll do 30
to 50 jumping jacks and drink abunch of water, cause I figured
that kind of stimulates mylymphatics.
Speaker 2 (41:14):
No, I mean I love that, but you know, if I'm like
trying to hurry up and get outthe door, or, you know, get on
camera for something right away.
It's like I just I need like afast fix.
I don't have the time to downthe water, but obviously very
important to stay hydrated andadequate sleep all of those
things too Right, I know alwayswhat about.
Speaker 1 (41:35):
I said we wouldn't have to go here.
But what about the salmon sperm?
I'm sorry, I think this is justso crazy.
Okay, what about salmon sperm?
Salmon sperm.
Speaker 2 (41:42):
I'm sorry, I think this is just so crazy.
Okay, what about salmon sperm?
You know, I think that it's itcould be helpful.
I mean, I definitely have seen,okay, so I don't use it.
I have not brought this into mypractice so I don't have any
like firsthand, like experiencewith patients.
But I do follow a lot of peoplewho use this in their practice
and do have patients who seem toreally like this a lot and it's
(42:02):
been a treatment over in Koreafor a really long time.
But it's hard to know because,like most of the time, it's used
in a very detailed regimen, youknow, and people who are
getting a lot of otherprocedures.
So, okay, great, they lookamazing, their skin is all glowy
, but what are the other thingsthat they're doing that are
(42:22):
contributing to it as well?
So that's tough to sort out.
But yeah, I mean I don'texactly know how they get it,
but you know it is an animalproduct.
I kind of think of myself as ananimal lover, so you know, I
mean I guess, from what Iunderstand very superficially,
that you know the salmon are nothurt in this procedure and they
(42:47):
can, like, continue to live.
So I'm not opposed to trying it, but I don't know that it's
like this kind of sea that youknow, currently it's just a big.
It's a huge viral trend.
Speaker 1 (43:02):
Yeah, yeah, I mean, I don't know.
I'm kind of curious to lean inand hear more.
Yeah, I think it's probablygoing to be a trend that comes
and goes a little bit or is usedin conjunction with other
things.
I think if I had a daughter orif I had a certain amount of
money, I'd probably direct myfunds towards something else at
this point.
It's kind of how I look at it.
But I'm just not a absolutelynot sort of person.
(43:25):
I just that's why I wanted toask you, because you're you're
definitely more on the cuttingedge of trends than I am.
Speaker 2 (43:30):
Yeah, I think that's that's a good, that's a good
summary of it.
You know, I mean, I do thinkthat if it's kind of like the
red light, like if you're doingeverything else and you know
you're getting maybe a moreaggressive laser procedure every
once in a while and you'rereally, uh, dialed in on your
skincare, you know, maybe, andyou're getting microneedling and
maybe you want, you know, everyonce in a while, to have that
microneedled in, oh, okay, maybeif you're comfortable with the
(43:53):
source yeah, I mean for teens.
Speaker 1 (43:55):
We're looking at instilling a regimen and a
routine for you to start takingcare of yourself.
That's not complicated, that'snot going to hurt you as an
adult.
We're doing a little bit moreproactive things for targeting
pigmentation or aging and that'swhere, like red light and
exosomes, I find help, healingpost-procedures.
Yet I cycle them in and out ofthe routine and the rituals.
(44:19):
So okay.
So if a teenager has, say,their parents give them $150
budget a month, how should theyuse it?
Speaker 2 (44:31):
Well, I think, if they're sticking to the
Obviously on your skincare.
Yeah Well, I initially was goingto say that and then I didn't
want to say that, which is stillwould not cost that much money.
I initially was going to saythat and then I didn't want to
say that, which still would notcost that much money.
But you know, I think that itwould be hard to spend that much
money.
If we stayed in the confines ofmy recommendations of a
(44:52):
cleanser, moisturizer andsunscreen, I would love to say,
maybe do what I do and buy likemultiple sunscreens because I
think that's fun.
Right, you have tinted ones,you have untinted ones, you have
different brands that havedifferent feels, they layer
differently.
So you know, maybe work on yoursunscreen collection, but in
terms of like other things thatthey might want to do, I guess
(45:13):
is what you're asking.
Like what other things beyondthe typical regimen is what
you're asking.
Speaker 1 (45:21):
Yeah, like.
Are there supplements?
Yeah, are regimen is whatyou're asking.
Yeah, like, are theresupplements?
Are there foods?
Are there devices?
Are there any other thingsoutside of just the topical
skincare we talked about?
That someone can do whenthey're younger that will help
them have good skin throughouttheir lifetime.
Speaker 2 (45:35):
So I do think it's reasonable to start a polypodium
supplement, and I did recentlyread an article or saw something
published about the youngestage that it was studied in, and
now I can't remember off the topof my head, but I want to say
it was like about six, it wasyoung, it was four to seven.
Was it four to seven?
Speaker 1 (45:55):
Yes, somewhere in there.
It was fine.
It's a fern extract, polypodiumleucotomus.
We've talked about it beforewith Dr Katie Varmann.
There's two dermatologists thatmake supplements that I know
about containing polypodium.
There's Inner Glow Vitamins andthen Soul Care MD that are made
by Dr Noreen Gallaria and thenDr Katie Varmann, and they're
(46:15):
both very, very intentionalabout the way they created these
supplements, and one of them isa gummy, which you know it's
easier for the teens to take Ifind my boys will take that and
the other one's a capsule, andthen one of them is like a hard
pill.
So but go ahead with thepolypodium like, take it every
(46:37):
day.
Speaker 2 (46:37):
Yeah, I think take it every day is totally reasonable
, definitely in the summermonths, and maybe that makes
sense in like the Midwest orsomething where there's, you
know, less sun exposure.
But again, I think it's aroutine thing, just like the
sunscreen.
Like I'm never going to reallytell someone that they should
stop at certain times of theyear because then you just fall
out of the habit.
So I think it's a reasonableevery day one to take In terms
(47:03):
of like other supplements.
I mean I definitely am anadvocate of certain other
supplements for adults, but likefor kids, that's probably as
far as I go, unless there'ssomething we're trying to
address.
So if someone is having acneand maybe they don't have the
best diet, I mean of course I dotalk to them about ways to
change their nutrition, improvetheir gut health, but I may
recommend a probiotic, forexample, um which?
Speaker 1 (47:26):
which probiotic do you like for acne?
Speaker 2 (47:28):
So I?
There's one on Amazon, whichI'm not going to be able to
remember the name of, but theone I have in the off in my
office is from face reality andit has the typical um bacteria
that were generally studied Umthe um.
I'm going to blank on these nowtoo.
Speaker 1 (47:46):
Like lactobacillus remnosus the remnosus.
Speaker 2 (47:49):
And then there's one other one, but it contains both
of those.
So I will usually recommendthat if we're, particularly if
someone has like a kind of a notgreat diet, you know, lots of
processed foods, lots of sugaryfoods, I will obviously talk to
them about that but thenencourage a probiotic.
Yeah, I agree, if someone has,you know, is struggling with
(48:10):
rosacea, for example, I mayrecommend like an omega-3
supplement and, you know, maybethere's other things too, but
those are sort of like the forsure supplements that I might
suggest with somebody.
I'd love to know your take, ifyou know about this Skin Better
supplement that just launched.
Speaker 1 (48:30):
I saw that.
I saw that and I saw there wasa five-part series that a bunch
of people like, from DrVallocchi to I'm blanking on her
name- oh my gosh that she doesall Dr Vallocchi to.
Speaker 2 (48:47):
I'm blanking on her name um uh.
Speaker 1 (48:48):
Oh my gosh that she does all.
Dr Zoe, yeah, she's been.
You know, she has such aninteresting background as a
chemist and I am reallyintrigued with it.
Actually, I'm really intrigued.
The price point's a little highfor me to want to commit at
this point, because I do take alot of supplements.
I am intrigued, you know.
I'm always a little hesitant,though, like regarding some of
the studies that people set upto be perfect for them.
Speaker 2 (49:10):
Yeah, no, I mean that is true, I mean, of course,
they show like really beautifulimages of, you know, decreased
evidence of the glycation ofcollagen and like these biopsies
.
But I think it's reallyinteresting and, if it does work
, not only implications reallyfor the skin and maintaining our
collagen there, but I mean, whywouldn't it help collagen and
(49:30):
the rest of our body?
Speaker 1 (49:31):
Exactly Like I love the inside out approach and I
think we really never.
We always believe there was noway to reverse glycation.
So I always think of it as likeour body starts to cook from
the inside out from the minutewe're born and it's just a
matter of how slow we can cookit right.
So the fact that maybe we canreverse some of this glycation,
where the sugar the glycation,by the way is just when sugar
(49:51):
molecules bind with differentproteins in our body, whether
it's a blood vessel or thecollagen in our skin, and it
makes it really rigid and stiffand that's why people end up
with deep creases rather thanthe resiliency of the skin.
