April 10, 2024 • 8 mins
Illinois may be called the Prairie State, but in this Travels with Darley podcast episode, you’ll discover parts of the state where rock canyons, waterfalls and rivers remind us of the diversity of the terrain in Illinois. Less than an hour and a half southwest of Chicago, join Darley Newman to explore Starved Rock Country with Kathy Casstevens, who has frequented the park since childhood. Uncover the cultural and geological history of this park, where canyons are named after French explorers and frozen waterfalls in the winter serve as a playground for ice climbers. Get practical tips on where to stay, eat and other attractions in LaSalle County, as you take an immersive hike through Starved Rock State Park.
Learn more about the "Travels with Darley" series on PBS and streaming and visit darley-newman.com for more on how to listen to other content and watch the Emmy Award-nominated series.
Learn more about the "Travels with Darley" series on PBS and streaming and visit darley-newman.com for more on how to listen to other content and watch the Emmy Award-nominated series.
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Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
(00:00):
Illinois is called the Prairie State, but in this podcast episode you'll discover a part of the
(00:05):
state where rock canyons, waterfalls, and rivers remind us of the diversity of the terrain in Illinois.
Starved Rock State Park covers 2600 acres. There are 18 canyons here in many of them have
seasonal waterfalls. We're traveling less than an hour and a half southwest of Chicago to
Starved Rock State Parkto hike with Kathy Casstevens who grew up frequenting this state park that's
(00:28):
loved by locals and travelers alike. We're sharing an immersive adventure visiting the park,
as well as practical takeaways for your trip on this Travels with Darley Podcast in Illinois.
We're hiking into history and nature in Starved Rock Country, located in La Salle County in Illinois.
(00:53):
This part of Illinois is popular for lovers of small town charms, street art, local craft beer,
wine, and spirits, and nature, and a quick escape if you're visiting Chicago. I've been to this area
before to film for my PBS series Travels with Darley, and I can tell you that one thing that
may confuse you if you're visiting we're going to work out here at the start. How exactly do you
(01:14):
pronounce the area's name? I think it's all in the context of how you're presenting your sentence.
Okay, I'm asking Curt Bedei with the La Salle County Tourism Coalition, officially how to
pronounce this area, as I've heard it a few different ways on my trip already. Well, so we're in
LaSalle County, and I work the city of LaSalle, then we have the LaSalle County
(01:39):
Tourism Coalition, again, it's kind of like we're our own little state, so whatever part of the
LaSalle you're from, they say it differently. Okay, so now that we got that straight,
we're heading out into nature at popular Starved Rock State Park in LaSalle County.
(01:59):
Since the late 1800s, travelers have been recreating at this area now a State Park Oasis,
where you can hike along 13 miles of trails to sandstone Canyon's waterfalls, to spot bald
eagles, and more. There are great activities here for families, including your four-legged friends,
(02:20):
as dogs are welcome. I'm starting out at starved Rock Lodge, a 1930s era, stone and log lodge that's
a national historic landmark. Kathy Casstevens, who grew up coming to Starved Rock State Park as a child,
and now works here, is meeting me. Starved Rock Lodge has rooms within the lodge, historic
(02:41):
knotty pine, the real authentic kind from the 1930s, and then our newer wing, which is closer to the
pool. So if you like that, and then we have cabins on each side of the property, some are stand-alone
cabins, some are family cabins, and some even have wood burning fireplaces. So you can cozy up to
a wood burning fireplace after you've taken this nice hike. Yes, or in the morning when you wake up.
You know, our new theme is wake up with nature because it's a really good feeling,
(03:05):
and a lot of serenity and peace comes with it. Kathy walks me outside to take a short and
peaceful stroll to the top of Starved Rock. The best thing and most important thing that you can do
is walk to the top of Starved Rock. Of course. And then of course you have to learn why it was name Starved
Rock, so you can tell your children and grandchildren. But we're going to take that quintessential
hike right now. It's always nice to see a place with a local like Kathy, who's truly passionate about
(03:29):
the area. So now we're going to go up to the top of Starved Rock and see what it's all about. It's
about 86 steps to the top, so it's not hugely strenuous, and there are breaks along the way. So that
makes it easier. So we'll get our workout in today Kathy. I'm all about that. So right there is where
you sit. When I was a kid. Oh, you have a picture of me by the tree. Oh, so you grew up here. Yes.
