March 18, 2022 • 33 mins
This fresh cheese gets its spring and string from being worked like a dough as it’s made. Anney and Lauren dig into the science and history of mozzarella.
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Speaker 1 (00:08):
Hello, and welcome to Savor production of I Heart Radio.
I'm Annie Reese and I'm Lauren voc Obama, and today
we have an episode for you about mozzarella. Yes, the cheese.
We love cheese here, it's Saber, Yes, And we were
just discussing how much we in America love cheese and
particularly mozzarella. Yeah. Yeah, I don't think I realized, all right,
(00:33):
Maybe I just never thought about how much of an
like an American phenomenon mozzarella cheese is. Yeah. Yeah, we
we definitely love it here, and I feel like I
go through phases with it. Um, I really love it,
but it's kind of like not if I'm going to
(00:53):
get a cheese, it's not the cheese I'm gonna get. Um,
when I was a kid, I really love the mozzarella
string cheese, these which I know people have opinions on,
I understand. And fresh matzarella can be like divine. Oh yeah,
so lovely, so lovely. Yes, And I love a good
caprase salad. Yeah, oh my gosh. I actually after we
(01:17):
did this, I did the research for this, I got
the stuff to make one, and it's like not the
time to make one at all. But I'm going to
have one. Um, oh no, that's that's why this was.
I mean, I don't know, like, yeah, this was a
very serious craving episode. I was like, oh no. The
more I started thinking about it, the more I was
just like, I absolutely need a capraise and a pizza. Yes, yes,
(01:38):
because as I said yes in the pizza episode, Margharita
pizza A good margharitea pizza well done, Margarita pizza is
my favorite's the best, so simple, so perfect. Yes, And
I was thinking about this too. Um, Like fried mazzarella
sticks when I was a kid, I loved those share
the best. I still love them. There are there are
(02:00):
a few bars around Atlanta that I mean, like, I'm
not sure if a mozzarella stick is ever like good, right,
but there's something just so like greasy and wonderful about them,
and it's just like, yes, I believe we used to
there was a bar we used to go to after
work and we would get some sometimes and it was delightful,
(02:21):
warm and just perfect perfect. You can see our past
cheese episodes, because yes, we do love cheese, and we
tried to do one an episode on cheese fairly regularly.
Yeah ish ish um, I every time, we every every time,
(02:41):
I'm like, yeah, let's do another cheese. I go through
like seven that we've already done, having forgotten that we've
already done them, and then finally hit on one, like
I didn't even check and see if we've done mozzarella
because I was so convinced to we have done mozzarella.
But here we are, so here we are, and we've
got a lot of ground of her. It's great. Yes,
(03:03):
And you can also see the mentioned aforementioned pizza episode
because we do talk about it a little bit there.
But I guess this brings us to our question mozzarella.
What is it? Well, uh, Mazzarella is a type of fresh, soft,
unaged cheese that you you make by by working. It's
(03:24):
sort of like a dough until it's stretchy and stringy
and rich and salty. Um. And those stretchy, stringy properties
aren't so obvious when you eat it chilled and moist um,
it'll be springy but pretty tender. However, those properties really
ramp up when you heat the cheese or dry it
out a little bit. Um. It's like a It's like
(03:46):
if Nickelodeon made of cheese in and like the nicest
way possible. Um, I love it. It's like it's like
a cheese that really admires taffy. Mm hmm, yeah, I
(04:09):
can see that. I feel like I'm I feel like
I'm not making it sound nearly as delicious as it is,
which is very delicious, Yes, very delicious. Um. You can
make mazzarella from different kinds of milk, but um, but
water buffalo is the most traditional and cow is now
the most common. And okay, so, stretched fresh cheeses are
(04:33):
a category called an Italian pasta falada um. So let
us talk about the science of stretch. But first we
need to do another cheese. One oh one, oh yes, okay.
So to make cheese, you start write with milk um,
which is an emulsion, a stable blend of little globs
(04:56):
of fats and stuff spread pretty evenly throughout water and stuff.
It's stable because of these proteins in milk called caseines
that are pretty complex. They have parts that are hydrophilic
or like water, in parts that are lipophilic or like fat,
and so when presented with both water and fat, the
caseines will grab up bits of fat and cluster um
(05:19):
cluster into globules called my cells with the fats hoarded
up on the inside and and the water loving hydrophilic
bits on the outside. And these my cells are negatively
charged particles, which means that they repel each other. So
if you give them a neutral base of water to
float around in, they will disperse themselves evenly throughout, creating
(05:40):
an emulsion. Okay, So to make liquid milk into solid cheese,
you need to de emulsify it a k A. Coagulate
it by mucking around with those my cells, which you
can do in a few ways, um, but like a
really solid one um No. Pun intended is to neutralize
the my cell's charge so that they stopped repelling each other,
(06:01):
which you can do by adding something acidic to the mix.
Acid neutralizes them my cells and they start clumping together.
You can also add enzymes like rennett that help break
apart the casein proteins that make up the outer walls
of the my cells, which serves to uh to to
help clump the proteins and fats together. Those clumps are
(06:24):
your cheese cards, um. And the water and stuff that
they separate up from is the way and how you
handle the curds next or this whole time. Really, um
is going to determine what kind of cheese you wind
up with. If you add too much acid, you're going
to wind up with a crumbly cheese. UM. For for
for melty, stretchy mozzarella, you want a relatively um high
(06:49):
pH like like not too acidic like usually very specifically
in the load to mid fives, depending on a number
of variables that are too too many are ables to
get into here. Um. But this is like justicific enough
to dissolve some of the calcium phosphate in the caseine proteins,
(07:09):
which lets them hydrate more, which keeps them flexible. I'm
summarizing a great deal right now. I read. I read
so much science about mozzrela cheese. You guys, they're like
certain episodes where I think I've said this before, but
our research process can be just so different what I'm
(07:31):
researching versus what you're researching. And sometimes I'll just be like, oh, Laura,
oh no, Yeah, I was saying to Annie before we
started this one. I was saying, like, I like, I knew,
I know every time we do a cheese episode it's
going to be science heavy, but like I didn't realize
how science heavy like I did not realize the depths
(07:54):
of like thermo mechanical research that have been done into
lots a rella cheese. I maintain it's pizza based. It's
our love of pizza and stuff in cheese and every
orifice we can find pizza. No, I mean, I mean
(08:14):
for for serious, like it's it's between cheese sticks and
um and and pizza and all of these other products
that we make. Like yeah, it's okay. So anyway, anyway,
we've we've got some nice We've got some nice hydrated
caseine proteins is what we have, Okay, okay, And for mozzarella,
(08:36):
you you also want to continue mucking around with those
caseine proteins in the curd um, encouraging them to form
up into these long, flexible parallel chains. So what you
do is you heat the curd in salted water, and
every so often you take it out and you stretch
(08:57):
it over and over again in a single direction, which
will line up chain up and line up the protein
strands and trap fats and waters in among the strands
um and these tiny tiny thread like pockets or channels.
