Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:06):
You're listening to the Sunday Session podcast with Francesca Rudkin
from News Talk SEDB.
Speaker 2 (00:13):
Right now, though, from the high streets to the high Country,
wool is making a high end fashion comeback. It's a
good thing. We've got twenty four point four millionship in
the country. Apparently the fashion industry is seeing an increase
in demand for more quality and sustainable fibers. Could this
be a new phase for New Zealand fashion? Next week,
the Best of Wool is showcased in Central Otago as
(00:34):
it hosts wol On. Two ladies leading the wool revolution
are renowned designer and expert judge Liz Mitchell and last
year's will On Champ Jane Avery. Good morning to you both,
Good morning, love you to have you with us. Liz,
can I start with you? Please us? Are we seeing
an increased demand for wool and what do you put
(00:57):
that down to?
Speaker 3 (00:59):
I think sadly we're not seeing enough of a lift
in the interest in wall just in our market, because
I think obviously South Island it's got a much stronger
awareness and need for wool and all its properties. But
we're still facing some really challenging things from the impact
with fast fashion and just the plastic synthetics that are
(01:23):
dominating our marketplace. And really I think walls sadly has
been lost in people's consciousness. And I think opportunities like
wooll On putting wool and design on the stage and
really amazing things and just the interest in that is
going to help change and make people more aware of
(01:44):
a fiber that we used to wear, you know all
the time, we had so much connection with it, but
in the last twenty years that has really declined.
Speaker 2 (01:51):
I was going to ask you when did we move
away from sustainable and fibers like wool, So about twenty
years ago, do you think?
Speaker 4 (01:59):
I think yes, I mean I know that.
Speaker 3 (02:02):
You know, when I began my fashion design career, I
had connections with Wall, Secret, Harriot, amazing workshops and things,
and that was in the early two thousand.
Speaker 4 (02:11):
Sadly, you know, twenty years ago.
Speaker 3 (02:13):
On more they were cold and the farmers didn't really
see that they were getting enough back from that investment.
But at the same time, really the synthetic industry, oil
industry was just just pounced and it just had so
much money and you know, just to throw at marketing,
and you know, I think we all sort of thought, oh,
(02:34):
isn't it amazing to be able to get cheap clothes,
and you know, just but without realizing actually what was happening,
and the fact that those companies producing it never had
any idea of what to do with the wallet, you know,
with the products at the end of life and really
that lifestyle, just the cost and the fact that landfills,
(02:56):
I mean, are just groaning with this toxic material now,
Because for.
Speaker 2 (03:00):
A while there, Jane, it felt like when we thought
about well, we thought about carpet.
Speaker 5 (03:07):
Yes, exactly carpet. I love a wool carpet.
Speaker 6 (03:12):
Always.
Speaker 5 (03:13):
But yes, wool is such a beautiful, versatile textile fabric.
Speaker 6 (03:18):
Which is just well, we should be wearing it on
our backs.
Speaker 2 (03:22):
So how how does how has sort of fast fashion
and synthetic fibers and the impact that they have on
the environment impacted your approach to design?
Speaker 1 (03:31):
Jane?
Speaker 5 (03:33):
Oh, well, I guess I've been a sucker for a
good synthetic fabric over the years.
Speaker 6 (03:36):
Let's face it.
Speaker 5 (03:38):
These days, and especially with the integrity of my brand,
I really tend towards natural fabrics and wool in particular,
and fur of course, Yeah.
Speaker 2 (03:52):
You do tell us. How you came to go from
a career in television to becoming a ferrier is.
Speaker 6 (04:02):
A mistake.
Speaker 5 (04:02):
It with farrier, I don't deal with horses hoofs.
Speaker 6 (04:05):
I'm a furrier.
Speaker 5 (04:08):
Well, I moved to the South Island, to Dunedin and
two thousand and eleven, and I was frankly cold, and
i'd been over the years of being in television. I'd
been making my own clothes and I'd essentially been apprenticing
myself as a tailor. So I had about twenty years
of experience like that, and I decided, well, I can't
(04:29):
make breezy blouses and palazzo pants anymore like I used
to wear in Auckland, so I'll start making coats. And
when I was a television journalist in christ Church back
in the nineties, I used to do stories on the
rabbit plagues down here and I always thought, gosh, there's
a resource there and it all you know, some things
(04:50):
take a while to percolate, and eventually I thought, right, well,
I'm going.