(03:52):
So the first thing that you see when you're around this corner is lovers leap. It's the bluff next
to the one that Starved Rock is on. So you'll see pelicans down there. They look small, but really
their wingspan is about as wide as my arms. Oh wow. I've noticed a ton of birds along this area,
along the Illinois River. This particular part of the Illinois River is called the Mississippi
Flyway, so it attracts all different kinds of birds from the north and the south as they take their
(04:15):
migratory paths. Birdwatching is a popular pastime in the park, which is situated along one of
the most important bird migration routes in the Midwest. I really love how it's always different.
Every season is different, even though I've gone to the same place, it's like Monet, you know,
going to the Haystacks. You may go to the same waterfall year after year, and it's always different
for some reason. And so I find that to be always unveiling new things, new things to photograph.
(04:41):
So if you're a photographer, this is your place. It's just Instagram, really, and never changing,
but still untouched by human hands. You know, so there's that element where it's not changed at all,
and then when you look closely, you can see subtle changes. Maybe based on weather, but,
you know, still subtle changes. A lot of people don't realize we have three great parks here.
You know, Buffalo Rock has two bison and residents, Matthiessen State Park has two amazing waterfalls in
(05:04):
it there we're seeing, but having your headquarters at Starved Rock Lodge puts you just steps away from
the park, Starved Rock State Park trails, and then just a short drive to free parking at the other parks.
So I think it's the proximity to the trails and the experiences you can have within a day trip,
and the hikes are not that strenuous. So that's what really is appealing. Climbing to the top of
(05:24):
Starved Rock, you get a totally different vantage point than down below amid the canyons.
It's beautiful up here, and you really get a feel for the rich panoramic views that you can have
the cultural history, geology, and so much more. We're hiking to St. Louis Canyon, one of the most
stunning canyons in the park. So Starved Rock State Park covers 2600 acres, and today we're only going to
(05:45):
see a small portion of it. There are 18 canyons here, and many of them have seasonal waterfalls.
A lot of the names and canyons and cabins around here are named after explorers. A lot of them were
French, St. Louis, Juliette, Marquette, so we're following in the footsteps of French explorers.
And many, many, many who came before them. One of the reasons I chose St Louis is because of the
(06:07):
contrast. In front of us we have this really dark rock with the moss and you can see how cold it is,
and then when you look left you see these sandstone structures that are so beautiful,
and then completely different from what we just saw to the other direction.
And the sand beneath our feet here. The whole rock is made out of St. Peter sandstone,
and this is the runoff. We don't import it to make hiking on the trails easier, but it's beautiful,
(06:29):
and it's fun to hike on. Yeah, I didn't expect to find a beach here in the forest.
And while it's beachy weathered here for our early fall hike, this park is a year-round destination,
and in the winter when it's really cold, the waterfalls we're looking at can actually freeze,
lending themselves to other forms of recreation.
So you know winter tourism has become a thing because people really want to get outside year-round,
(06:55):
and so one of the spectator sports that's growing as well as for people to participate themselves
is ice climbing. But the thing is you got to go when those ice falls form, you've got to go,
and it might be 29 below zero. So the people that did it made a film, you might have seen it,
and we're very proud of it, and we hope that a lot of things happen where people try the sport,
(07:16):
where women get involved, and just more people go out to see it because it's fun to watch.
We head back to the lodge where I'm ready to dive into food and drinks,
and Kathy assures me there are a lot of choices. Well the main dining room has a fireplace in it,
and so in the cold weather it's very nice to have that ambiance, and on Saturday nights like
we have primary specials, but our menu is quite elaborate, so there's something for everyone.
(07:38):
Sunday brunch is a crowd-pleaser for people of all ages with all different interests.
So you can eat in the main dining room breakfast, lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch,
and then right behind that is the lounge where you can have sandwiches and things like that,
and then outside the door is our veranda, which overlooks the scenic Illinois River Valley,
but we serve burgers and lots of other things with that great view. And then down at the visitor
(08:00):
center I have trailhead's concessions, we have great gourmet, artisan ice cream sandwiches,
souvenirs of course. For travelers who want to visit Starved Rock State Park,
in addition to lodging on site, there are also unique and pet-friendly places to stay in nearby
Ottawa, where I stayed on my trip. Glamping at nearby Camp Aramoni, covered in another upcoming
Travels with Darley Podcasts, and more. Wherever you lay your head, you'll sleep well
(08:25):
following a day in the great outdoors, perhaps with the sound of waterfalls repeating in your mind.