And this is different from the structure of something like
a like a cheddar, which is like an even web
(09:18):
of proteins and fats, and a lower moisture content. The
finished mazzarella will be white or maybe a little bit
yellow in color, depending on the diet of the cow
um or water buffalo in question. And yeah, stringy and
melty and stretchy and a little salty um. And it
will be packaged in water or brine to keep it
soft and moist um. And I'm sorry they keep saying
(09:41):
the word moist monster, but it is like a really
high moisture content. It's like it's like between forty eight
and moisture content, which is high. Um. So uh. To
make string cheese, you keep stretching the moths um and
let it dry out a little bit until it's write
like a firm fibrous stick. Firm fibrous stick. Um. And yeah,
(10:11):
fresh mozzarella can be served chilled room temperature and salads
or sandwiches or pastas. It can be baked into casseroles.
It can be melted into sandwiches or on top of
pizza or on top of more other pastas. Yeah, yeah,
I want to do all of those right now too. Well,
(10:36):
what about the nutrition? Mozarella is pretty good for you. Um.
It has a lot of protein and micronutrients. It can
be high in fats and salts um, depending on what
kind of milk it's made from. Buffalo milk is fattier
than cow milk. Uh. There's also a lot of science
and research going into how to um make manufactured monts
(11:00):
arella products that are less fatty and less salty. UM.
So I mean obviously coating them in bread crumbs and
deep frying them is going to make them less healthy. Um.
(11:20):
With any cheese, I would say, watch your portion sizes. UM.
Usually a serving of cheese. And I know this horrifies
you Annie every time I say it is about an ounce,
which is not a lot of cheese. Um. Oh, but
but treats are nice. It's okay to have treats. And
also yeah, like I mean, like you're still getting protein.
(11:41):
I'd like eat a vegetable. It's good. Yeah. I'm excited
about mica crazy yeah yeah. Um, we do have some
numbers for you a couple um. Alright, So, the mozzarella
global market is worth around thirty seven point three billion
(12:04):
dollars UM as of this year, and is expected to
grow over the next few years. UM. The US is
the largest consumer of of mozzarella, accounting for about a
quarter of the global market. Um. Nobody else even comes close.
I don't think. Um. And uh. Separately from that, though,
(12:25):
about a quarter of the market is packaged shredded mozzarella.
What what I mean? I guess it makes sense in
terms of like, especially like in the restaurant industry or something. Yeah,
like if you're just buying, I don't know. I think
(12:46):
a lot of cast rules call for it. Or if
you're making pizza at home and you don't want to
shred your own and you want that low, lower moisture content, UM,
so that you're not like steaming your dough in the oven. UM.
I don't know anyway. Um. The official Guinness record for
the longest mazzarella was won by a tourism group for Avellino,
(13:08):
Italy in um. It measured a hundred and six meters
and sixteen long. That's uh, three hundred and forty eight
feet four inches. That's a long mazzarella. UM. The unofficial
record for the longest string cheese was set in Wisconsin,
(13:28):
and it was three thousand, eight hundred and thirty two
ft long. Oh my gosh, oh um and uh. In
order to make it, uh, they lined up some like
one thousand, seven hundred local residents through this town like
like through like like three city blocks and and like
(13:51):
handed them like they all like passed the string cheese
out to one another and then like a doubled back.
It was the equivalent of some thirty thousand cheese sticks.
What what Oh my gosh, I'm just imagining if fiasco
(14:15):
were like somebody chipped and foul and just like a
domino factor in cheese hits the ground, so cheese. Not
to take away from this accomplishment, no cheese accomplishments and records,
this was recent, I mean ongoing, not giving up in
this arena. Wow, all right, but this did not happen
(14:42):
in a vacuum. Um. There's a lot of history that
had to occur to take us to this nearly four
thousand foot long cheese stick. Indeed, and we will get
into that history after we take a quick break for
a word from our sponsor, and we're back. Thank you sponsor, Yes,
(15:08):
thank you so yes. You can see our past episodes
on the cheeses that we've done already. UM and yogurt
I think relevant. Um that has more of the history
of cheese in general. But the basic story is that
someone are someone's because this probably happens somewhat accidentally all
over the place. Was traveling via animal transport or some
(15:31):
kind of transport with milk in a bag probably made
of animal stomach or skin, and the josceling plus the
temperature plus the time created cheese in this bag containing milk. Yes,
all right, and this is a separate episode. But briefly,
the water buffalo, which yes, has been the longtime main
(15:52):
milk supplier for mozzarella or especially traditional mozzarella, is thousands
of years old and was perhaps used as farm livestock
in Asia five thousand years ago. Historians argue over when
and how they were introduced to Italy, where mozzarella is
believed to have been refined. Um. Did Hannibal bring them
(16:13):
when he invaded Rome? Did the Crusaders bring them back
from the Middle East and six CE? Or perhaps the
Normans brought them from Sicily in one thousand CEM I
don't know. These are the questions though. Uh. They were
very valuable livestock. They were prized for their strength and
ability to cross marshland without sinking. Um and by the
(16:35):
twelfth century CE people in Italy were using them for
their milk. We're going to talk more about that in
a second, Okay, but all right, mozzarella. Just like so
many cheeses, the history of this one is incredibly fuzzy
and bursting with fun but unverified origin stories. Um. One
(16:57):
of the most popular ones detailing how and the Politan
cheesemaker in Italy accidentally dropped fresh cheese curds into a
bucket of hot water. Hoping to salvage something from the situation.
The cheesemaker stuck their hands into the water and found
that the cheese was malleable and stringy. The cheesemaker molded
and stretched the cheese until it was a unified mass
(17:19):
and pulled it from the water. Uh. And yeah. Some
sources even credit this whole again un verified incident with
the invention of pasta filada, which you mentioned earlier, Laura,
and the method of cheesemaking that involved needing and stretching
curds until they came together to form this ball of cheese. Um.