So if there's a way to reversethat, that's game changing.
I will probably try it, becauseI end up trying almost all of
them.
I've tried the supplements withVitamedico, with Glycidin Skin
(50:14):
from years ago.
There's just so many I've triedover the years that I will
probably try it.
I'm I'm just more of a learnerobserver for a little while.
Try it for a little while andthen things will disappear or
stick around at that point.
Speaker 2 (50:28):
Yeah, no, I'm, I started taking it Um have you
noticed anything?
I don't.
It's hard to say I mean, Idon't know.
I do all these other things too, so it's so hard to know like
do you want to buy FC your skin?
Um, but to your point, I mean Ido have some patients that are
on it, but to your point, it islike expensive and it's really
(50:49):
interesting the way that and andI have not seen like a reason
or chatted with with somebody ontheir team to like get the
exact reasoning of this.
But you know, you really starthigh dose, like six pills a day
for a month and then you go downto four pills a day.
Um, so I mean you go through alot of supplement to get, you
(51:10):
know, amped up on this and Idon't know, do you have to do
that?
Like, is there some reason thatyou have to do that?
Because that's a lot of money,uh to to go through a lot of
pills and a lot of pills.
I mean there's no problem.
I mean they're easy to, they'recapsules, they're very, they're
small, they go down easily.
It's not a problem, but it'sjust it's.
It's a lot of money,particularly at that beginning.
(51:30):
How?
Speaker 1 (51:31):
okay, so how what's the mechanism?
Of action.
I'm blanking on it.
So it's a rosemary, it's a awayfrom thinking.
Maybe if I just add morerosemary to my food Right?
Speaker 2 (51:43):
I don't know, I don't know, but they do say that it
is a specific extract and youknow they had to go through this
special process to distill it,and but I don't know beyond that
.
Speaker 1 (51:56):
But yeah, I don't know either.
I mean, it goes back to thefact that our skin is an inside
out job whether it's screamingat us because we have some
inflammation going on internally, as you mentioned earlier, or
whether we can potentially makeour skin look better by doing
something from the inside.
The easiest thing is food, justhaving good food choices.
So I mean, I love all that.
(52:17):
This is a great discussion.
I think we're going to beevolving more towards an
inside-out approach, and Istudied nutrition undergrad so
I've always had that kind ofinterest and, um, what I learned
was basically opposite of whatwe believe now and we're ever
evolving.
It was the low fat, high carbphase, and you know our skin is
a bilipid membrane.
Why would we not want to havehealthy fats, but unhealthy fats
(52:39):
will will do things as as well.
So, yeah, it's just, it'sreally really interesting.
Okay, so what else?
What else do you recommend?
Anything else that I didn'ttouch on?
Speaker 2 (52:47):
Oh my gosh.
We talked about so many things.
Speaker 1 (52:51):
Right.
Speaker 2 (52:52):
Oh, um, well, one other um, I don't know, it was
not actually a myth, but a trendthat I would love to chat about
and ask if you've heard of thisis you're aware, I'm sure
you're aware of the UV index,and so, for people listening,
the UV index takes into accountyour location, the elevation of
(53:18):
where you are, the temperature,and tells you the rate of UV
exposure you're getting on ascale of one to ten, with one
being the lowest and ten beingthe highest.
Well, obviously, it was createdso that we can understand oh,
this is a time where you mightneed to be more protected.
You know you'd want to be morecareful if you're outside
(53:38):
because you're going to begetting more radiation from the
sun.
Well, kids, now they are usingthis, I like to say, for evil.
There is this huge push I meanit's all over social media Kids
using this like that's when theywant to go outside to tan.
So they will call.
I mean parents post about thislike their kid will call from
(53:59):
you know high school and be likeI got to come home, the UV is
going to be eight today.
I got to work on my tan, soit's just I wanted to point out
that trend to let, to let peopleknow that's not what we should
be doing for the UV index.
Speaker 1 (54:13):
That's so interesting .
I didn't think tans were trendyanymore.
Speaker 2 (54:16):
Oh my gosh, they are so trendy.
There is this huge backlashagainst sunscreen, for a lot of
reasons, I think.
But yeah, people are againstsunscreen.
They are against smart sunprotection measures, unless I
think they have someone you know, a trusted source that they can
(54:36):
go to, or a parent that'sreally into this.
But yeah, there's this hugesurge in tanning now and
avoiding sunscreen.
Speaker 1 (54:43):
Well, if you were tanning, you might as well not
use any skincare.
I just want to say that that'sridiculous.
I mean, I did it.
I didn't wear sunscreen until Iwas 30.
Speaker 2 (54:51):
And.
Speaker 1 (54:51):
I remember when it first came out I was like ew,
why would anyone want to usethat?
I specifically go in the sun toget a tan.
That's the main reason, and nowI regret it, now that I know
what I know.
You know, but it's.
It's almost reckless knowingwhat we know now.
It's sort of like my mom smokedwhen she was pregnant with me.
She goes we didn't know anybetter, but now we know better,
so you can't unknow what youalready know.
(55:13):
So now that you're hearing thisfrom us, you know better and
you can't unknow what youalready know.
So, whether it's the sun causingdried skin cells that are going
to clog your pores and causemore acne might look better for
like a day or two, but then itends up rebounding and look
worse or wrinkles down the roadjust watch the movie Something
About Mary and you'll know whatwe're talking about.
(55:34):
Anyway, I love having you on,dr Jeffy.
I feel like we could talk allday, but I really want everyone
to be able to find your websiteand follow you on social.
You have so many greateducational things, so can you
let everyone know how to findyou?
Speaker 2 (55:47):
Yes.
So on socials, my handle is atBrooke Jeffy MD and I am on
TikTok and Instagram, and ifyou're local to Scottsdale,
check out my practice website,which is Brooke Jeffy MD dot com
.
Speaker 1 (56:01):
We will have it all in the show notes, thank you,
thank you.
Thank you for joining us onListen to your Skin by Moon and
Skin.
It's an honor to be part ofyour skincare journey and if you
love this episode, make sure tosubscribe.
Leave us a glowing review andshare it with someone who's
passionate about their skincarejourney, and please connect with
us on social to ask yourquestions, which will drive
(56:22):
future educational episodes.
Welcome to Listen to your Skin by Moon Skin, the
podcast where science meetsnature to celebrate the story of
your skin.
Your skin is a living canvas,ever evolving, deeply personal
and uniquely yours.
Each week, we'll dive into thescience of healthy skin, share
empowering stories and uncovertransformative self-care rituals
.
We're here to help you embraceevery phase of your journey with
(00:22):
confidence and care.
Hi everyone, welcome to thisweek's episode of Listen to your
Skin podcast by Moon and Skin.
I'm your host, dr Jen Haley, andtoday on the podcast I have a
friend and colleague, dr BrookeJeffy.
She is a fellow board-certifieddermatologist with a very
unique practice.
She has a concierge medicaldermatology and cosmetic
(00:44):
practice in Scottsdale, arizona,where she applies her holistic
approach to skin health.
Dr Jeffy's particularlypassionate about treating
adolescent skin and creatingroutines for a lifetime of
healthy skin, and this is whatled her to found the company
Between B-T-W-N.
It's a skincare line for tweensand teens.
(01:06):
She's a trusted media expert,mom, and loves all things
dermatology and skincare.
Welcome to the show, brooke.
Thank you so much for having me.
Yeah, I'm so glad to have you,so I know you're here in
Scottsdale, I know you have agood practice and you have a
great social media platformwhere you educate people.
What drove you to create theskincare line between and have a
(01:28):
passion for educating?
Speaker 2 (01:29):
Yeah, so there's really a lot of factors that
came together to leading to this.
So one thing is that in myemployed practice, before I
launched my own practice, Istarted to feel very much like I
wasn't able to educate mypatients on some of the things
that seem simple but really makea huge difference.
(01:51):
Like I'll give an example, if Iwas seeing an acne patient, a
younger patient, it's very easyto say, okay, let's start you on
this medical regimen and thenjust be sure you wash your face.
But how were they washing theirface?
Are they actually washing theirface?
Are they actually washing theirface?
Are they getting any benefitfrom doing that?
Taking enough time to do it?
So there started to be all theselifestyle factors that I began
(02:13):
to appreciate and that's justone simple example, but other
things too, that I felt like asI was learning more about
lifestyle factors and theirapplication to skin health that
I wasn't able to address in, youknow, short appointment times.
So that really led me to wantto create a brand, which between
(02:33):
initially sort of just startedout as going to be an
educational brand, to try toteach kids some things about
lifestyle and how to wash theirface and how to, you know,
parents to help them choose theright products.
And then it kind of evolved asI saw more and more patients and
parents asking me well, whatshould I use?
Like we used to say, okay, goget a Cetaphil cleanser, for
(02:55):
example.