Speaker 6 (04:53):
To make some coats.
Speaker 5 (04:54):
But the clincher was discovering that Mooney's furriers and that's
New Zealand's last commercial furrier. They now retired. They were
five minutes down the road from my house. Yes, and
so they essentially adopted me and apprenticed me over five years.
And I'll be forever grateful to their important for.
Speaker 6 (05:17):
Giving me a new career.
Speaker 5 (05:18):
Really, and it's a real privilege to be, you know,
the last child of the Mooney's legacy.
Speaker 2 (05:24):
Do we have many furias and furrias in New Zealand?
Speaker 6 (05:29):
I think I'm a pretty scarce breed.
Speaker 5 (05:31):
I mean there are people working with fur hair in
there all over the country, in particular possum fur. And
I do some possum fur work as well. I contract
and make large scale possum fur luxury blankets.
Speaker 6 (05:45):
But the focus of.
Speaker 5 (05:46):
My brand Lapin is New Zealand wild rabbit and making
that into a luxury resource, giving it a new look.
Speaker 2 (05:56):
As you two have been pushing boundaries of what we
can do and what we've seen with wool, can you
tell me a bit more about that has will been underutilized?
Speaker 3 (06:06):
I absolutely both, I mean Jane and I both agree
with that I've been I mean I've used Wall, I
suppose because I'm a best spoke Taylor, I've used Wall
all the way through my career and love natural fibers.
So it's just I didn't really realize that I was
creating sustainable fashion just because we're about craftsmanship and just quality,
(06:30):
and I think that's always been a really paramount for
my brand. I see that, you know, we actually have
Brentworth now committing completely to wall carpet. Wall is now
being picked up as an insu both for insulation, and
there's a company Flock which is doing wall wall panels,
(06:51):
which I mean, these are really quite quantities of the
strong wall, which is about eighty to ninety percent of
our clip and at the moment, you know, that's less
than two dollars a kilo for raw fleeces it's called And.
Speaker 4 (07:07):
So I mean when I look at that and I see.
Speaker 3 (07:09):
A resource that actually the farmers are paying more to
share the sheep than they get from the return from
the you know, it's really the meating in meat industry
that's kept wall wide sheep are being produced because it's
really the costs are looking after them. And I just think,
you know this for me when I started to think
(07:31):
about in my role at Campaignment as an ambassador that
campaign for wool, that we and then I had the
opportunity with felting, which James lovely winning outfits last year
at Wollon were actually felted wall Marino wall.
Speaker 4 (07:48):
I've been.
Speaker 3 (07:49):
I was at aut University doing research and playing around
with wall fiber and the needle felting machine and discovering
how amazing things that could be done with it. And
I just had also became aware of international amazing felt
(08:10):
wool artists who are really leading the way with amazing
particularly in the home where's an art space, And I
think I just see that with design lead that you
can lift and elevate and the price of wool could
then come up and there'll be a return for everyone
on the supply chain, from the farmer to the person
(08:33):
that produces the textile.
Speaker 4 (08:35):
So I just.
Speaker 3 (08:35):
Feel, you know, the only way that we can actually
improve the situation is really just making creating beautiful things
that really inspire people and they think of wool and
think we do need to be using this, and then
all the properties that wall has are just amazing. So
you know, healthy planet, healthy home. You know, just yeah
(08:57):
to me, with New Zealand could lead the way in
this because I think, you know, wall is a resource
that we have a lot of and we grow the
best wool in the world, so you know, what a
better place than to really start this will revolution.
Speaker 2 (09:12):
And of course woll On is hugely popular and it's
been doing its bit for years. But I noticed Jane
that this year is Gala the event. It's sold out
really early and there are already plans to expand it
for next year. As a designer, what do you put
the success of this event down to?