(17:40):
I mean, yeah, that's fun, possible, sure, Oh, mystery's history.
Many historians actually posit that ancient Romans were making an
early version of mozzarella using sheep's milk. Um, but yes.
It's generally believed that by the twelfth century, cheese making
using buffalo milk was in practice. Some stories go that
(18:03):
monks at the San Lorenzo monastery in a region of
southern Italy handed out something called mazza or m o
z z a. I'm assuming it's pronounced manza, but I
hope so. Um. They would hand this out to worshippers
when they completed their yearly pilgrimages. A couple of centuries later,
um mozza that could survive the travel was being sold
(18:24):
at markets in Naples and Solerno. By the mid eighteenth century,
water buffalo mozzarella was common throughout southern Italy. The word
mazzarella came into use in the sixteenth century, according to
some sources, though Meriam Webster puts it at nineteen eleven.
That would be when the word was in print in English.
Um so in Italian right, it could have been much earlier, Yes,
(18:48):
and to that point. Others argue the term was first
used in the fifteen seventy cookbook by Bartolomeo scapi Um.
The bourbons of the King of Two Sicilies frequently are
credited with significantly bolstering the breeding of water buffaloes during
the eighteenth century in southwestern Italy. So, um, basically a
lot going on. Chese was getting popular. I tried to
(19:11):
find this recipe in the book, because you can find
this person's scoffies cookbook online. I couldn't. I couldn't find
the actual thing. I believe it's in there. Um, it
was just not easy to search. And it's quite a yeah,
right right, but it's it seems like people were probably yeah,
they were using it for sure, alright. So, the large
(19:34):
wave of Italian immigrants that arrived in the US in
the early twentieth century carried with them their traditions around
handmade fresh mozzarella, making a few changes to adapt to
what was available, which is the story we've heard and
told a lot on this podcast. Um traditional Neapolitan water
buffalo milk was switched out for easier to obtain cow's milk.
(19:56):
Many of these immigrants arrived via Ellis Island in New
York and and he stayed in and around that area.
But over generations, Italian immigrants migrated and settled all across
the country, introducing mozzarella to their communities is kind of
a similar story we talked about with pizza other things
like that. Another thing that helped popularize mozzarella in Europe
(20:16):
and the US was the advent of refrigeration, allowing it
to be transported over longer distances. Meanwhile, uh, this could
be its own confusing episode. But mozzarellas sticks may have
been invented in the early seventies in Wisconsin by a
cheesemaker who was looking to offer like individual sized units
of cheese for for snacking to his customers. And it
(20:40):
seems that deep fried mozzarella sticks were developed a little
bit later in the seventies UM, during what is sometimes
referred to as the friar revolution. UM. This new technology
this could also be its whole, whole other episode. But
this new technology was making friars cheap and efficient and
convenient and a little bit less terrifying. Um. And so
(21:03):
that's when you got the proliferation of deep friars and uh,
lots of fast food joints and also um lots of
like pubs and bowling alleys and stuff like that. And
so you got deep fried snacks everywhere, Yes, yes, And
I tell you you see fried cheese on the menu.
You're having a good night, you want fried cheese. I
(21:26):
can imagine how exciting it would be when it was
first becoming more popular. All right, you're like, wait a minute,
you fried the cheese. I must have this now, please.
In the Consortium for the Protection of Campania Buffalo Mozzarella
was created with the goal of protecting, enhancing, and supervising
(21:48):
this cheese and its traditions. It is the only organization
accepted by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry recognizing
this cheese and Central and Southern Italy. Um. I know,
we gotta watch out for this cheese there. Hold on,
they're frying it over there in America. Um um uh
(22:13):
and yeah. Skipping ahead to you know, like like right
now ish and or the past decade or so, um,
there has been all kinds of research into how mozzarella
can be mass produced with less fat and salt to
help make a healthier product for our snacks. Mhm. Cheese
research ongoing. Oh yeah, I'm sure find out how to
(22:38):
make it melt here, because I know that's a big
issue with the shredded mozarella, as it doesn't melt as well.
Right well, yeah, yeah, that um. The anytime that you
muck around with the fat and the salt content, you're
also mucking around with the water content and um water
and the way that it's um in those kind of
channels through those those fibers of protein um. All. All
(23:02):
of that has to do with how it cheese melts
or doesn't melt and turns into a weird sticky mess
um and and so yeah, so like when you try
to do the one thing um, compensating by I don't know,
like adding different emulsifying salts or um as we've talked
about in our American Cheese episode, Yeah, like or like nachos,
(23:26):
I think in our nacho episode Yeah, um, stuff like
stuff like that, or mucking around with the pH level
or all of these other things can be done to
try to balance out, uh, what you're doing. Yeah yeah
um and I it's one of the things I'll see
in recipes a lot where it's like, don't get this
(23:47):
one type of cheese because they will never melt correctly.
So I know it's on people's minds. Yeah, of course,
there's like nothing more disappointing than like you have you
have that like that, like pizza commercial, pizza in your
head and with like with like the stretch that goes
like an arm length nest, and then you get something
that just kind of like crumbles and you're like, oh, no, oh,
(24:11):
that's not what I wanted. No, but that brings up
another point of the cheese that won't like if any
you're like stuck in this position of just continuously eating cheese,
which is fine if you're alone, but sometimes when you
are around other people, Yeah, not ideal, Yeah it can be,
it can be a little bit embarrassing. But if cheese
(24:32):
is waiting for me, then yeah, happily, whether the embarrassment absolutely,
I'm like, well, y'all are going to have to get
over this because it's delicious, it's happening, and I'm I'm
happy about it for you. Yes, well, I'm always happy
when we get to talk about cheese. Me too happy
(24:53):
and in a little a little worn out. Fair, fair enough,
But I think that's what we have to say about
Mozzarella Phone. Now it is. We do have some listener
mail for you, but first we've got one more quick
break for a word from our sponsors, and we're back.