There weren't that manyproducts that they had, but as
they've grown they have multipledifferent lines and it's just
more and more confusing forparents to figure out what to
purchase.
So I saw this white space in themarket.
There are certainly now in thelast couple years, a handful of
brands like myself that havereally been focused on teen and
(03:16):
tween skin health that have cometo market, but at that time
there really wasn't anythingthat was specific.
So that's really what promptedme to think, okay, there is this
white space as well.
Let's do the education pieceand let me see if I can provide
some products that really makeit simple for parents to know
(03:37):
that these products that theywould come to me for as a brand
are okay for their young kids'skin and trustworthy.
I have chosen to a certainbeauty standard in skincare
called Credo for clean beauty.
As well as just avoiding thewhole discussion about hormone
(03:58):
disruptors, I just whether ornot that's true or not chose to
leave those out of my products.
So again, just parents couldfeel comfortable with it.
Speaker 1 (04:07):
Okay, let's talk about clean beauty a little bit,
because it's a term that'sthrown around, so what do people
use it as?
How do they differentiatewhether somebody's just throwing
the term clean beauty versuswhether it's really a clean
product?
Speaker 2 (04:20):
Well, I think all of it is just throwing a term
around, because there is nostandard definition of clean
beauty.
There are some, so there's nofully 100% agreed upon standard.
Now, I mentioned that with myskincare line we did choose to
go along with one company'sstandard.
So there are a couple of thesegroups that are trying to make a
(04:43):
standard definition and one ofthem is Credo Beauty.
So we did decide with Betweento, you know, follow those
standards.
But those are still just kindof you know, arbitrary standards
out there that have to beagreed upon.
So a company can mean anything.
It can mean referring to theiringredients that they're
defining as clean, whether ornot that's true or not.
(05:04):
It can refer to, like, theirsustainability practices.
So the bottom line is it cankind of mean anything to the
brand.
Speaker 1 (05:12):
Right, yeah, so okay.
So what, how do you spell Credo?
C-r-e-d-o?
So they would look for that onthe label.
Speaker 2 (05:20):
Yes, there are some brands that would say that
they're Credo beauty compliant.
Credo is also a website andthey sell brands that meet their
standards.
Speaker 1 (05:29):
Okay, and how is that different from like Leaping
Bunny standards?
Speaker 2 (05:33):
So Leaping Bunny is more of a cruelty-free standard,
at least from what I understand.
That's how I understand it too.
Speaker 1 (05:40):
Yeah so there's cruelty-free.
Speaker 2 (05:42):
That's another certification that a brand might
put forth as something thatthey feel is important.
Yeah, so there's cruelty free.
That's another, you know,certification that a brand might
put forth as something thatthey feel is important.
Speaker 1 (05:49):
Okay.
I think that's so important forpeople to hear about clean
beauty because it's so easy tojust pronounce that you're all
of these things.
I mean we see it all the timeas dermatologists.
I was blown away when I was atthe Science of Skincare Summit
last year and realized that Ithink about 17% of social media
information is coming fromdermatologists.
And just for those of you whodon't know, we went to high
(06:12):
school, then four years ofcollege, four years of medical
school, four years of juststudying skin, basically, and
then years and years ofpracticing just skin.
And someone can give outinformation nowadays and people
say, oh, I saw it on theinternet.
I'm like what in the world?
I mean, the first thing Ilearned in college was to look
at the source, and no one'slooking at the source anymore.
Like, who are people gettinginformation from and why would
(06:35):
we trust it?
Like, what's their background?
I mean, over 20 years, I'veseen so many trends come and go,
so I get it.
It's really hard as adermatologist who's in such a
busy practice, but when you seepeople following good guidelines
and good science-backedskincare regimens and then
they're destroying their skin athome with other things that
(06:55):
they find online, it can bequite disturbing.
So what are some of thosethings that you see people doing
, or that you saw some of thetweens and the teens doing that
were disrupting your acnerecommendations?
Speaker 2 (07:07):
Sure, I mean, one thing is just multi-step
regimens.
So there are.
You know, kids are seeinginfluencers and who they deem
are their peers online and, justlike what you said, they feel
like, oh, this is someone Ishould trust.
Or they're just constantlyseeing in social media so they
feel like, oh, this is somethingI should be doing.
(07:28):
But one huge thing that I seeis multi-step regimens.
That is harmful.
So I've seen kids doing 12steps in a routine, which who
knows how they're.
You know these products areinteracting, what sort of
benefit you can get, and reallyit's just a path to irritation.
(07:49):
But that's a huge one.
Also, the wrong products.
Kids shouldn't be usingproducts that have retinol, for
example.
So we'll very commonly seebreakouts, irritation, rashes,
when they're using theseproducts that just really are
not meant for them.
But to your point about wantingto vet sources, when I am
(08:11):
talking to parents or seeing mypatients with acne, I'm always
talking to them about like, whyare you using these products?
And when it comes up that youknow they've chosen this product
because of something thatthey've seen online, you know I
talk to both of them and try toeducate them and like, look,
this is a great opportunity tohave a discussion about how to
vet sources.
You know who should you begetting your information from in
(08:34):
terms of skincare, and you knowthat's probably dermatologists,
maybe cosmetic chemists, maybesome estheticians.
But you know it's not yourfriend or it's not this
influencer that's just gettingsent PR boxes so that they can
do these, get ready with mevideos and gain followers.
(08:54):
So I do.
I do like it for a conversationstarter in terms of helping
parents and kids understand howto vet sources.
Speaker 1 (09:03):
Right, yeah.
What's the intention behind whysomeone is doing something?
Is it to educate you and empoweryou to have healthy skin?
Is it just to sell you a bunchof stuff?
That's a good question to ask.
Okay, so, besides usingmultiple steps which can destroy
the skin barrier, which wedon't know how all the
ingredients interact with eachother?
(09:24):
This is so interesting to mebecause when I was 10, 12, and I
was babysitting, I would takeall of my money and buy skincare
and at the very most, I wouldbe able to afford one or two
products.
I don't even know how they'reaffording 12 products.
It seems kind of crazy.
The world we live in.
It's just changed so much,right?
Speaker 2 (09:45):
Yes, and I think you were ahead of your time.
I mean, if you were eveninterested in skincare, I mean
that's definitely not what I wasreally into spending my money
in.
But you're exactly right, it'sit's.
It's amazing now that thesebrands that have gone viral and
have these very expensiveproducts like Drunk Elephant,
for example, glow Recipe youknow they have expensive
products and parents are willingto buy them.
(10:07):
I guess or their kids areconvincing them or and they just
feel like that's a good way tospend their money.
I mean, it's just a veryinteresting twist, you know, on
what they're, what they'rewanting to spend their money on,
and it is definitely skincare.
I mean we've seen an explode.
There's been an explosion inthat segment of the Gen Alpha,
kids wanting to buy skincare andfragrance too.
Speaker 1 (10:29):
That's another big growing area, think so, I mean
obviously, as a parent, yousometimes want to, you know
purchase something your childwants.
Speaker 2 (10:49):
But a lot of times parents in my experience they
don't realize that there arenegative consequences of some of
these products that their childmight want.
But it's tough because, youknow, not every mom is a
dermatologist, so they're justgoing by like, oh, my kiddo saw
this, she wants it.
I mean, it's no different thanlike when I was growing up, and
(11:09):
you know there's popular kidsthat you know I was not the
popular one.
So it was like there are thesekids out there and you know they
have a cool brand of purse orjeans and I wanted that and you
know, maybe eventually I'dconvince my mom to get me one of
those things.
But those were not productsthat could hurt me.
You know that's a good point.
Speaker 1 (11:30):
Yeah, well, yeah, it can hurt your bank account, but
it doesn't hurt your body likemisusing skincare, right?
Yeah, that's really reallyinteresting.
I have boys, so I don't havethis problem at all.
I mean they're 18 and 20 now,so I don't have this problem at
all.
I mean they're 18 and 20 nowand at the very most, if I can
get them to use some likesalicylic acid pads to wash
their face, that was it.
You know, like really not anissue at all.
(11:57):
So okay, so what do what?
What's a basic skincare regimenfor someone who's, let's just
say, 10, 11, even as young as 10, 11, starting to get some acne
not so bad that they needprescriptions up until 15 or 16,
you know where they're notreally thinking about anti-aging
per se.
Like what is a basic regimen?
And like, how do you get themrolling on this?
Speaker 2 (12:16):
Yeah.
So I think that the products youwant to try to steer your kids
to in that age group arecleansers, moisturizers and
sunscreens.
They really do not need allthese ancillary products, these
facial mists that are popular,the serums I mean there may be
some of those things in thosecategories that are okay, but
(12:37):
largely you want to steer themto those categories.
