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November 27, 2024 15 mins
Head to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina and experience Brookgreen Gardens and The Hammock Shops Village, classic Grand Strand destinations that TV host and travel expert Darley Newman frequented as a child. Darley takes you “Home for the Holidays” with Page Kiniry and Andrea DeMuth at Brookgreen Gardens to learn about the Nights of a Thousand Candles and meet Marsh Tacky horses. Get into the holiday spirit at The Hammock Shops Village in Pawleys Island with a visit to the Christmas Mouse and Southern cuisine at Local. Enjoy modern and classic Myrtle Beach destinations in this immersive podcast with practical travel tips.
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Episode Transcript

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(00:00):
A wonderland of roses, oak trees dripping in Spanish moss, globally renowned art, sculpture, poetry, and goats?

(00:09):
We're stepping into the magical and surprising world of Brookgreen Gardens, a botanical oasis just down the street from the hustle and bustle of
Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. It's so peaceful. Where year-round events, attract locals and travelers.
Because of the unique collection, people come from all over the world.
Including during the holiday season. I frequently visited Brookgreen Gardens growing up in Myrtle Beach.

(00:32):
My grandmother would bring me to the gardens. A teacher, she used to sit amid the gardens quietly reading while I had the chance to explore nearby,
pretending I'd perhaps traveled to some far-flung location, lost amid the stunning beauty.
Over 9,000 acres are home to 2,000 works by 430 artists, and we're taking a deep dive into this South Carolina gem on an insider's tour.

(00:59):
Then we'll head further down the road for holiday cheer at the historic Hammock Shops in Pawleys Island, where boiled peanuts, rocking chairs, and Christmas vibes mix together for true Southern charm.
It's the Travels with Darley Podcast. Where we travel like the locals to locations near and far, and in this special series, you're going home with me to

(01:21):
Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, my hometown. We'll discover classic places like Brookgreen Gardens and something new.
Opened in the 1930s as the first public sculpture garden in America, Brookgreen Gardens' mission is to collect, preserve,
and exhibit American figurative sculpture and plants and animals of the Southeast to make sure they live on today.

(01:48):
It's a true treasure that we have the privilege of learning about from its President and CEO, Page Kiniry.
It's very mysterious, it's easy to get lost, but sometimes getting lost is a great thing so.
Looking just a bit Irish in her emerald green dress and green toned wrap with her long reddish tinted hair,

(02:09):
she takes me for a walk along the same lanes I walked at ages 6, 7, 8, 9, and beyond.
So you're in Oak Allée, which is the center of the garden. This is the body of the butterfly.
Anna Huntington, who founded the garden with her husband Archer, actually, did the landscape design, and it's in the shape of a butterfly,

(02:33):
so this was the road that would go from the plantation home all the way to the ocean. These oaks are 280 years old.
Planted at the time to connect the driveway, although most of the visitors would come from the water.
So this backs up to the Waccamaw River, which is the Intercoastal Waterway. There's a creek behind, Brookgreen Creek.

(02:59):
Located on the site of former rice plantations, this preserved land is altogether a peaceful place to stroll, enjoy art, learn about history, and spend time with friends and family, including those who need paved surfaces to travel around.
I love seeing these beautiful trees with the Spanish moss dripping. Nothing says the south like that. Oh yes, well, Spanish moss and these resurrection ferns.

(03:22):
Oh yes, well, Spanish moss and these resurrection ferns. Am I the only one who's getting actress Laura Linney vibes from Page Kiniry's voice? They kinda look alike too.
Share with me a little bit about the layout here, cause we walked not far from the visitor center, and it's nice and paved, so it's easy footing for people.
It is. You can walk for miles here through the garden, through the arboretum, down to the zoo, the history center.

(03:49):
So there's about 250 acres of manicured garden, but we are 9,127 acres of wildlife sanctuary.
So we keep the majority of the property in longleaf pine forests that we manage for endangered species like red-cockaded woodpecker, gopher tortoise, and participate in other conservation programming.