(25:18):
Thank you, sponsor, Yes, thank you, And we're back with
Snore that was very silly. Thank you. I will take
that as a compliment, which is I believe it wasn't. Oh,
(25:41):
and this is exciting. We have a follow up email
from Kate who we read Kate's email. Previous email a
couple episodes ago, maybe the last episode, but recently. Um,
and it was about spiders, and Kate offered to send
us pictures and we were very excited about it. And
eight sent spider pictures with descriptions. Oh really really cool,
(26:08):
like best know every email is the best email. I'm sorry, um,
but best spider related email I've ever gotten on a
food podcast. Yes, I love it. I love it so much.
All right, Kate wrote about my spider first, Ah, your
spider friend sounds like a black house spider. Well that's
(26:30):
what I would say if you were in Australia. But
I have no idea about American species. I might be
going to California in July for a spider conference with
my boyfriend, so I shall learn all about them then,
so cool. Attached are some photos of all my little
or big spidies. First picture. We named her stand will
(26:50):
Amina because it sounds like the genus name. She is
a Melbourne chapter spider who burrows in the ground and
doesn't come out much. My friend saved her while they
were doing house renovations. The next picture Sydney funnel web.
The lighter brown one is called Boris McGhee or Magee,
after a friend's nickname. They are usually considered the most
(27:11):
venomous spider in the world. The dark one is an
adult female named big Butt who laid an egg sack.
One hundred and one babies came out. Maybe I could
make a stylish coat out of these puppies spiders. There's
only eighteen babies left now. They ate each other. Frowny face,
(27:33):
brownie face. If any of these spiders bit me, I
would have to rush to the hospital and ask for
some anti venom quickly. Next photo the Australian redback spider.
These are my favorite spiders and they're good pets in
the wild. They find a good place to sit up
and sit in their web all day and night waiting
for food, so they do well in a jar with
(27:53):
fabric on top. I can feed them once a month
and they're fine. They are very low maintenance pets. If
a red bit me, I'd probably be fine eventually, but
the bite site would sweat and cramp and I'd feel
nauseous for a few days. I could go to the hospital,
but they might just tell me to go home and
ride out the pain. They're a sister of the black widow.
(28:14):
Final picture the Australian garden or weaving spider. My partner
is working on them for his PhD, and they're so
a variable in color. The photo shows two females next
to each other who are green and red respectively. They're beautiful, Yes,
they are, they are? They are they really? They really are?
(28:34):
They were all so cute and or mildly upsetting and yes, yes,
and Kate continues, yes, yes, Also, I just listen to
this Pistacio episode, and I agree with your assessment that
wasp are jerks. There are lots of native wasp here
(28:54):
in Australia that leave you alone if you leave them alone.
They just want to lay eggs um in a caterpillar
in peace. But we have European wash here that are
real wankers. My unofficial catchphrase is ants are the worst,
and wasps are basically flying ants. Spiders are much nicer.
I picked them up all the time, and I've never
(29:15):
been bitten. On the topic of spiders and wasp and cats,
my cats. At least you should do an intomo fag
episode eating bugs as great and Westerners suck for dissing it.
I have cricket powder, I can put in stuff like
pancakes to increase the protein content. And green ant gin
has actual green tree ants in the bottom of the bottle.
It's so good. Well, I agree, I want to do
(29:38):
an episode on that for sure. Oh yeah, yeah, it's right.
It's it's such a good source of protein and they're
so crunchy, and like that's protein and crunchy are two
things that that we Westerners love. So I don't understand.
I don't understand what the problem is other than the
you know, psychological issue. Yeah, yeah, I had to. I
(30:00):
have some good fried spiders. I hope that it doesn't
make you mad when I would China. Yeah, crunchy delicious. Um. Also, yes,
the pictures were cute. Um. And I love the spider
conference idea. I love it so much. I if you go,
you've got to send as another follow up. Yes, yes, oh,
(30:28):
I jokingly said I would show up in a spider
Man outfit and then I would be laughed outside the
conference rightfully, so um, but I find this very exciting
and very interesting, and the pictures were great. Yes, yes, absolutely,
Oh goodness, thank you, um, Devin wrote, I had to
(30:48):
stop midway through the aluminum foil episode to write in.
I was giggling to myself when Lauren was talking about
how one side of aluminum foil is more reflective than
the other, and I nearly lost it when she said
something about needing equipment to notice the difference, and well,
I may have found the only place where it matters.
I've written him before, talking about how my PhD research
in aerosol chemistry has related to some other topics, how
(31:12):
I can't stand the smell of rosemary anymore because of
the chemicals I use in lab. And here's another place.
About a year ago, my boss and I decided to
do some photochemical aging of the atmospheric aerosols I study.
So I needed to revamp our reactor to reflect our
sunlight lamp light so it would reach all points of
the reactor equally well. After some searching, I discovered that
(31:33):
aluminum was the best reflector for the specific wavelength of
light we were using, but buying polished aluminum was insanely
expensive and would require a ton of work. That's when
I decided to look up the purity of aluminum foil
and discovered, like you mentioned, it was actually pretty high.
A long story short, I ended up covering the panels
of our reactor with aluminum foil as if it were wallpaper,
(31:55):
and had a brief meltdown halfway through when I realized
I was gluing them dull side up. All in all,
it really didn't take too long and was beautifully reflective,
so I was pretty excited. That excitement ended when we
realized that there was too much background contamination to do
the experiments we imagined, so we scrapped the photochemistry altogether.
(32:15):
I'm still keeping the foil up though, because I was
very proud of myself for coming up with this unconventional idea.
I'll attach a picture of the final product too. Anyways,
thank you both for a wonderful show and providing me
company while in the lab. I really appreciate all of
the puns, personal stories, and most importantly, all of the
hard work you put into the show. Thank you. Oh
(32:36):
my goodness, that is that? That is amazing. That's so cool? Uh?
That is I mean kudo? See you excellent creative solution.
The picture looked awesome. Yeah, wow, you listeners are doing
the coolest stuff. I write. We just love hearing from
(32:56):
you and what you're doing. And I, oh, my goodness,
I love hearing about this. I don't really know what
it means, but I love it. Yeah, that's all all.
Y'all who do who have like actual science jobs and science?
It always blows my mind. It's so cool. Mm hmmm
mm hmmm. Yes, well, thanks to both of those listeners
(33:20):
who are writing in. We would love to hear from
all of you. Listeners. You can email us at hello
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(33:42):
Thanks as always to our superproducers Dylan Fagan and Andrew Howard.
Thanks to you for listening, and we hope that lots
of pr good things are coming your way
Hello, and welcome to Savor production of I Heart Radio.