So when I have parents who havekids that want certain brands,
I say, okay, if they really wantthat and you want to spend the
money on that, that's fine, butstick to those core categories
and then you can feel relativelysafe.
It's another conversation,though, about like are those
(13:01):
truly great products for theirskin?
Because a lot of these moretrendy products they have a lot
of potential allergens in themfragrances, essential oils,
things like this, which maybeare okay if there's a few.
But I mean you'll see some ofthese ingredient lists where
it's just way too many, I think,potential allergens than what a
(13:22):
child's skin needs to beexposed to.
So and then it's also talkingto them about how to use these
products.
So are they actually gettingthe benefit of cleansing their
face?
How should they cleanse?
Well, want to definitely besure they're using enough
product.
So again, that kind of dependsa little bit on the formulation,
but being sure that they'recleansing for 30 to 60 seconds
(13:45):
and then rinsing really well.
A lot of times when I talk tomy patients I end up finding out
they put it on barely, you know, barely enough, and then they
do it for like a split secondand then it's washed off.
I mean, so that is not enoughfor the cleanser to break down
the oil, get rid of the debris,to keep their skin healthy and
hopefully prevent thosebreakouts from worsening.
(14:08):
The other thing that we don'ttalk about enough is sunscreen.
I mean that is really the key,and I think all dermatologists
would agree with this.
That is really the key tokeeping the skin looking young,
keeping the skin barrier lookingnice and healthy, being able to
work optimally.
The skin looking young, keepingthe skin barrier looking nice
and healthy, being able to workoptimally, and that really those
are the.
That's the product that I wantto be viral and have all sorts
(14:30):
of viral brands of right,because that is definitely not
something that most of mypatients come in saying that
they use, and I think that isreally important, starting at a
young age.
How old were you when youstarted using sunscreen.
Oh my gosh.
I'm a terrible example becauseI was the person that worked in
a tanning salon when I was incollege and high school.
(14:54):
So now I spend all of my timesearching my skin for skin
cancers and trying to reversethe damage that I did right.
So I would say that my sonthough I have a 15-year-old son
I have really tried his entirelife to keep him covered.
You know understanding theimportance of sunscreen, but
it's a struggle in those teenyou know those years because
(15:17):
they're trying to be independent.
They don't understand theconsequences.
It's very hard to get themconsistent, but I think if you
can approach it like, your skinwill be clear.
If you have acne, this is animportant part of treatment
actually then you can make someheadway.
Speaker 1 (15:33):
Yeah, I think that's an important point because kids
don't think about consequences,like our brain is not fully
developed until we're 26.
So I'm constantly telling mysons I go, the reason we send
young men to war is becausesomebody will say, charge, and
you'll just go charge, I go.
You say that to a 30-year-oldman, they're going to be like
hold on, let's think about this.
If we charge, this might happenand this might happen.
(15:54):
So I think boys just get up,they run out the door and they
don't always think about puttingon skincare.
Meanwhile, having 6, 7, 8, 12steps in a skincare regimen is
almost a status symbol for girls.
It's sort of like the longevitylifestyle is a status symbol
for celebrities and you know,and that whole health
optimization world.
So it's an interestingdichotomy, for sure, when you're
(16:18):
looking at skincare products.
Okay, so I want to talk aboutthe cleanser first.
So with cleanser, are you anadvocate of twice-a-day
cleansing?
And if someone can only do itonce, what would you choose?
Speaker 2 (16:28):
Certainly if they can only do it once, it's bedtime.
Speaker 1 (16:31):
I agree, yeah.
Speaker 2 (16:32):
Yes, many reasons that that is important.
If they're willing to do ittwice, great, do it in the
morning.
I do think it's important, ifsomeone is struggling with early
acne starting to appear, thatthey should think about trying
to make that second morningcleanse happen.
Okay.
Speaker 1 (16:50):
And then why not retinol?
If someone is struggling withacne, especially comedones,
which are blackheads andwhiteheads, we have always gone
to retinoids.
Whether it's prescriptionstrength, always gone to
retinoids.
Speaker 2 (17:05):
Whether it's prescription strength tretinoin
or retinol, so why are you not?
I am only not retinoid.
If a child has normal skin, gotit Okay.
Speaker 1 (17:11):
That's important to hear.
Not everyone needs the sameskincare.
Speaker 2 (17:15):
Exactly.
Of course, this conversationabout avoiding active
ingredients like retinol, forexample, definitely means when a
child has normal skin, okay.
So certainly retinoids we useto treat acne, even at a young
age if it's indicated.
But most kids you know I'mtalking about the tween age
(17:37):
group, for example their skin isreally sensitive, so if their
skin is normal, it's notbreaking out.
They are going to reallystruggle to tolerate retinoids
and we know this asdermatologists too.
I mean a lot of times you'rehaving to implement, even in
adults, strategies to help thembe able to tolerate the retinoid
.
Right, you don't justnecessarily go and have someone
use it every day right out ofthe gate.
(17:57):
You might be doing, you know,alternating it, cycling it with
other, you know other products,so that maybe they're just using
it a couple times a week, forexample, and you're optimizing
moisturization so the skinbarrier stays healthy and
hydrated.
So but I will say like the mostsignificant reactions I've seen
(18:18):
from kids are when they areusing retinoid products.
Again, kids with normal skinwho come into me.
Their skin was fine, mom bringsthem in now because they have a
rash or they're breaking outhorribly and it is because they
just started using some kind ofretinol containing product that
they thought looked cool.
Speaker 1 (18:35):
Right, and they're using too much too often.
Too much too frequently andchanging things up so quickly.
Speaker 2 (18:41):
Right and they're not getting any benefit from it.
I mean, if their skin was clearbefore, we're not trying to
treat acne?
Kids have all the collagen theycan have at that age.
They don't need retinol to keeptheir collagen at that point
Not starting to break down untilthe 20s, 30s, potentially right
.
So they don't need it for thecollagen anti-aging benefit.
(19:02):
So it's just all risk, nobenefit in a kiddo with normal
skin.
Speaker 1 (19:05):
Yeah, totally agree.
I couldn't agree more.
Okay, what about vitamin C?
When do you think kids shouldstart vitamin C?
You think they should wait tilltheir 20s.
Is there really any benefit inyour teens to starting vitamin C
?
Speaker 2 (19:17):
So vitamin C can be a useful antioxidant in
sunscreens.
So I am not opposed to a childusing a sunscreen that has
antioxidant in it.
I think that's great.
But I think that there areproblems when a child uses
something like a 15% ascorbicacid, because that can be very
irritating and again, it's justnot something they're getting
(19:40):
any benefit from.
I mean, I guess it may bedifferent if they have a lot of
acne and they have pigment andmaybe you're trying to improve
that to some degree.
But again, I'm talking moreabout a child who has normal
skin and making the correctdecisions.
Speaker 1 (19:54):
you know for that group Okay so, tween normal skin
and making the correctdecisions you know for that
group.
Okay so, tween normal skin washin the morning.
Basically put I like people toput the cleanser on, massage it
in for about a minute, brushyour teeth and then rinse, and
then who should use moisturizer,who should not use moisturizer
and what should they look for ina moisturizer when they're a
tween?
Speaker 2 (20:13):
Yeah, so that's, and I'd also like to say that, like,
choosing a cleanser and amoisturizer should really both
be based on skin type and forkids, most of the time that's
going to be erring on the sideof products that are geared for
sensitive skin.
So in terms of a moisturizer,they're going to probably prefer
lighter weight products.
(20:34):
I mean just as a preferencepoint.
But looking for products, Imean in most major brands these
days they tell you really whatthe skin type is for.
So if they lean to normal, tosensitive skin, they can make
some good decisions.
What if it says all skin types?
I think all skin types isprobably acceptable too.
You just wouldn't want to gowith a product that says it's
(20:56):
for really oily or acne proneskin If you're a child and you
have normal skin.
Speaker 1 (21:02):
Okay, okay, that's really good.
So what is your moisturizer?
I have in it.
Speaker 2 (21:08):
My moisturizer is pretty simple.
It has glycerin primarily.
It has centella asiatica.
It has centella asiatica.
I love centella asiatica.
Speaker 1 (21:20):
I always struggle to pronounce.
Yeah, it's go to cola also.
It's been on my radar eversince I read an article, maybe
10 years ago, about how it canhelp reverse stretch marks,
because we don't have a lot ofthings in dermatology that help
put things back in the skinwe're really good with lasers
and we're good with things tolighten the skin and things to
remove pigmentation or, you know, remove dead skin cells, but we
(21:41):
have a hard time puttingelastic tissue or collagen back
in the skin right.
And there was it was I think itwas oral in that study they did
like a dropper full of Gotu-Colato help with striae which are
stretch marks.
But now we're seeing studieswith mandelic acid on centella
asiatica helping withdermatoporosis or thinning of
(22:01):
the collagen in the skin.
So I love centella asiatica.
