If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to catch a perfect wave at J Bay or get barreled in the Mentawais and see it exactly from the perspective of the surfer and know all the things that were going through @dylanlightfoot’s mind from a technique perspective than you need to check out this podcast. We break down several of his waves in detail that he caught using a special camera rig developed with @chrisrogers using @gopro cameras. Our conversation ranged from assessing the right maneuver, bottom turn technique, backfoot positioning for turns vs barrels, where to place your turn on the wave, managing speed, board selection for points vs small beachbreaks, what an advances surfer focuses on, gamechangers on your backhand, and all the fine points of barrel riding technique.
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Chapters:
00:00 Introduction and Excitement for J Bay
02:00 The Perfect Wave at J Bay
03:10 Analyzing GoPro Footage
04:22 Techniques for Bottom Turns
05:22 Weight Distribution and Foot Placement
06:44 Decision-Making Process for Maneuvers
08:28 Snap and Timing
09:54 Enjoying the Flow and Connection with the Wave
11:02 Backhand Surfing and Adjustments
13:05 Managing Speed and Positioning on the Wave
14:09 Snap and Timing
15:24 Self-Critique and Improvement
17:44 Choosing the Right Board for J Bay
20:34 Focus on Flow and Execution
24:38 Transition from Perfect Waves to Small Beach Breaks
28:54 Adapting to Small Beach Breaks
31:54 Improving Backside Surfing
36:37 Competing at J Bay and Surfing Against Heroes
38:54 Dealing with Nervousness and Pressure
43:48 Surfing a Bomb Barrel
46:37 Reading the Wave and Adjusting Speed
50:57 Navigating the Chandelier Section
53:16 Commitment in Barrel Riding
54:15 Scoring a Left Barrel
56:12 Technique for Backhand Barrel Riding
57:41 Managing Speed on the Backhand
58:38 Advantages of Backhand Barrel Riding
59:09 The Appeal of Mentawai Islands
59:37 Closing Remarks
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