I'm Annie Reese and I'm Lauren voc Obama, and today
we have an episode for you about mozzarella. Yes, the cheese.
We love cheese here, it's Saber, Yes, And we were
just discussing how much we in America love cheese and
particularly mozzarella. Yeah. Yeah, I don't think I realized, all right,
(00:33):
Maybe I just never thought about how much of an
like an American phenomenon mozzarella cheese is. Yeah. Yeah, we
we definitely love it here, and I feel like I
go through phases with it. Um, I really love it,
but it's kind of like not if I'm going to
(00:53):
get a cheese, it's not the cheese I'm gonna get. Um,
when I was a kid, I really love the mozzarella
string cheese, these which I know people have opinions on,
I understand. And fresh matzarella can be like divine. Oh yeah,
so lovely, so lovely. Yes, And I love a good
caprase salad. Yeah, oh my gosh. I actually after we
(01:17):
did this, I did the research for this, I got
the stuff to make one, and it's like not the
time to make one at all. But I'm going to
have one. Um, oh no, that's that's why this was.
I mean, I don't know, like, yeah, this was a
very serious craving episode. I was like, oh no. The
more I started thinking about it, the more I was
just like, I absolutely need a capraise and a pizza. Yes, yes,
(01:38):
because as I said yes in the pizza episode, Margharita
pizza A good margharitea pizza well done, Margarita pizza is
my favorite's the best, so simple, so perfect. Yes, And
I was thinking about this too. Um, Like fried mazzarella
sticks when I was a kid, I loved those share
the best. I still love them. There are there are
(02:00):
a few bars around Atlanta that I mean, like, I'm
not sure if a mozzarella stick is ever like good, right,
but there's something just so like greasy and wonderful about them,
and it's just like, yes, I believe we used to
there was a bar we used to go to after
work and we would get some sometimes and it was delightful,
(02:21):
warm and just perfect perfect. You can see our past
cheese episodes, because yes, we do love cheese, and we
tried to do one an episode on cheese fairly regularly.
Yeah ish ish um, I every time, we every every time,
(02:41):
I'm like, yeah, let's do another cheese. I go through
like seven that we've already done, having forgotten that we've
already done them, and then finally hit on one, like
I didn't even check and see if we've done mozzarella
because I was so convinced to we have done mozzarella.
But here we are, so here we are, and we've
got a lot of ground of her. It's great. Yes,
(03:03):
And you can also see the mentioned aforementioned pizza episode
because we do talk about it a little bit there.
But I guess this brings us to our question mozzarella.
What is it? Well, uh, Mazzarella is a type of fresh, soft,
unaged cheese that you you make by by working. It's
(03:24):
sort of like a dough until it's stretchy and stringy
and rich and salty. Um. And those stretchy, stringy properties
aren't so obvious when you eat it chilled and moist um,
it'll be springy but pretty tender. However, those properties really
ramp up when you heat the cheese or dry it
out a little bit. Um. It's like a It's like
(03:46):
if Nickelodeon made of cheese in and like the nicest
way possible. Um, I love it. It's like it's like
a cheese that really admires taffy. Mm hmm, yeah, I
(04:09):
can see that. I feel like I'm I feel like
I'm not making it sound nearly as delicious as it is,
which is very delicious, Yes, very delicious. Um. You can
make mazzarella from different kinds of milk, but um, but
water buffalo is the most traditional and cow is now
the most common. And okay, so, stretched fresh cheeses are
(04:33):
a category called an Italian pasta falada um. So let
us talk about the science of stretch. But first we
need to do another cheese. One oh one, oh yes, okay.
So to make cheese, you start write with milk um,
which is an emulsion, a stable blend of little globs
(04:56):
of fats and stuff spread pretty evenly throughout water and stuff.
It's stable because of these proteins in milk called caseines
that are pretty complex. They have parts that are hydrophilic
or like water, in parts that are lipophilic or like fat,
and so when presented with both water and fat, the
caseines will grab up bits of fat and cluster um
(05:19):
cluster into globules called my cells with the fats hoarded
up on the inside and and the water loving hydrophilic
bits on the outside. And these my cells are negatively
charged particles, which means that they repel each other. So
if you give them a neutral base of water to
float around in, they will disperse themselves evenly throughout, creating
(05:40):
an emulsion. Okay, So to make liquid milk into solid cheese,
you need to de emulsify it a k A. Coagulate
it by mucking around with those my cells, which you
can do in a few ways, um, but like a
really solid one um No. Pun intended is to neutralize
the my cell's charge so that they stopped repelling each other,
(06:01):
which you can do by adding something acidic to the mix.
Acid neutralizes them my cells and they start clumping together.
You can also add enzymes like rennett that help break
apart the casein proteins that make up the outer walls
of the my cells, which serves to uh to to
help clump the proteins and fats together. Those clumps are
(06:24):
your cheese cards, um. And the water and stuff that
they separate up from is the way and how you
handle the curds next or this whole time. Really, um
is going to determine what kind of cheese you wind
up with. If you add too much acid, you're going
to wind up with a crumbly cheese. UM. For for
for melty, stretchy mozzarella, you want a relatively um high
(06:49):
pH like like not too acidic like usually very specifically
in the load to mid fives, depending on a number
of variables that are too too many are ables to
get into here. Um. But this is like justicific enough
to dissolve some of the calcium phosphate in the caseine proteins,
(07:09):
which lets them hydrate more, which keeps them flexible. I'm
summarizing a great deal right now. I read. I read
so much science about mozzrela cheese. You guys, they're like
certain episodes where I think I've said this before, but
our research process can be just so different what I'm
(07:31):
researching versus what you're researching. And sometimes I'll just be like, oh, Laura,
oh no, Yeah, I was saying to Annie before we
started this one. I was saying, like, I like, I knew,
I know every time we do a cheese episode it's
going to be science heavy, but like I didn't realize
how science heavy like I did not realize the depths
(07:54):
of like thermo mechanical research that have been done into
lots a rella cheese. I maintain it's pizza based. It's
our love of pizza and stuff in cheese and every
orifice we can find pizza. No, I mean, I mean
(08:14):
for for serious, like it's it's between cheese sticks and
um and and pizza and all of these other products
that we make. Like yeah, it's okay. So anyway, anyway,
we've we've got some nice We've got some nice hydrated
caseine proteins is what we have, Okay, okay, And for mozzarella,
(08:36):
you you also want to continue mucking around with those
caseine proteins in the curd um, encouraging them to form
up into these long, flexible parallel chains. So what you
do is you heat the curd in salted water, and
every so often you take it out and you stretch
(08:57):
it over and over again in a single direction, which
will line up chain up and line up the protein
strands and trap fats and waters in among the strands
um and these tiny tiny thread like pockets or channels.