It's such a great ingredientyeah, I know that's interesting.
Speaker 2 (22:07):
I didn't know that about the striae.
That's, that's interesting andit grows.
Speaker 1 (22:12):
This is really cool.
So where it grows in Africa,the tigers.
When tigers are wounded, theywill roll around in it to help
healing.
Speaker 2 (22:22):
I just learned this, yesterday actually.
Speaker 1 (22:26):
We probably saw it on the same place.
Was it an article or?
Speaker 2 (22:30):
it was somewhere I was actually at, an Elta MD
sunscreen talk and their newestsunscreen, the UV Skin Recovery,
has it in there and they weresharing that same story.
So very funny, I did not knowthat until yesterday, yeah.
Speaker 1 (22:46):
I heard it like a week or two ago.
I thought it was so interesting.
I mean, all the best things arein nature.
We just don't want to depletenature in finding these
resources, like we were talkingabout offline.
Okay, so you've got centellaasiatica.
Speaker 2 (22:57):
You've got glycerin, which is a very nice moisturizer
with low allergens, very lowallergens um, glucomannan is in
there, which is a supportive ofthe skin microbiome, and then
there is a very lowconcentration of niacinamide oh,
I love niacinamide, yeah, whichI think is great, but I do
(23:18):
think there are products forkids that are not appropriate
because they have too muchniacinamide, like you know.
Above 5%, I think, is a littleaggressive for kids.
It can be.
Speaker 1 (23:28):
It's so interesting because it can be inflammatory
when it's high percentage, butwhen it's low it's
anti-inflammatory.
Speaker 2 (23:34):
Anti inflammatory when it's high percentage, but
when it's low it'santi-inflammatory.
Speaker 1 (23:37):
Anti-inflammatory exactly and can be just like a
super gentle exfoliant, LikeGoldilocks, like more is not
better.
That's.
That's the main thing I thinkkids need to get out of this
conversation is more is notbetter.
It's just more irritating andit makes your skin more angry
and confused.
Speaker 2 (23:50):
Yeah, and then you know we are learning more and
more right about the damage thatchronic inflammation causes in
our body right and in our youknow, in our skin barrier as
well.
So, even if you're not seeinglike some kind of dramatic rash,
if you're using a product thatkind of is not appropriate for
(24:10):
your skin type you're young,you're using a retinol that you
don't need.
Maybe it's causing a little lowlevel like inflammation and
inflammation even and damage toyour collagen.
You know, we don't know theanswer to all of that, but I
think it's good practice to besure that you're using something
that's appropriate.
Okay, so niacinamide, centella,glycerin, glucomannan, those are
(24:32):
kind of the main ingredients inthe moisturizer Morning and
night, just night.
Speaker 1 (24:37):
What do you?
How do people know what to use?
Right, because a lot of acne oroily patients and even myself I
tend to be pretty oily I don'tuse a moisturizer during the day
.
Once in a while I'll use amoisturizer with kojic acid
because kojic acid can help withparticulate matter.
So if I'm in like a place ofhigh toxins or pollution, like
LA or New York, I willdefinitely put on a moisturizer
(24:59):
with kojic acid to kind of helpchelate that particulate matter.
But for the most part I tend torun oily so I don't use a
moisturizer during the day.
So I know that a lot ofteenagers they are hesitant to
use a moisturizer too.
Do you find it benefits theirskin to use a moisturizer, or
not.
Speaker 2 (25:17):
I mean, I definitely think everyone is everyone's
preference, and how it reacts ontheir skin is different.
I do think that they should bemoisturizing, probably at least
once a day, but maybe maybe it'sjust once a day.
And then too, I wonder and withyou as well, like if you're,
I'm sure you're using asunscreen every day, and so I
feel naked without a sunscreen.
Speaker 1 (25:39):
I would be more comfortable sitting here naked
with you than I would withoutsunscreen.
Speaker 2 (25:42):
I just wear tinted sunscreen and I'm lazy, so
that's my makeup.
Yeah, same.
But you know, depending on whatsunscreen you're using, it
might have a little bit of somemoisturizing and characteristic
too.
So, just because you're notusing a dedicated moisturizer,
you probably are getting I mean,most moisturizers, most
sunscreens now will have likesome element of moisturizing,
especially if you're like anadult woman using it.
For you know that last step.
(26:03):
So it may be that you'regetting a little bit of moisture
there in the morning, but Ithink you know.
Again, in terms of kids, Ithink the routine is also
important.
So you know, if they only wantto use their moisturizer at
night, that's fine, but I dothink that they should probably
be using it once a day.
I mean, they are washing theirface, they are exposing it to
(26:24):
the elements.
So I think a light moisturizeronce a day is usually helpful
and tolerated really well.
Speaker 1 (26:32):
So really it sounds like you're advocating three
steps, two to three steps.
So cleanse in the morning for60 to 90 to two minutes.
One to two minutes, basically,let the actives get in your
pores, remove the dead skincells, remove the dirt, remove
all the toxins that built up inyour skin for the day, and then
moisturizer and, if I find, ifsomeone's oily in their T-zone,
(26:54):
just apply it on the outside.
And the neck?
The neck is part of our facewhich people overlook.
Great point 30 years from now,our skin looks really different.
Right and then sunscreen.
So what do people look for inthe sunscreen?
Speaker 2 (27:06):
Yeah, so with the sunscreen, you know, I think for
younger skin there, and youknow there's a lot of
controversy about sunscreen andI don't know how much we want to
get into that.
But anything you want.
But I think you know mostparents feel more comfortable
with that.
I speak with with a mineralsunscreen and there are just
great formulations now that areprimarily zinc containing
(27:28):
sunscreen.
So that's usually what Irecommend.
But if someone is verysensitive to the feel of it
because, again, a sunscreen isonly as good as if it's actually
getting applied to the skin soI mean I think all of us will
generally tell patients whateveryou're willing to use is the
best sunscreen.
But, like for a kid who mightbe struggling with a little bit
(27:50):
of acne, maybe they don't likethe feel necessarily of a
mineral only sunscreen Althoughagain, there's so many great
ones out there now.
But a chemical sunscreen Ithink is fine If that's what
they're willing to use.
Speaker 1 (28:03):
Is SPF 70 better than SPF 30?
Speaker 2 (28:07):
You get the majority of protection in the SPF 30.
I generally say 30 is theminimum you want to use for
day-to-day use.
If you're going to be at thebeach, I do think you get a
little, or the pool here inArizona.
You do get a little bit moreincremental benefit if you bump
up to a higher SPF, but the bulkof that protection is happening
at 30.
Speaker 1 (28:26):
Yeah, because if it's applied correctly, it's
blocking 98% of the raise.
If it's applied correctly.
Speaker 2 (28:33):
And that's obviously another conversation about the
amount that you're using, theamount that you're.
You know the reapplicationfrequency that you're doing.
How do you recommend people?
Speaker 1 (28:43):
apply sunscreen.
I could tell you how Irecommend it Sure.
Okay.
So I typically over the years,especially when I lived and
worked in Colorado and Utahwhere we didn't have tinted
windows in the car they weren'tallowed.
So I saw tons of skin cancerson the left side of the face and
in men behind the ear, on theneck, which we still always do
right, because most of us whenwe apply sunscreen we put it on
(29:07):
centrally and blend it outwards,so it's thickest centrally and
then it kind of dissipates andwe get thinner amounts applied
outwards.
So I tend to like, whilesomeone's in their bra, apply it
starting at the base of theneck, bring it in from the
outside of the face to thecentral part of the face and
then you'll see the gaps on thecentral part of your face.
And I apply it all the way upto the eyelids, on the eyelids
(29:29):
to the eyelid margin, especiallygetting the area of the medial
canthus, like that area againstthe nose, because we know that
the sun coming in throughsunglasses will bounce off the
sunglasses and hit that area andwe see a lot of cancers there.
So we see these patterns onpeople year after year.
So we see the gaps of where thesunscreen was not applied
properly and people are gettinghit a little bit extra with more
(29:51):
dna mutations.
Um, so that's kind of how Irecommend people apply it and
then still wear a hat becauseit's a backup plan.
It's not.
It gives people sometimes afalse sense of security and then
they stay out in the sun longer.
So there's a little bit of acatch-22.
Speaker 2 (30:09):
Yeah, I know that's.
Those are all definitely goodpoints and very similar to what
I tell my patients.
I mean, when I'm in the mirrorapplying my sunscreen, I
definitely keep these thingsthat.
I mean you'll see me likeputting a ton of it on the upper
cutaneous lip because I see somuch, like you know, problems
there.
And like the eyelids, like yousaid, because people I think
don't realize that you should beprotecting those.
(30:31):
But yeah, that's definitely agood conversation to have and a
good strategy.
I like what you're, you knowwhat you're telling people.
It's similar.
But I do think we all probablysee those tendencies.