(04:12):
So especially in a place like Myrtle Beach where we need to have wild areas for migratory waterfowl, for wildlife,
Brookgreen really is a sanctuary in the middle of the beach and the developed area.
Brookgreen Gardens works to preserve native plants and to be a sustainable steward of their legacy.
It's beautiful to look at also as you walk, not only, you know, the greenery and the cultivated spaces, but also some of the spaces feel cultivated

(04:41):
and then some of them feel a little bit more wild.
A little wild, yes.
Well, our plant collection is the majority of it are native plants.
So part of our mission is to educate and through our plant sales, send native plants out to the world for people to use because they do require less water, less maintenance, less pesticide than non-native plants for the most part.

(05:09):
And they can be beautiful. So part of our mission is to showcase how wild spaces can be both manicured and, you know, left to look at like natural habitat.
For travelers seeking to be educated on a strong female figure from our past, Brookgreen Gardens' founder, artist Anna Huntington, has a great story.
So when we entered the Oak Allée, you passed Diana of the Chase, which is one of Anna Huntington's most famous sculptures.

(05:37):
It was actually in their Manhattan apartment before they founded Brookgreen Gardens.
Anna was a very successful, one of the most financially successful women of her period.
She produced for Gorham Company and other small sculptures and then the 1920s and was, you know, very financially successful.
So she got TB and needed a place that was warmer to be able to sculpt, and that's why they purchased this property initially. But almost from the day they bought it, they realized this needed to be open to the public.

(06:10):
And she had sculpture. It was now the Depression in the 1931.
And many of her friends were no longer getting art commissions because of the Great Depression. So she began to collect art.
Being married to Archer Huntington, was a famous philanthropist and heir to the fortune of the intercontinental railroad and the shipyard, all the Huntington businesses.

(06:38):
So they were in a unique position to be able to both create an economy here, which was a very depressed area. This being the site of Gullah Geechee History for enslaved Africans who were here with creating rice field economy in the 1930s.
No longer viable for growing rice, which was, this is the site of four rice plantations. And you know many people here were really suffering.

(07:06):
So they created an industry building the infrastructure of the garden and then she purchased art. So Diana of the Chase is one of the first sculptures that really harkens to the type of collection we have.
It's the largest figurative art collection in the world, American figurative art. So that is, you know, not abstract. So this is all figurative work that's either people, animals, representational art.

(07:32):
So she has a few of the sculptures like this one is a gilded sculpture, but you'll see a variety of material. This is bronze. You'll see stone, granite, marble. So it's a really spectacular collection.
We're visiting the gardens at a busy time. We pass a school group and also many Brookgreen Gardens volunteers. It's the lead up to Nights of a Thousand Candles, which happens annually during the holiday season.

(08:02):
Well, this event was created 25 years ago and it was an all volunteer run event at the time. Now we have over 500 volunteers here that do the work of about 40 full-time employees in every department.
But of course for Nights of a Thousand Candles, you know, they're wrapping trees. They're, every night we have to light all these candles. So they're out, you known, working in all areas of the gardens, welcoming people, interpreting in the gardens.

(08:30):
We will see this light at night with beautiful, beautiful lights everywhere.
And different types of light displays. So there's some that are, you know, cafe lights, jarred lights, twinkling lights. There is some color.
The children's garden in particular is just a riot of all different colors and there's a large oak tree there that's wrapped in tons of color. It is a family tradition. It incorporates music and theater productions, amazing lights, and then over two thousand hand lit candles.

(09:03):
So that makes it a really special experience. And just being in the garden at night, you're seeing things in a different light. The sculptures are illuminated. It's very mysterious. It's easy to get lost. But sometimes getting lost is a great thing so.

(09:25):
We're walking amid the manicured gardens and sculptures. But Page informs me that the Floyd Family Farm at the Lowcountry Zoo on the property, the same ticket that gave me access to the gardens can get me access to see heritage breeds of animals.
We're going to see the Marsh Tacky horses. When I found out they had Marsh Tacky horses here, which is a rare breed and they are South Carolina's State Horse,

(09:49):
I said, we have to go down and see them. So let's check 'em out. Andrea DeMuth, Vice President and Curator of Zoo Collections takes me to see two Marsh Tacky horses, a red dun Marsh Tacky gelding named Charlie and a beautiful bay Marsh Tacky horse named Tuff.
So we have Tuff and Charlie and they're both certified Marsh Tacky horses. We're walking under the dappled shade of large oak trees over to where Charlie and Tuff are munching on hay.