And this is different from the structure of something like
a like a cheddar, which is like an even web
(09:18):
of proteins and fats, and a lower moisture content. The
finished mazzarella will be white or maybe a little bit
yellow in color, depending on the diet of the cow
um or water buffalo in question. And yeah, stringy and
melty and stretchy and a little salty um. And it
will be packaged in water or brine to keep it
soft and moist um. And I'm sorry they keep saying
(09:41):
the word moist monster, but it is like a really
high moisture content. It's like it's like between forty eight
and moisture content, which is high. Um. So uh. To
make string cheese, you keep stretching the moths um and
let it dry out a little bit until it's write
like a firm fibrous stick. Firm fibrous stick. Um. And yeah,
(10:11):
fresh mozzarella can be served chilled room temperature and salads
or sandwiches or pastas. It can be baked into casseroles.
It can be melted into sandwiches or on top of
pizza or on top of more other pastas. Yeah, yeah,
I want to do all of those right now too. Well,
(10:36):
what about the nutrition? Mozarella is pretty good for you. Um.
It has a lot of protein and micronutrients. It can
be high in fats and salts um, depending on what
kind of milk it's made from. Buffalo milk is fattier
than cow milk. Uh. There's also a lot of science
and research going into how to um make manufactured monts
(11:00):
arella products that are less fatty and less salty. UM.
So I mean obviously coating them in bread crumbs and
deep frying them is going to make them less healthy. Um.
(11:20):
With any cheese, I would say, watch your portion sizes. UM.
Usually a serving of cheese. And I know this horrifies
you Annie every time I say it is about an ounce,
which is not a lot of cheese. Um. Oh, but
but treats are nice. It's okay to have treats. And
also yeah, like I mean, like you're still getting protein.
(11:41):
I'd like eat a vegetable. It's good. Yeah. I'm excited
about mica crazy yeah yeah. Um, we do have some
numbers for you a couple um. Alright, So, the mozzarella
global market is worth around thirty seven point three billion
(12:04):
dollars UM as of this year, and is expected to
grow over the next few years. UM. The US is
the largest consumer of of mozzarella, accounting for about a
quarter of the global market. Um. Nobody else even comes close.
I don't think. Um. And uh. Separately from that, though,
(12:25):
about a quarter of the market is packaged shredded mozzarella.
What what I mean? I guess it makes sense in
terms of like, especially like in the restaurant industry or something. Yeah,
like if you're just buying, I don't know. I think
(12:46):
a lot of cast rules call for it. Or if
you're making pizza at home and you don't want to
shred your own and you want that low, lower moisture content, UM,
so that you're not like steaming your dough in the oven. UM.
I don't know anyway. Um. The official Guinness record for
the longest mazzarella was won by a tourism group for Avellino,
(13:08):
Italy in um. It measured a hundred and six meters
and sixteen long. That's uh, three hundred and forty eight
feet four inches. That's a long mazzarella. UM. The unofficial
record for the longest string cheese was set in Wisconsin,
(13:28):
and it was three thousand, eight hundred and thirty two
ft long. Oh my gosh, oh um and uh. In
order to make it, uh, they lined up some like
one thousand, seven hundred local residents through this town like
like through like like three city blocks and and like
(13:51):
handed them like they all like passed the string cheese
out to one another and then like a doubled back.
It was the equivalent of some thirty thousand cheese sticks.
What what Oh my gosh, I'm just imagining if fiasco
(14:15):
were like somebody chipped and foul and just like a
domino factor in cheese hits the ground, so cheese. Not
to take away from this accomplishment, no cheese accomplishments and records,
this was recent, I mean ongoing, not giving up in
this arena. Wow, all right, but this did not happen
(14:42):
in a vacuum. Um. There's a lot of history that
had to occur to take us to this nearly four
thousand foot long cheese stick. Indeed, and we will get
into that history after we take a quick break for
a word from our sponsor, and we're back. Thank you sponsor, Yes,
(15:08):
thank you so yes. You can see our past episodes
on the cheeses that we've done already. UM and yogurt
I think relevant. Um that has more of the history
of cheese in general. But the basic story is that
someone are someone's because this probably happens somewhat accidentally all
over the place. Was traveling via animal transport or some
(15:31):
kind of transport with milk in a bag probably made
of animal stomach or skin, and the josceling plus the
temperature plus the time created cheese in this bag containing milk. Yes,
all right, and this is a separate episode. But briefly,
the water buffalo, which yes, has been the longtime main
(15:52):
milk supplier for mozzarella or especially traditional mozzarella, is thousands
of years old and was perhaps used as farm livestock
in Asia five thousand years ago. Historians argue over when
and how they were introduced to Italy, where mozzarella is
believed to have been refined. Um. Did Hannibal bring them
(16:13):
when he invaded Rome? Did the Crusaders bring them back
from the Middle East and six CE? Or perhaps the
Normans brought them from Sicily in one thousand CEM I
don't know. These are the questions though. Uh. They were
very valuable livestock. They were prized for their strength and
ability to cross marshland without sinking. Um and by the
(16:35):
twelfth century CE people in Italy were using them for
their milk. We're going to talk more about that in
a second, Okay, but all right, mozzarella. Just like so
many cheeses, the history of this one is incredibly fuzzy
and bursting with fun but unverified origin stories. Um. One
(16:57):
of the most popular ones detailing how and the Politan
cheesemaker in Italy accidentally dropped fresh cheese curds into a
bucket of hot water. Hoping to salvage something from the situation.
The cheesemaker stuck their hands into the water and found
that the cheese was malleable and stringy. The cheesemaker molded
and stretched the cheese until it was a unified mass
(17:19):
and pulled it from the water. Uh. And yeah. Some
sources even credit this whole again un verified incident with
the invention of pasta filada, which you mentioned earlier, Laura,
and the method of cheesemaking that involved needing and stretching
curds until they came together to form this ball of cheese. Um.
(17:40):
I mean, yeah, that's fun, possible, sure, Oh, mystery's history.