And then the hat is importanttoo, right, because I mean we
get a lot of exposure on thescalp and it's really hard to
protect that area.
(30:51):
I do always tell my patients youknow, kids too like the more
you can rely on just the sun,protective clothing and being
covered, because you know youdon't have to reapply that, you
don't have to worry about itbeing messy and getting all over
the place and then just try tofocus the sunscreen where you
can't cover.
But obviously there's stillareas that you have to use it on
(31:13):
and you're right, most peopledon't reapply it enough that you
have to use it on, and you'reright.
Most people don't reapply itenough, they don't put it on
thick enough.
We use it way too sparsely.
Women and kids if they're usinglike a tinted sunscreen, you
can't rely on that for enoughSPF because we don't layer on
our makeup to the extent that weneed to.
(31:34):
I think I said tinted sunscreen.
Tinted sunscreen is usuallyokay, but I mean, if you're
relying on foundation with SPF,you're not putting it on thick
enough to get that true SPFbenefit.
So I definitely prefer asunscreen first and then, you
know, foundation, if that's whatyou're going to do.
Speaker 1 (31:52):
Oh, that's great, I was going to ask you that.
Okay.
So tinted sunscreen is okayalone.
But if you're doing foundation,that's not okay alone, then do
tinted sunscreen first, then afoundation or any sunscreen,
then a foundation.
Exactly, okay Got it.
Exactly.
Okay, yeah, that's reallyreally.
Um, I lost my train of thought,but I was thinking of something
(32:12):
when you were talking that Iwas like, oh my gosh, that's
such a, that's such aneye-opening thing about, um,
with the makeup and the tintedsunscreen.
And I always tell, oh, Iremember.
I always tell the teenagerslike when they go, oh, I'm gonna
look so dorky when I go hikingwith my friends, I say, well,
it's better to look dorky onehour a day than it is to look
really bad for the rest of yourlife.
(32:32):
Then then you can look hot onthe weekends, right, when you
get dressed up.
Speaker 2 (32:37):
I know, but it is, it is so hard because, again, they
just can't, they, they reallystruggle.
We've already talked about this, but they just really struggle
to appreciate those consequences.
So trying to show them picturesof skin that's had way too much
exposure and you know skincancers removed and all this
stuff, and I mean you gotta, wegotta, keep trying, though,
(32:57):
right?
Speaker 1 (32:58):
yeah, so I mean.
I think, for anyone listening,though, the key important
components is to save your moneyand not get so many products,
because it just will lead toirritated, angry skin, and you
just need a couple steps in themorning.
And it's good to get thatroutine down, because as you get
older, you're going to wantmore for your skin.
So, cleanser, moisturizer,sunscreen in the morning,
(33:21):
cleanser, moisturizer at night,um, maybe add in a vitamin c in
the morning if you're in the sunor a high pollution area.
I don't love ellis, the gorbicacid.
I prefer, like thd, ascorbateor sodium ascorbyl phosphate or
a more stable form of vitamin C.
And what else Do they need?
Eye creams, any of that kind ofstuff?
Speaker 2 (33:40):
No, but I was going to say you know a lot of
sunscreens now they incorporatein an antioxidant like vitamin C
or vitamin E, so it may be thatyou don't necessarily have to
do, when you're younger, thatseparate vitamin C component, um
, but I do agree that youdefinitely.
If you're going to be usingvitamin c's, you probably want
(34:01):
those more uh stable, uh stableversions.
Speaker 1 (34:05):
Sorry, you asked me a question at the end and I
backtracked I was wondering ifthey like, if they need eye
cream, or if someone has acne,where do they put it in that
step?
Because it's often obvious tous to go from thinnest product
to thickest product.
I think it's not obvious formost people like what order of
steps to go in.
Speaker 2 (34:24):
Yeah, so I definitely do not think that kids
necessarily need a dedicated eyecream.
I honestly am not sure thatmost adults do.
I mean, a lot of times we canget those same ingredients that
are in our facial products andjust extend it up to include the
eyelid skin and the neck.
Speaker 1 (34:43):
And the chest, I agree 100%.
Speaker 2 (34:45):
I don't necessarily think you.
I mean unless, like you, havepuffiness and you want a
caffeine product that you knowyou don't have caffeine in the
rest of your skincare.
Maybe then it makes sense.
But I think that's a lot ofoverhyped, a lot, and kids
definitely don't need it.
In terms of order, like if a kidis starting to break out, I
think the most important thingsare to be sure that they're
(35:08):
dialed in with the consistency,okay, of cleansing and using
sunscreen, maybe moisturizer, ofcleansing and using sunscreen,
maybe moisturizer, depending onwhat's going on and what their
preferences are, but theconsistency of that for a while,
because a lot of times they'renot.
Maybe they're washing their faceonce a week, so it's dialing in
(35:28):
that consistency and then, ifthey're still having problems,
adding in actives that makesense for what's going on.
So let's say that they'restarting to get some, you know,
whiteheads and blackheads.
Maybe they want to add in acleanser that has salicylic acid
that still keeps it prettygentle but it's going to deep
(35:48):
clean those pores a little bitmore.
Maybe they want to do anover-the-counter retinoid that
is for acne, like a dappling ordifferin as the brand name, and
so that would go on after theycleanse and then before their
moisturizer.
Um, so those are two greatover-the-products
(36:10):
over-the-counter products that Iwill I think are fairly mild
and tolerable, that can beeasily added into skincare, a
skincare regimen for a kid who'sstarting to break out.
Speaker 1 (36:24):
Yeah, I agree.
I think that's a really goodpoint.
Okay, so let's do some mythbusters, yes, okay, what are the
top three things you hear aboutthat people have heard on
social media that are completelyfalse or more false than true?
Let's just say more false thantrue because we don't really
live in a world whereeverything's so black and white.
What do you think of red lightmasks?
(36:47):
Let's do that one.
Speaker 2 (36:49):
I was thinking.
That was the top thing thatcame to my head as I was
thinking of others.
I do think red light can behelpful, but I do think you have
to be really consistent with itand I do think the benefits are
fairly mild.
But I do think there's somereasonable evidence suggesting
some benefit with consistencywith a product that is
(37:11):
reasonably powered.
Speaker 1 (37:13):
I agree, I fully agree.
I mean to boost mitochondria.
It's just that the devicesaren't regulated and we don't
always know what's the rightdistance, what's the fluence,
what are the settings of the redlight?
I use a panel personallybecause I want to treat all my
body the same.
But there's a sweet spot, likethere's a biphasic curve, where
not enough red light will notstimulate mitochondria and then
(37:34):
too much will actually producetoo much reactive oxygen species
and then you're getting moreinflammation than you wanted in
the first place.
So I agree, I'm not a fan ofthe mask so much because my face
isn't separate from the rest ofme.
Speaker 2 (37:50):
Yeah, I mean, and at least if you're doing a mask,
you're treating your whole face.
I'm definitely not a fan ofthese wands that, like spot
treat an area.
Speaker 1 (37:55):
Tell me what that is about.
Speaker 2 (38:03):
I mean, I guess it's just a way to have a less
expensive product that still canbe sold as a red light.
Yeah, you can get these littlered lights that are just wands
that you, you know hold Maybeyou know hold to treat the
specific spots.
So I mean, imagine how longthat's going to take to like
treat your entire face if that'swhat you're trying to use it
for.
So, at least a mask, you'recovering a whole area.
But yeah, you can now getproducts that brands have, like
their neck version and theirhand gloves.
(38:25):
But I agree, the panel is nice,um, but those are obviously
more expensive.
Speaker 1 (38:30):
I've had the same one for five years and I haven't
replaced a light bulb yet.
Wow, that crazy.
And I do it every morning forabout 15 minutes.
Um, but I think it's a bonusadd-on.
I mean, we want to go back toprioritizing things, so probably
sunscreen and cleanser arealways going to be our top two
things, and then we add littlethings at a time.
(38:51):
These are not necessities.
They're sort of like dessertafter a healthy meal, right like
?
I don't think I wouldn'tprescribe red light for people,
for teens especially, you know,I just wouldn't, okay.
So what about derma rollers?
What do you think about dermarollers or at-home microneedling
devices?
Speaker 2 (39:07):
Not a fan.
Speaker 1 (39:08):
Of either, or just the derma roller.
Speaker 2 (39:12):
I am not a fan.
I think of either, butdefinitely not the roller.
I just think it introduces toomuch potential to tear your skin
and even with like the stampingversions of these, I think that
there's a lot of risk in termsof like cleaning it being sure
that there's, you know,infection risk is controlled.
(39:34):
It just makes me a little bitnervous.
Speaker 1 (39:37):
I agree, because what we're trying to do in these,
you probably get sent a lot.
I get sent a lot of thesethings.
Yeah, just to know we're tryingto do in these, you probably
get sent a lot.