If you like adventure, keep up with new places to travel by listening to more of the Travels
with Darley Podcasts and subscribing, and look for my series Travels with Darlie on PBS and streaming.
Illinois is called the Prairie State, but in this podcast episode you'll discover a part of the
(00:05):
state where rock canyons, waterfalls, and rivers remind us of the diversity of the terrain in Illinois.
Starved Rock State Park covers 2600 acres. There are 18 canyons here in many of them have
seasonal waterfalls. We're traveling less than an hour and a half southwest of Chicago to
Starved Rock State Parkto hike with Kathy Casstevens who grew up frequenting this state park that's
(00:28):
loved by locals and travelers alike. We're sharing an immersive adventure visiting the park,
as well as practical takeaways for your trip on this Travels with Darley Podcast in Illinois.
We're hiking into history and nature in Starved Rock Country, located in La Salle County in Illinois.
(00:53):
This part of Illinois is popular for lovers of small town charms, street art, local craft beer,
wine, and spirits, and nature, and a quick escape if you're visiting Chicago. I've been to this area
before to film for my PBS series Travels with Darley, and I can tell you that one thing that
may confuse you if you're visiting we're going to work out here at the start. How exactly do you
(01:14):
pronounce the area's name? I think it's all in the context of how you're presenting your sentence.
Okay, I'm asking Curt Bedei with the La Salle County Tourism Coalition, officially how to
pronounce this area, as I've heard it a few different ways on my trip already. Well, so we're in
LaSalle County, and I work the city of LaSalle, then we have the LaSalle County
(01:39):
Tourism Coalition, again, it's kind of like we're our own little state, so whatever part of the
LaSalle you're from, they say it differently. Okay, so now that we got that straight,
we're heading out into nature at popular Starved Rock State Park in LaSalle County.
(01:59):
Since the late 1800s, travelers have been recreating at this area now a State Park Oasis,
where you can hike along 13 miles of trails to sandstone Canyon's waterfalls, to spot bald
eagles, and more. There are great activities here for families, including your four-legged friends,
(02:20):
as dogs are welcome. I'm starting out at starved Rock Lodge, a 1930s era, stone and log lodge that's
a national historic landmark. Kathy Casstevens, who grew up coming to Starved Rock State Park as a child,
and now works here, is meeting me. Starved Rock Lodge has rooms within the lodge, historic
(02:41):
knotty pine, the real authentic kind from the 1930s, and then our newer wing, which is closer to the
pool. So if you like that, and then we have cabins on each side of the property, some are stand-alone
cabins, some are family cabins, and some even have wood burning fireplaces. So you can cozy up to
a wood burning fireplace after you've taken this nice hike. Yes, or in the morning when you wake up.
You know, our new theme is wake up with nature because it's a really good feeling,
(03:05):
and a lot of serenity and peace comes with it. Kathy walks me outside to take a short and
peaceful stroll to the top of Starved Rock. The best thing and most important thing that you can do
is walk to the top of Starved Rock. Of course. And then of course you have to learn why it was name Starved
Rock, so you can tell your children and grandchildren. But we're going to take that quintessential
hike right now. It's always nice to see a place with a local like Kathy, who's truly passionate about
(03:29):
the area. So now we're going to go up to the top of Starved Rock and see what it's all about. It's
about 86 steps to the top, so it's not hugely strenuous, and there are breaks along the way. So that
makes it easier. So we'll get our workout in today Kathy. I'm all about that. So right there is where
you sit. When I was a kid. Oh, you have a picture of me by the tree. Oh, so you grew up here. Yes.
(03:52):
So the first thing that you see when you're around this corner is lovers leap. It's the bluff next
to the one that Starved Rock is on. So you'll see pelicans down there. They look small, but really
their wingspan is about as wide as my arms. Oh wow. I've noticed a ton of birds along this area,
along the Illinois River. This particular part of the Illinois River is called the Mississippi
Flyway, so it attracts all different kinds of birds from the north and the south as they take their
(04:15):
migratory paths. Birdwatching is a popular pastime in the park, which is situated along one of
the most important bird migration routes in the Midwest. I really love how it's always different.