Many historians actually posit that ancient Romans were making an
early version of mozzarella using sheep's milk. Um, but yes.
It's generally believed that by the twelfth century, cheese making
using buffalo milk was in practice. Some stories go that
(18:03):
monks at the San Lorenzo monastery in a region of
southern Italy handed out something called mazza or m o
z z a. I'm assuming it's pronounced manza, but I
hope so. Um. They would hand this out to worshippers
when they completed their yearly pilgrimages. A couple of centuries later,
um mozza that could survive the travel was being sold
(18:24):
at markets in Naples and Solerno. By the mid eighteenth century,
water buffalo mozzarella was common throughout southern Italy. The word
mazzarella came into use in the sixteenth century, according to
some sources, though Meriam Webster puts it at nineteen eleven.
That would be when the word was in print in English.
Um so in Italian right, it could have been much earlier, Yes,
(18:48):
and to that point. Others argue the term was first
used in the fifteen seventy cookbook by Bartolomeo scapi Um.
The bourbons of the King of Two Sicilies frequently are
credited with significantly bolstering the breeding of water buffaloes during
the eighteenth century in southwestern Italy. So, um, basically a
lot going on. Chese was getting popular. I tried to
(19:11):
find this recipe in the book, because you can find
this person's scoffies cookbook online. I couldn't. I couldn't find
the actual thing. I believe it's in there. Um, it
was just not easy to search. And it's quite a yeah,
right right, but it's it seems like people were probably yeah,
they were using it for sure, alright. So, the large
(19:34):
wave of Italian immigrants that arrived in the US in
the early twentieth century carried with them their traditions around
handmade fresh mozzarella, making a few changes to adapt to
what was available, which is the story we've heard and
told a lot on this podcast. Um traditional Neapolitan water
buffalo milk was switched out for easier to obtain cow's milk.
(19:56):
Many of these immigrants arrived via Ellis Island in New
York and and he stayed in and around that area.
But over generations, Italian immigrants migrated and settled all across
the country, introducing mozzarella to their communities is kind of
a similar story we talked about with pizza other things
like that. Another thing that helped popularize mozzarella in Europe
(20:16):
and the US was the advent of refrigeration, allowing it
to be transported over longer distances. Meanwhile, uh, this could
be its own confusing episode. But mozzarellas sticks may have
been invented in the early seventies in Wisconsin by a
cheesemaker who was looking to offer like individual sized units
of cheese for for snacking to his customers. And it
(20:40):
seems that deep fried mozzarella sticks were developed a little
bit later in the seventies UM, during what is sometimes
referred to as the friar revolution. UM. This new technology
this could also be its whole, whole other episode. But
this new technology was making friars cheap and efficient and
convenient and a little bit less terrifying. Um. And so
(21:03):
that's when you got the proliferation of deep friars and uh,
lots of fast food joints and also um lots of
like pubs and bowling alleys and stuff like that. And
so you got deep fried snacks everywhere, Yes, yes, And
I tell you you see fried cheese on the menu.
You're having a good night, you want fried cheese. I
(21:26):
can imagine how exciting it would be when it was
first becoming more popular. All right, you're like, wait a minute,
you fried the cheese. I must have this now, please.
In the Consortium for the Protection of Campania Buffalo Mozzarella
was created with the goal of protecting, enhancing, and supervising
(21:48):
this cheese and its traditions. It is the only organization
accepted by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry recognizing
this cheese and Central and Southern Italy. Um. I know,
we gotta watch out for this cheese there. Hold on,
they're frying it over there in America. Um um uh
(22:13):
and yeah. Skipping ahead to you know, like like right
now ish and or the past decade or so, um,
there has been all kinds of research into how mozzarella
can be mass produced with less fat and salt to
help make a healthier product for our snacks. Mhm. Cheese
research ongoing. Oh yeah, I'm sure find out how to
(22:38):
make it melt here, because I know that's a big
issue with the shredded mozarella, as it doesn't melt as well.
Right well, yeah, yeah, that um. The anytime that you
muck around with the fat and the salt content, you're
also mucking around with the water content and um water
and the way that it's um in those kind of
channels through those those fibers of protein um. All. All
(23:02):
of that has to do with how it cheese melts
or doesn't melt and turns into a weird sticky mess
um and and so yeah, so like when you try
to do the one thing um, compensating by I don't know,
like adding different emulsifying salts or um as we've talked
about in our American Cheese episode, Yeah, like or like nachos,
(23:26):
I think in our nacho episode Yeah, um, stuff like
stuff like that, or mucking around with the pH level
or all of these other things can be done to
try to balance out, uh, what you're doing. Yeah yeah
um and I it's one of the things I'll see
in recipes a lot where it's like, don't get this
(23:47):
one type of cheese because they will never melt correctly.
So I know it's on people's minds. Yeah, of course,
there's like nothing more disappointing than like you have you
have that like that, like pizza commercial, pizza in your
head and with like with like the stretch that goes
like an arm length nest, and then you get something
that just kind of like crumbles and you're like, oh, no, oh,
(24:11):
that's not what I wanted. No, but that brings up
another point of the cheese that won't like if any
you're like stuck in this position of just continuously eating cheese,
which is fine if you're alone, but sometimes when you
are around other people, Yeah, not ideal, Yeah it can be,
it can be a little bit embarrassing. But if cheese
(24:32):
is waiting for me, then yeah, happily, whether the embarrassment absolutely,
I'm like, well, y'all are going to have to get
over this because it's delicious, it's happening, and I'm I'm
happy about it for you. Yes, well, I'm always happy
when we get to talk about cheese. Me too happy
(24:53):
and in a little a little worn out. Fair, fair enough,
But I think that's what we have to say about
Mozzarella Phone. Now it is. We do have some listener
mail for you, but first we've got one more quick
break for a word from our sponsors, and we're back.
(25:18):
Thank you, sponsor, Yes, thank you, And we're back with
Snore that was very silly. Thank you. I will take
that as a compliment, which is I believe it wasn't. Oh,
(25:41):
and this is exciting. We have a follow up email
from Kate who we read Kate's email. Previous email a
couple episodes ago, maybe the last episode, but recently. Um,
and it was about spiders, and Kate offered to send
us pictures and we were very excited about it. And
eight sent spider pictures with descriptions. Oh really really cool,
(26:08):
like best know every email is the best email. I'm sorry, um,
but best spider related email I've ever gotten on a
food podcast. Yes, I love it. I love it so much.