I get sent a lot of thesethings.
Yeah, Just to know we're notselling out.
You know we can get paid a lotof money to advocate these
things and I just won't.
Because with microneedlingwe're doing controlled trauma in
the skin to stimulate collagen,but too much trauma is always
(39:59):
going to be a scar, which is why, like with laser treatments,
over the years I've seen so manypeople with terrible scarring
because they've had really badlasers.
So, while something can giveyou really good results, if it's
not done properly it can causescarring which is not really
reversible.
Um, okay, what about?
What about those cold rollers,those ice rollers?
Speaker 2 (40:22):
I'm okay with those as long as you're.
I mean again, there's alwaysrisk with everything that we do.
I mean you could certainlyreally traumatize your skin if
you hold one of those too longon a certain spot, but, you know
, for puffiness around the eyes.
I mean, I struggle with that.
So sometimes, if it's a morningand I'm getting up early, I'll
(40:43):
do a little bit of that.
Um, acne, I mean I do think ifyou have a really inflamed acne
bump, that it can be helpful.
Okay, um, and you know it's, Ithink it's pretty safe and easy.
Speaker 1 (40:54):
Um, so I am, I like those yeah, not so harmful and
maybe some results.
So we're really like anti-harm.
If there's a risk of harm we'rekind of against it.
Okay, yeah, I don't.
You know what I do forpuffiness, I just do I'll do 30
to 50 jumping jacks and drink abunch of water, cause I figured
that kind of stimulates mylymphatics.
Speaker 2 (41:14):
No, I mean I love that, but you know, if I'm like
trying to hurry up and get outthe door, or, you know, get on
camera for something right away.
It's like I just I need like afast fix.
I don't have the time to downthe water, but obviously very
important to stay hydrated andadequate sleep all of those
things too Right, I know alwayswhat about.
Speaker 1 (41:35):
I said we wouldn't have to go here.
But what about the salmon sperm?
I'm sorry, I think this is justso crazy.
Okay, what about salmon sperm?
Salmon sperm.
Speaker 2 (41:42):
I'm sorry, I think this is just so crazy.
Okay, what about salmon sperm?
You know, I think that it's itcould be helpful.
I mean, I definitely have seen,okay, so I don't use it.
I have not brought this into mypractice so I don't have any
like firsthand, like experiencewith patients.
But I do follow a lot of peoplewho use this in their practice
and do have patients who seem toreally like this a lot and it's
(42:02):
been a treatment over in Koreafor a really long time.
But it's hard to know because,like most of the time, it's used
in a very detailed regimen, youknow, and people who are
getting a lot of otherprocedures.
So, okay, great, they lookamazing, their skin is all glowy
, but what are the other thingsthat they're doing that are
(42:22):
contributing to it as well?
So that's tough to sort out.
But yeah, I mean I don'texactly know how they get it,
but you know it is an animalproduct.
I kind of think of myself as ananimal lover, so you know, I
mean I guess, from what Iunderstand very superficially,
that you know the salmon are nothurt in this procedure and they
(42:47):
can, like, continue to live.
So I'm not opposed to trying it, but I don't know that it's
like this kind of sea that youknow, currently it's just a big.
It's a huge viral trend.
Speaker 1 (43:02):
Yeah, yeah, I mean, I don't know.
I'm kind of curious to lean inand hear more.
Yeah, I think it's probablygoing to be a trend that comes
and goes a little bit or is usedin conjunction with other
things.
I think if I had a daughter orif I had a certain amount of
money, I'd probably direct myfunds towards something else at
this point.
It's kind of how I look at it.
But I'm just not a absolutelynot sort of person.
(43:25):
I just that's why I wanted toask you, because you're you're
definitely more on the cuttingedge of trends than I am.
Speaker 2 (43:30):
Yeah, I think that's that's a good, that's a good
summary of it.
You know, I mean, I do thinkthat if it's kind of like the
red light, like if you're doingeverything else and you know
you're getting maybe a moreaggressive laser procedure every
once in a while and you'rereally, uh, dialed in on your
skincare, you know, maybe, andyou're getting microneedling and
maybe you want, you know, everyonce in a while, to have that
microneedled in, oh, okay, maybeif you're comfortable with the
(43:53):
source yeah, I mean for teens.
Speaker 1 (43:55):
We're looking at instilling a regimen and a
routine for you to start takingcare of yourself.
That's not complicated, that'snot going to hurt you as an
adult.
We're doing a little bit moreproactive things for targeting
pigmentation or aging and that'swhere, like red light and
exosomes, I find help, healingpost-procedures.
Yet I cycle them in and out ofthe routine and the rituals.
(44:19):
So okay.
So if a teenager has, say,their parents give them $150
budget a month, how should theyuse it?
Speaker 2 (44:31):
Well, I think, if they're sticking to the
Obviously on your skincare.
Yeah Well, I initially was goingto say that and then I didn't
want to say that, which is stillwould not cost that much money.
I initially was going to saythat and then I didn't want to
say that, which still would notcost that much money.
But you know, I think that itwould be hard to spend that much
money.
If we stayed in the confines ofmy recommendations of a
(44:52):
cleanser, moisturizer andsunscreen, I would love to say,
maybe do what I do and buy likemultiple sunscreens because I
think that's fun.
Right, you have tinted ones,you have untinted ones, you have
different brands that havedifferent feels, they layer
differently.
So you know, maybe work on yoursunscreen collection, but in
terms of like other things thatthey might want to do, I guess
(45:13):
is what you're asking.
Like what other things beyondthe typical regimen is what
you're asking.
Speaker 1 (45:21):
Yeah, like.
Are there supplements?
Yeah, are regimen is whatyou're asking.
Yeah, like, are theresupplements?
Are there foods?
Are there devices?
Are there any other thingsoutside of just the topical
skincare we talked about?
That someone can do whenthey're younger that will help
them have good skin throughouttheir lifetime.
Speaker 2 (45:35):
So I do think it's reasonable to start a polypodium
supplement, and I did recentlyread an article or saw something
published about the youngestage that it was studied in, and
now I can't remember off the topof my head, but I want to say
it was like about six, it wasyoung, it was four to seven.
Was it four to seven?
Speaker 1 (45:55):
Yes, somewhere in there.
It was fine.
It's a fern extract, polypodiumleucotomus.
We've talked about it beforewith Dr Katie Varmann.
There's two dermatologists thatmake supplements that I know
about containing polypodium.
There's Inner Glow Vitamins andthen Soul Care MD that are made
by Dr Noreen Gallaria and thenDr Katie Varmann, and they're
(46:15):
both very, very intentionalabout the way they created these
supplements, and one of them isa gummy, which you know it's
easier for the teens to take Ifind my boys will take that and
the other one's a capsule, andthen one of them is like a hard
pill.
So but go ahead with thepolypodium like, take it every
(46:37):
day.
Speaker 2 (46:37):
Yeah, I think take it every day is totally reasonable
, definitely in the summermonths, and maybe that makes
sense in like the Midwest orsomething where there's, you
know, less sun exposure.
But again, I think it's aroutine thing, just like the
sunscreen.
Like I'm never going to reallytell someone that they should
stop at certain times of theyear because then you just fall
out of the habit.
So I think it's a reasonableevery day one to take In terms
(47:03):
of like other supplements.
I mean I definitely am anadvocate of certain other
supplements for adults, but likefor kids, that's probably as
far as I go, unless there'ssomething we're trying to
address.
So if someone is having acneand maybe they don't have the
best diet, I mean of course I dotalk to them about ways to
change their nutrition, improvetheir gut health, but I may
recommend a probiotic, forexample, um which?
Speaker 1 (47:26):
which probiotic do you like for acne?
Speaker 2 (47:28):
So I?
There's one on Amazon, whichI'm not going to be able to
remember the name of, but theone I have in the off in my
office is from face reality andit has the typical um bacteria
that were generally studied Umthe um.
I'm going to blank on these nowtoo.
Speaker 1 (47:46):
Like lactobacillus remnosus the remnosus.
Speaker 2 (47:49):
And then there's one other one, but it contains both
of those.
So I will usually recommendthat if we're, particularly if
someone has like a kind of a notgreat diet, you know, lots of
processed foods, lots of sugaryfoods, I will obviously talk to
them about that but thenencourage a probiotic.
Yeah, I agree, if someone has,you know, is struggling with
(48:10):
rosacea, for example, I mayrecommend like an omega-3
supplement and, you know, maybethere's other things too, but
those are sort of like the forsure supplements that I might
suggest with somebody.
I'd love to know your take, ifyou know about this Skin Better
supplement that just launched.
Speaker 1 (48:30):
I saw that.
I saw that and I saw there wasa five-part series that a bunch
of people like, from DrVallocchi to I'm blanking on her
name- oh my gosh that she doesall Dr Vallocchi to.
Speaker 2 (48:47):
I'm blanking on her name um uh.