(10:20):
You know, and they've got their identifier numbers from their stud book and have had DNA tested on them at some point when they started the project to try to save the Marsh Tackies.
So Tuff, the owners have loaned them to us so that we can have them on exhibit kind of as their retirement job representing Marsh Tacky horses for the Marsh Tacky Association.

(10:43):
The Carolina Marsh Tacky Association is working to preserve this rare breed of horses, a breed that I recently got to ride in Camden, South Carolina, while filming for a "Travels with Darley Revolutionary Road Trip" PBS episode.
This rare breed played a role in the Revolution and throughout history.
Charlie has a, the prominent stripe on his back. He does and he also has the stripes on his legs. And so as you see more of Marsh Tackies, you know, that's what you can look at to see.

(11:13):
Look who's coming back. He's just going, "pet me." He's like, "don't leave me."
But the other thing, Marsh Tackies have different to them is that their rump is a little more sloped the way it is. And that's what gives them that sure-footedness going through the swamp.
So supposedly the stories are that Francis Marion used Marsh Tackies with his troops because he could go straight through the swamp and surprise the British who are riding on, you know, big tall thoroughbreds that are picky about stuff.

(11:46):
So they were a very good horse considering they were wild in on the, all the Outer Banks of South Carolina.
Travelers can also see other heritage breeds like Dominique Chickens, Red Devon Cows, Spanish Goats and Tunis Sheep.
The Tunis Sheep originally were brought over with settlers that came over here. And actually we found an article and a picture that shows Tunis Sheep on the White House lawn years and years ago,

(12:14):
where they were, some were donated to President Eisenhower from some fancy dignitary over in India.
And then we have Devon Cattle, which would have originally come from England. And they were just a very hearty breed of cattle that can survive on just, you know, the least, just as long as they have something to eat.
It doesn't have to be anything special.

(12:35):
Tuff is friendly and welcoming. As I scratch his withers, he wins my heart. Tuff is not tough at all. Tuff is like the sweetest horse.
And his certified name is Southern Legend.
A legendary visit to these wonderful gardens. Where preservation, sustainability, nature, art and animals take center stage.

(12:59):
If you head further South along Hwy 17, you'll end up in Pawleys Island, where you can visit another one of my childhood haunts that's popular for travelers, The Hammock Shops Village in Pawleys Island.
This quaint set of over 20 shops and restaurants dates back to 1938. It's a true Grand Strand classic.

(13:23):
Started by a local captain, looking to market... you guessed it, hammocks, The Hammock Shops Village is set up like a little village with each establishment located in white cottages.
Walking among the cultivated greenery on brick sidewalks lined with white rocking chairs and benches and shaded by oak trees dripping in Spanish moss is really beautiful.

(13:46):
I see a sign for the upcoming Christmas Tree Lighting and Santa Schedule as we work our way past the General Store towards the Christmas Mouse. A 2700 foot store filled with garland, eggnog, carton ornaments, holiday flamingo nutcrackers and more.
If you want ornaments, if you want wreaths, if you want really anything that has to do with Christmas, perhaps a Christmas kitty cat. You'll find it here.

(14:13):
This is one of a few locations to get lost and truly feel just a little bit of Christmas.
My colleague Evelyn Kwan Green is with me on this trip and we decide to dine at a restaurant I've never tried before,
Local. We order homestyle macaroni and cheese,
boiled peanuts cooked in roasted garlic broth and topped with parmesan Reggiano cheese and we rest a while amid the easy breezy ambiance of the regally southern Hammock Shops.

(14:43):
So if you're visiting Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand during the holidays or any time of the year, enjoy a respite, unplugging at Brookgreen Gardens, dining and shopping at The Hammocks Shops and taking a break from the every day
at these special, classic beach locations. For more great travel tips for Myrtle Beach and holiday fun, stay tuned for my next podcasts, taking you to more Myrtle Beach landmarks old and new,

(15:10):
from the Carolina Opry to mini golf, to the Myrtle Beach State Park and more.
Thanks for listening to the Travels with Darley Podcast and stay tuned for more adventures, where traveling with the locals, we learn a lot and have fun too.
Happy holidays!
[Music]
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