All right, Kate wrote about my spider first, Ah, your
spider friend sounds like a black house spider. Well that's
(26:30):
what I would say if you were in Australia. But
I have no idea about American species. I might be
going to California in July for a spider conference with
my boyfriend, so I shall learn all about them then,
so cool. Attached are some photos of all my little
or big spidies. First picture. We named her stand will
(26:50):
Amina because it sounds like the genus name. She is
a Melbourne chapter spider who burrows in the ground and
doesn't come out much. My friend saved her while they
were doing house renovations. The next picture Sydney funnel web.
The lighter brown one is called Boris McGhee or Magee,
after a friend's nickname. They are usually considered the most
(27:11):
venomous spider in the world. The dark one is an
adult female named big Butt who laid an egg sack.
One hundred and one babies came out. Maybe I could
make a stylish coat out of these puppies spiders. There's
only eighteen babies left now. They ate each other. Frowny face,
(27:33):
brownie face. If any of these spiders bit me, I
would have to rush to the hospital and ask for
some anti venom quickly. Next photo the Australian redback spider.
These are my favorite spiders and they're good pets in
the wild. They find a good place to sit up
and sit in their web all day and night waiting
for food, so they do well in a jar with
(27:53):
fabric on top. I can feed them once a month
and they're fine. They are very low maintenance pets. If
a red bit me, I'd probably be fine eventually, but
the bite site would sweat and cramp and I'd feel
nauseous for a few days. I could go to the hospital,
but they might just tell me to go home and
ride out the pain. They're a sister of the black widow.
(28:14):
Final picture the Australian garden or weaving spider. My partner
is working on them for his PhD, and they're so
a variable in color. The photo shows two females next
to each other who are green and red respectively. They're beautiful, Yes,
they are, they are? They are they really? They really are?
(28:34):
They were all so cute and or mildly upsetting and yes, yes,
and Kate continues, yes, yes, Also, I just listen to
this Pistacio episode, and I agree with your assessment that
wasp are jerks. There are lots of native wasp here
(28:54):
in Australia that leave you alone if you leave them alone.
They just want to lay eggs um in a caterpillar
in peace. But we have European wash here that are
real wankers. My unofficial catchphrase is ants are the worst,
and wasps are basically flying ants. Spiders are much nicer.
I picked them up all the time, and I've never
(29:15):
been bitten. On the topic of spiders and wasp and cats,
my cats. At least you should do an intomo fag
episode eating bugs as great and Westerners suck for dissing it.
I have cricket powder, I can put in stuff like
pancakes to increase the protein content. And green ant gin
has actual green tree ants in the bottom of the bottle.
It's so good. Well, I agree, I want to do
(29:38):
an episode on that for sure. Oh yeah, yeah, it's right.
It's it's such a good source of protein and they're
so crunchy, and like that's protein and crunchy are two
things that that we Westerners love. So I don't understand.
I don't understand what the problem is other than the
you know, psychological issue. Yeah, yeah, I had to. I
(30:00):
have some good fried spiders. I hope that it doesn't
make you mad when I would China. Yeah, crunchy delicious. Um. Also, yes,
the pictures were cute. Um. And I love the spider
conference idea. I love it so much. I if you go,
you've got to send as another follow up. Yes, yes, oh,
(30:28):
I jokingly said I would show up in a spider
Man outfit and then I would be laughed outside the
conference rightfully, so um, but I find this very exciting
and very interesting, and the pictures were great. Yes, yes, absolutely,
Oh goodness, thank you, um, Devin wrote, I had to
(30:48):
stop midway through the aluminum foil episode to write in.
I was giggling to myself when Lauren was talking about
how one side of aluminum foil is more reflective than
the other, and I nearly lost it when she said
something about needing equipment to notice the difference, and well,
I may have found the only place where it matters.
I've written him before, talking about how my PhD research
in aerosol chemistry has related to some other topics, how
(31:12):
I can't stand the smell of rosemary anymore because of
the chemicals I use in lab. And here's another place.
About a year ago, my boss and I decided to
do some photochemical aging of the atmospheric aerosols I study.
So I needed to revamp our reactor to reflect our
sunlight lamp light so it would reach all points of
the reactor equally well. After some searching, I discovered that
(31:33):
aluminum was the best reflector for the specific wavelength of
light we were using, but buying polished aluminum was insanely
expensive and would require a ton of work. That's when
I decided to look up the purity of aluminum foil
and discovered, like you mentioned, it was actually pretty high.
A long story short, I ended up covering the panels
of our reactor with aluminum foil as if it were wallpaper,
(31:55):
and had a brief meltdown halfway through when I realized
I was gluing them dull side up. All in all,
it really didn't take too long and was beautifully reflective,
so I was pretty excited. That excitement ended when we
realized that there was too much background contamination to do
the experiments we imagined, so we scrapped the photochemistry altogether.
(32:15):
I'm still keeping the foil up though, because I was
very proud of myself for coming up with this unconventional idea.
I'll attach a picture of the final product too. Anyways,
thank you both for a wonderful show and providing me
company while in the lab. I really appreciate all of
the puns, personal stories, and most importantly, all of the
hard work you put into the show. Thank you. Oh
(32:36):
my goodness, that is that? That is amazing. That's so cool? Uh?
That is I mean kudo? See you excellent creative solution.
The picture looked awesome. Yeah, wow, you listeners are doing
the coolest stuff. I write. We just love hearing from
(32:56):
you and what you're doing. And I, oh, my goodness,
I love hearing about this. I don't really know what
it means, but I love it. Yeah, that's all all.
Y'all who do who have like actual science jobs and science?
It always blows my mind. It's so cool. Mm hmmm
mm hmmm. Yes, well, thanks to both of those listeners
(33:20):
who are writing in. We would love to hear from
all of you. Listeners. You can email us at hello
at saborpod dot com. We're also on social media. You
can find us on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook at saver pod,
and we do hope to hear from you. Savor is
production of my Heart Radio. For more podcasts to my
Heart Radio, you can visit the I Heart Radio app,
Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.
(33:42):
Thanks as always to our superproducers Dylan Fagan and Andrew Howard.
Thanks to you for listening, and we hope that lots
of pr good things are coming your way
Savor News
Hosts And Creators
Anney Reese
Lauren Vogelbaum
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