Every season is different, even though I've gone to the same place, it's like Monet, you know,
going to the Haystacks. You may go to the same waterfall year after year, and it's always different
for some reason. And so I find that to be always unveiling new things, new things to photograph.
(04:41):
So if you're a photographer, this is your place. It's just Instagram, really, and never changing,
but still untouched by human hands. You know, so there's that element where it's not changed at all,
and then when you look closely, you can see subtle changes. Maybe based on weather, but,
you know, still subtle changes. A lot of people don't realize we have three great parks here.
You know, Buffalo Rock has two bison and residents, Matthiessen State Park has two amazing waterfalls in
(05:04):
it there we're seeing, but having your headquarters at Starved Rock Lodge puts you just steps away from
the park, Starved Rock State Park trails, and then just a short drive to free parking at the other parks.
So I think it's the proximity to the trails and the experiences you can have within a day trip,
and the hikes are not that strenuous. So that's what really is appealing. Climbing to the top of
(05:24):
Starved Rock, you get a totally different vantage point than down below amid the canyons.
It's beautiful up here, and you really get a feel for the rich panoramic views that you can have
the cultural history, geology, and so much more. We're hiking to St. Louis Canyon, one of the most
stunning canyons in the park. So Starved Rock State Park covers 2600 acres, and today we're only going to
(05:45):
see a small portion of it. There are 18 canyons here, and many of them have seasonal waterfalls.
A lot of the names and canyons and cabins around here are named after explorers. A lot of them were
French, St. Louis, Juliette, Marquette, so we're following in the footsteps of French explorers.
And many, many, many who came before them. One of the reasons I chose St Louis is because of the
(06:07):
contrast. In front of us we have this really dark rock with the moss and you can see how cold it is,
and then when you look left you see these sandstone structures that are so beautiful,
and then completely different from what we just saw to the other direction.
And the sand beneath our feet here. The whole rock is made out of St. Peter sandstone,
and this is the runoff. We don't import it to make hiking on the trails easier, but it's beautiful,
(06:29):
and it's fun to hike on. Yeah, I didn't expect to find a beach here in the forest.
And while it's beachy weathered here for our early fall hike, this park is a year-round destination,
and in the winter when it's really cold, the waterfalls we're looking at can actually freeze,
lending themselves to other forms of recreation.
So you know winter tourism has become a thing because people really want to get outside year-round,
(06:55):
and so one of the spectator sports that's growing as well as for people to participate themselves
is ice climbing. But the thing is you got to go when those ice falls form, you've got to go,
and it might be 29 below zero. So the people that did it made a film, you might have seen it,
and we're very proud of it, and we hope that a lot of things happen where people try the sport,
(07:16):
where women get involved, and just more people go out to see it because it's fun to watch.
We head back to the lodge where I'm ready to dive into food and drinks,
and Kathy assures me there are a lot of choices. Well the main dining room has a fireplace in it,
and so in the cold weather it's very nice to have that ambiance, and on Saturday nights like
we have primary specials, but our menu is quite elaborate, so there's something for everyone.
(07:38):
Sunday brunch is a crowd-pleaser for people of all ages with all different interests.
So you can eat in the main dining room breakfast, lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch,
and then right behind that is the lounge where you can have sandwiches and things like that,
and then outside the door is our veranda, which overlooks the scenic Illinois River Valley,
but we serve burgers and lots of other things with that great view. And then down at the visitor
(08:00):
center I have trailhead's concessions, we have great gourmet, artisan ice cream sandwiches,
souvenirs of course. For travelers who want to visit Starved Rock State Park,
in addition to lodging on site, there are also unique and pet-friendly places to stay in nearby
Ottawa, where I stayed on my trip. Glamping at nearby Camp Aramoni, covered in another upcoming
Travels with Darley Podcasts, and more. Wherever you lay your head, you'll sleep well
(08:25):
following a day in the great outdoors, perhaps with the sound of waterfalls repeating in your mind.
If you like adventure, keep up with new places to travel by listening to more of the Travels
with Darley Podcasts and subscribing, and look for my series Travels with Darlie on PBS and streaming.
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