Speaker 5 (09:30):
Well, I'm on the committee this year because I actually
live in Alexandra.
Speaker 6 (09:34):
Now this is where I'm placed.
Speaker 5 (09:36):
So yes, Firstly, the Gala evening is sold out and
that's just fabulous. I think all the tickets sold within
a week or so. But there is a matinee this
year and that's at two pm on the Saturday, the
thirty first, so you can get your tickets to that, please, yes,
by matinee tickets?
Speaker 6 (09:56):
What sorry, what was the question?
Speaker 2 (09:58):
Why do you think it's just increasing in popularity, always
been well supported, but just doing so well?
Speaker 5 (10:04):
Oh well, I guess it's had some hysible And look
the people who enter the competition. You know, some of
them are just so absolutely clever. They make such beautiful
things and who wouldn't want to look at such incredible work.
I've quite amazed it at some of the things. I've
just been unpacking some of the boxes and you know,
(10:25):
organizing all the entries yesterday and the day before, and
you know, some of it's like quite gobsmacking.
Speaker 6 (10:31):
So why wouldn't you want to do that?
Speaker 5 (10:33):
And just to wearing wool It's just a nicer experience
all around, isn't it.
Speaker 2 (10:41):
What did winning Wollon do for you last year? I believe?
Are you still to head to Vancouver? Is that right?
You're in a show there?
Speaker 5 (10:50):
Yes, well, woll On was certainly a great morale boost
for me. And then in January, actually my wool On
collection had a showing at the Omaco A and P Show,
which is a country town just twenty minutes outside of Alexandra,
and that was charming. And then I thought, well, we're
too from here, so I responded to Vancouver Fashion Week.
Speaker 6 (11:16):
They've been sending me invites.
Speaker 5 (11:17):
Over the years, and I thought, right, well, I'll spread
my wings a little further afield and go and show
it an international fashion week.
Speaker 2 (11:28):
Liz, it's great to see events like this growing and things,
and we've seen one of our premier events, new Zealand
Fashion Week canceled again this year. The fashion events are
important for the industry, aren't they.
Speaker 3 (11:39):
Absolutely, and that I think is why we'll on out
this opportunity from younger designers, farmers. I mean it's just
a miriad of different people who submit garments. I mean,
it's so I think if you're a student at fashion school,
that opportunity to put garments and have them seen on
the catwalk and just what that visibility can help you.
(12:02):
And obviously someone like Jane winning last year and what
has happened for her, So to me, I mean, it's
really sad about a fashion week. I mean, this year
I think is perhaps, with all the economic challenges that
business are facing, probably the toughest year ever to have
done a fashion week. So I hope that next year
that it is will go ahead again and that things
(12:23):
will be looking a little bit more positive because it's
you know, we've seen different fashion brands closing their doors
and you know, just people have been in the industry
for a long time retiring and just I don't know,
you want a future for younger designers to have and
if we don't, you know, to meet that's you know,
(12:44):
from someone who began in my early days and you know,
nearly twenty five years plus doing having a fashion brand.
Speaker 4 (12:51):
You know you've got to you know, you need to
support the young ones.
Speaker 3 (12:55):
And to use the best fiber, best material that we
have innovate with it. That's an exciting opportunity and you know,
I just think just looking at all the support that
will On has generated with the sponsors this year, you know,
people are supporting it and I think it's got a
really amazing future. And I know that they plan you
(13:18):
like it to be more a national fashion competition rather
than a Southerland But for me, it's a wonderful opportunity
to go to an amazing part of the world, Central Otago,
Alexandra's beautiful spot. So yeah, I'm looking forward to joining
the other judges next week.
Speaker 4 (13:36):
So looking forward to it.
Speaker 2 (13:38):
Liz and Jane, thank you so much for your time.
Fashion designers Lis Mitchell and Jane Avery there ahead of
the wooll On Fashion event.
Speaker 1 (13:45):
For more from the Sunday session with Francesca Rudkin, listen
live to news Talks it'd be from nine am Sunday,
or follow the podcast on iHeartRadio.