Speaker 1 (48:48):
Oh my gosh that she does all.
Dr Zoe, yeah, she's been.
You know, she has such aninteresting background as a
chemist and I am reallyintrigued with it.
Actually, I'm really intrigued.
The price point's a little highfor me to want to commit at
this point, because I do take alot of supplements.
I am intrigued, you know.
I'm always a little hesitant,though, like regarding some of
the studies that people set upto be perfect for them.
Speaker 2 (49:10):
Yeah, no, I mean that is true, I mean, of course,
they show like really beautifulimages of, you know, decreased
evidence of the glycation ofcollagen and like these biopsies
.
But I think it's reallyinteresting and, if it does work
, not only implications reallyfor the skin and maintaining our
collagen there, but I mean, whywouldn't it help collagen and
(49:30):
the rest of our body?
Speaker 1 (49:31):
Exactly Like I love the inside out approach and I
think we really never.
We always believe there was noway to reverse glycation.
So I always think of it as likeour body starts to cook from
the inside out from the minutewe're born and it's just a
matter of how slow we can cookit right.
So the fact that maybe we canreverse some of this glycation,
where the sugar the glycation,by the way is just when sugar
(49:51):
molecules bind with differentproteins in our body, whether
it's a blood vessel or thecollagen in our skin, and it
makes it really rigid and stiffand that's why people end up
with deep creases rather thanthe resiliency of the skin.
So if there's a way to reversethat, that's game changing.
I will probably try it, becauseI end up trying almost all of
them.
I've tried the supplements withVitamedico, with Glycidin Skin
(50:14):
from years ago.
There's just so many I've triedover the years that I will
probably try it.
I'm I'm just more of a learnerobserver for a little while.
Try it for a little while andthen things will disappear or
stick around at that point.
Speaker 2 (50:28):
Yeah, no, I'm, I started taking it Um have you
noticed anything?
I don't.
It's hard to say I mean, Idon't know.
I do all these other things too, so it's so hard to know like
do you want to buy FC your skin?
Um, but to your point, I mean Ido have some patients that are
on it, but to your point, it islike expensive and it's really
(50:49):
interesting the way that and andI have not seen like a reason
or chatted with with somebody ontheir team to like get the
exact reasoning of this.
But you know, you really starthigh dose, like six pills a day
for a month and then you go downto four pills a day.
Um, so I mean you go through alot of supplement to get, you
(51:10):
know, amped up on this and Idon't know, do you have to do
that?
Like, is there some reason thatyou have to do that?
Because that's a lot of money,uh to to go through a lot of
pills and a lot of pills.
I mean there's no problem.
I mean they're easy to, they'recapsules, they're very, they're
small, they go down easily.
It's not a problem, but it'sjust it's.
It's a lot of money,particularly at that beginning.
(51:30):
How?
Speaker 1 (51:31):
okay, so how what's the mechanism?
Of action.
I'm blanking on it.
So it's a rosemary, it's a awayfrom thinking.
Maybe if I just add morerosemary to my food Right?
Speaker 2 (51:43):
I don't know, I don't know, but they do say that it
is a specific extract and youknow they had to go through this
special process to distill it,and but I don't know beyond that
.
Speaker 1 (51:56):
But yeah, I don't know either.
I mean, it goes back to thefact that our skin is an inside
out job whether it's screamingat us because we have some
inflammation going on internally, as you mentioned earlier, or
whether we can potentially makeour skin look better by doing
something from the inside.
The easiest thing is food, justhaving good food choices.
So I mean, I love all that.
(52:17):
This is a great discussion.
I think we're going to beevolving more towards an
inside-out approach, and Istudied nutrition undergrad so
I've always had that kind ofinterest and, um, what I learned
was basically opposite of whatwe believe now and we're ever
evolving.
It was the low fat, high carbphase, and you know our skin is
a bilipid membrane.
Why would we not want to havehealthy fats, but unhealthy fats
(52:39):
will will do things as as well.
So, yeah, it's just, it'sreally really interesting.
Okay, so what else?
What else do you recommend?
Anything else that I didn'ttouch on?
Speaker 2 (52:47):
Oh my gosh.
We talked about so many things.
Speaker 1 (52:51):
Right.
Speaker 2 (52:52):
Oh, um, well, one other um, I don't know, it was
not actually a myth, but a trendthat I would love to chat about
and ask if you've heard of thisis you're aware, I'm sure
you're aware of the UV index,and so, for people listening,
the UV index takes into accountyour location, the elevation of
(53:18):
where you are, the temperature,and tells you the rate of UV
exposure you're getting on ascale of one to ten, with one
being the lowest and ten beingthe highest.
Well, obviously, it was createdso that we can understand oh,
this is a time where you mightneed to be more protected.
You know you'd want to be morecareful if you're outside
(53:38):
because you're going to begetting more radiation from the
sun.
Well, kids, now they are usingthis, I like to say, for evil.
There is this huge push I meanit's all over social media Kids
using this like that's when theywant to go outside to tan.
So they will call.
I mean parents post about thislike their kid will call from
(53:59):
you know high school and be likeI got to come home, the UV is
going to be eight today.
I got to work on my tan, soit's just I wanted to point out
that trend to let, to let peopleknow that's not what we should
be doing for the UV index.
Speaker 1 (54:13):
That's so interesting .
I didn't think tans were trendyanymore.
Speaker 2 (54:16):
Oh my gosh, they are so trendy.
There is this huge backlashagainst sunscreen, for a lot of
reasons, I think.
But yeah, people are againstsunscreen.
They are against smart sunprotection measures, unless I
think they have someone you know, a trusted source that they can
(54:36):
go to, or a parent that'sreally into this.
But yeah, there's this hugesurge in tanning now and
avoiding sunscreen.
Speaker 1 (54:43):
Well, if you were tanning, you might as well not
use any skincare.
I just want to say that that'sridiculous.
I mean, I did it.
I didn't wear sunscreen until Iwas 30.
Speaker 2 (54:51):
And.
Speaker 1 (54:51):
I remember when it first came out I was like ew,
why would anyone want to usethat?
I specifically go in the sun toget a tan.
That's the main reason, and nowI regret it, now that I know
what I know.
You know, but it's.
It's almost reckless knowingwhat we know now.
It's sort of like my mom smokedwhen she was pregnant with me.
She goes we didn't know anybetter, but now we know better,
so you can't unknow what youalready know.
(55:13):
So now that you're hearing thisfrom us, you know better and
you can't unknow what youalready know.
So, whether it's the sun causingdried skin cells that are going
to clog your pores and causemore acne might look better for
like a day or two, but then itends up rebounding and look
worse or wrinkles down the roadjust watch the movie Something
About Mary and you'll know whatwe're talking about.
(55:34):
Anyway, I love having you on,dr Jeffy.
I feel like we could talk allday, but I really want everyone
to be able to find your websiteand follow you on social.
You have so many greateducational things, so can you
let everyone know how to findyou?
Speaker 2 (55:47):
Yes.
So on socials, my handle is atBrooke Jeffy MD and I am on
TikTok and Instagram, and ifyou're local to Scottsdale,
check out my practice website,which is Brooke Jeffy MD dot com
.
Speaker 1 (56:01):
We will have it all in the show notes, thank you,
thank you.
Thank you for joining us onListen to your Skin by Moon and
Skin.
It's an honor to be part ofyour skincare journey and if you
love this episode, make sure tosubscribe.
Leave us a glowing review andshare it with someone who's
passionate about their skincarejourney, and please connect with
us on social to ask yourquestions, which will drive
(56:22):
future educational episodes.
Popular Podcasts
Stuff You Should Know
If you've ever wanted to know about champagne, satanism, the Stonewall Uprising, chaos theory, LSD, El Nino, true crime and Rosa Parks, then look no further. Josh and Chuck have you covered.
Dateline NBC
Current and classic episodes, featuring compelling true-crime mysteries, powerful documentaries and in-depth investigations. Special Summer Offer: Exclusively on Apple Podcasts, try our Dateline Premium subscription completely free for one month! With Dateline Premium, you get every episode ad-free plus exclusive bonus content.
On Purpose with Jay Shetty
I’m Jay Shetty host of On Purpose the worlds #1 Mental Health podcast and I’m so grateful you found us. I started this podcast 5 years ago to invite you into conversations and workshops that are designed to help make you happier, healthier and more healed. I believe that when you (yes you) feel seen, heard and understood you’re able to deal with relationship struggles, work challenges and life’s ups and downs with more ease and grace. I interview experts, celebrities, thought leaders and athletes so that we can grow our mindset, build better habits and uncover a side of them we’ve never seen before. New episodes every Monday and Friday. Your support means the world to me and I don’t take it for granted — click the follow button and leave a review to help us spread the love with On Purpose. I can’t wait for you to listen to your first or 500th episode!